2011 LML duramax oil

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Originally Posted By: CONMCK
Originally Posted By: durallymax



Being in Canada does have its perks. One of the reasons I'm still a GM fan. Customer service.

Ford immediately puts out all kinds of bulletins banning everything everywhere, GM does what it takes to keep people happy.


H&S isn't selling in the US for now.

Your mileage gains are much higher than most. Possibly due to the fact that when most people do all of the work and have the added power, they always use it.

The LML still isnt going to show the gains of the LMM due to it being tuned so much better, however its nice to see some improvement.


The transmission TAPs relearn can be done with many programs or at the dealer, it resets to default and relearns your driving and the power from the ground up smoothing out the shifts as it goes. The Full relearn is a Tech II only thing, but only needed after rebuilding or installing a rebuilt transmission as it allows the TCM to learn the clearances.


Glad to hear yours is doing so well.


H & S is not selling product in Canada at the moment either.
durallymax, are you a licensed diesel mechanic?? Curious what your experience and expertise is on the lml's. I may have a few questions to ask!



Not a licensed diesel mechanic for anyone. Justour farms mechanic/shop manager and the area duramax mechanic. I dont see the warranty stuff, however once the warranty is up i see a lot of them for the major things. Have enough regulars that bombard me with little things but always meet a few new guys every year who [censored] their pants when they see the dealer wanting 5k for injectors or 5-6k to do headgaskets or 4-5k for a trans.
I do performance work on many of them as well, its the best business to be in. Theybpay you to give it more power, then they bring it back to fix the broken stuff. Thats why I like to get a little to in depth explaining everything. Im not a good business man and cant screw someone over. Ive thought about the idea of starting a legit shop but dont want to as the farm stuff is still important.

Just been a dmax fan since the beginning, built mine up and broke it a lot and learned the hard way. Now itd been nearly 3 years since ive touched my truck which id now abpile of parts, no time with all of the other ones but they pay the bills.

Id be happy to try and answer any of your dmax questions. PM me if you want to avoif deraling the thread too much.
 
Originally Posted By: m37charlie
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
Originally Posted By: skyship
Important part I disagree with:
He may need a thinner lube; that would something that he can be the judge of, when it comes to starting ease. But it will NOT make any darn difference in wear.

I asked the senior geek in the ZF oil analysis lab out cold start wear, as I know him from visiting the R&D section every month and although they do mostly transmission fluid analysis, he did work for VW engine R&D before and is one of the leading bearing wear and oil analysis experts in Germany. His answer was based only on UOA results for VW diesels, so might not be applicable to truck engines.
The data file he quoted from was for a comparison of test rig data based UOA figures comparing a good quality 10/40 conventional with a full synthetic 0/40 doing multiple cold starts cycles with only 5 minute runs (The engine was in a freezer). The results were better with the 0/40 and when fed into a software program to figure out the TBO of a typical cars engine in central EU, it translated to a difference of just under 10%. BUT he would not comment on whether that was because one oil was synthetic and the other conventional or because one was an 0W. Both oils had the same Zinc and add pack contents, so it had to be one of the two factors. The only real conclusion I could get from him was based on his own old diesel van, as I asked him which oil he used and it was 15/40 in summer and 0/40 in winter.


Interesting, but not really easy for me to disect.
I do have some thoughts though:

1) whatever study this was, I really don't put much stock into it unless I can read it. I'm not saying you're wrong or being untