Wrong oil in MB

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Well I picked up my panzer from Good Year tire shop hour ago where I used to work long time ago. It was suppose to get tires rebalanced (New Hankook Optimo h727) since vibrations got worse after left front toe end assembly replacement( it was bent and boot was torn) and alignment at local MB dealer.
And also chassis lubrication.
So when I got there GM was like " all done, we re-balanced it,lubricated chassis and changed your oil with synthetic".
I said that I didn't request any oil change and that they don't have right oil anyway.
He apologized and told that I can bring right oil and they can change it if I want to.
Anyway It got SynPower 5w-30 by GMs words or 10w-30 by papers.
I wonder how how long should I keep it there? I'm almost sure it will be fine. Manual allows GC 0w-30 and similar oils.
Previous oil was Lubro Moly Top Tec 4100 5w-40 and LubeGuard engine protector added about month and half ago. FSS was showing that I have 5300 miles left out of 10k. It had 6545 real miles on it with 3000 miles from summer trips across US mostly HWY. I was going to dump it in June-July( 1 Year) regardless of miles.
Oil filter they used probably is Carquest brand, which seems to be good quality (http://www.carquest.com/webapp/wcs/store...7240?acesApp=1#)
So what would you guys say go by FSS/1 Year, or dump it earlier?
Car will not be driven much and will be short tripper till mid summer for sure, so thinner oil should be better for that purpose.
Pressure gauge seems to jump little more around when idling, than with 5w-40 oil. It is around 2 Bar reading when oil is hot, lowest 1.5. And it instantly goes to 3 Bar when you press pedal. So not much difference yet.
 
That SynPower's HT/HS viscosity is probably lower than what the MB spec calls for (3.5 cP minimum), but if you're not going to be pushing the car hard, it'll probably be OK until you change it in June.

I hate when shops go ahead and perform some maintenance work without you asking, and then they get all upset when you complain about it because they thought they were doing you a favor and you don't appreciate it.
frown.gif
 
I personally wouldn't keep Valvoline anything in my engine for a year.

Considering this product doesn't meet spec I'd dump it within 3000 miles.
 
Originally Posted By: FowVay
I personally wouldn't keep Valvoline anything in my engine for a year.

Considering this product doesn't meet spec I'd dump it within 3000 miles.


+1
 
Originally Posted By: MBS500
Well I picked up my panzer from Good Year tire shop hour ago where I used to work long time ago. It was suppose to get tires rebalanced (New Hankook Optimo h727) since vibrations got worse after left front toe end assembly replacement( it was bent and boot was torn) and alignment at local MB dealer.
And also chassis lubrication.
So when I got there GM was like " all done, we re-balanced it,lubricated chassis and changed your oil with synthetic".
I said that I didn't request any oil change and that they don't have right oil anyway.
He apologized and told that I can bring right oil and they can change it if I want to.
Anyway It got SynPower 5w-30 by GMs words or 10w-30 by papers.
I wonder how how long should I keep it there? I'm almost sure it will be fine. Manual allows GC 0w-30 and similar oils.
Previous oil was Lubro Moly Top Tec 4100 5w-40 and LubeGuard engine protector added about month and half ago. FSS was showing that I have 5300 miles left out of 10k. It had 6545 real miles on it with 3000 miles from summer trips across US mostly HWY. I was going to dump it in June-July( 1 Year) regardless of miles.
Oil filter they used probably is Carquest brand, which seems to be good quality (http://www.carquest.com/webapp/wcs/store...7240?acesApp=1#)
So what would you guys say go by FSS/1 Year, or dump it earlier?
Car will not be driven much and will be short tripper till mid summer for sure, so thinner oil should be better for that purpose.
Pressure gauge seems to jump little more around when idling, than with 5w-40 oil. It is around 2 Bar reading when oil is hot, lowest 1.5. And it instantly goes to 3 Bar when you press pedal. So not much difference yet.



The new oil will be fine if you don't use too long an OCI, but I would check with a good MB forum and look up the German MB guides or oil finders to check which oil to use. 99% sure it should be a 5/40.
It's worth paying extra for a real MB oil filter, or at least a Mann (Stamped made in Germany only) or Bosch one and adding a snake oil to LM Top Tec is not a good idea as it already has a very good add pack. If your engine needs more Zinc or something special then try a Castrol, Mobil or Shell classic car oil.
If the MB forums or guides do list a Zinc additive or something special and you can't find a major brand oil to suite, then contact Liqui Moly directly as they will know which additive is the best for their own oil.
 
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The question is why do YOU have to bring the right oil? You didn't request an oil change.

Of course, I wouldn't trust them to actually get the right oil, so I'd just bring them the receipt for the right oil and ask for a percentage based on MB's service interval. I.E if the oil in the car had 50% life remaining, they would pay 50% of the oil and filter.
 
For a short run in any weather, the Synpower will be fine.
Unless you ship the car to Europe and find a long road without any speed limit and drive the car accordingly, the oil will be just fine.
5-6K?
No worries.
To the extent of the car's MM?
No!!
 
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
For a short run in any weather, the Synpower will be fine.
Unless you ship the car to Europe and find a long road without any speed limit and drive the car accordingly, the oil will be just fine.
5-6K?
No worries.
To the extent of the car's MM?
No!!


This
 
Yes as others have said you'll be fine, besides as far as the oil's viscosity is concerned you've got an OP gauge to tell you if it gets too light when the oil is fully hot. So far you've noticed that the OP seems higher than normal when cold so they likely did use 10W-30.
 
I Have plenty of right oil and filter too, that's not a problem. I'm not gonna push on them to pay for the right oil, I always get diiscounts ot don't/didn't pay for some services or labor. For example lubricating chassis today.
Pressure gauge--I was wathing hot idle, cold pressure is always 3 Bars.
So I guess I will leave it till 5k on FSS(and see how it goes, do UOA, since I also have plenty of 10w-30 oils too, mostly PP and Synpower) or if pressure will drop more during summer.
 
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That's [censored] good oil. You will be fine...don't believe the negative hype. I'd run that for minimum 6k miles. People obsess to much on brand and weight. I'm yet to see an engine go south over an oil or weight of oil personally, and been around the motorcycle racing world a long time. I've seen plenty of engines go south, but definitely not due to oil.
 
Originally Posted By: BillyTheKid
That's [censored] good oil. You will be fine...don't believe the negative hype. I'd run that for minimum 6k miles. People obsess to much on brand and weight. I'm yet to see an engine go south over an oil or weight of oil personally, and been around the motorcycle racing world a long time. I've seen plenty of engines go south, but definitely not due to oil.

I was thinking that too, I mean It is 8.5-9.0 qt sump, why it can't go more than 5000k even on TBN loosing Valvoline?
I Understand small high reving turbo engine, evendough my buddies pimped out 1.8t GTI that pushes lots of horses is still alive, and it used Valvoline frome same shop for most of it's life(100k miles out of 145K). And still alive, I'm sure it is sludged up to some point, it uses oil, but it was floored every single day and most ocis were 10k.
 
Originally Posted By: MBS500
Just saw UOA on one of MB forums for exact same oil, but different MB engine:


That's a fairly nice UOA considering that it had 9330 miles on the oil.
thumbsup2.gif
 
Originally Posted By: MBS500
Just saw UOA on one of MB forums for exact same oil, but different MB engine:
139469d1221515740-oil-analysis-non-approved-valvoline-10w-30-synpower-oil-1-quart-oil-test.jpg



Interesting UOA, as it's another Moly free oil, the 5ppm would be a trace of some old oil or assembly lubes etc. The Zinc does seem a bit on the low side.
Valvoline have a fairly good reputation in Germany and they are 5th in sales terms just behind Shell.
 
Sounds like an honest mistake that's not worth the price the business relationship would pay. So I withdraw my question about them paying
smile.gif


You will probably be fine in 3-5K of typical US driving.

Originally Posted By: MBS500
I Have plenty of right oil and filter too, that's not a problem. I'm not gonna push on them to pay for the right oil, I always get diiscounts ot don't/didn't pay for some services or labor. For example lubricating chassis today.
Pressure gauge--I was wathing hot idle, cold pressure is always 3 Bars.
So I guess I will leave it till 5k on FSS(and see how it goes, do UOA, since I also have plenty of 10w-30 oils too, mostly PP and Synpower) or if pressure will drop more during summer.
 
Originally Posted By: dave1251
I would not worry unless you are making a long drive across Texas at 120MPH the entire time.
I wont, but may take it to Florida towards the end of summer.
 
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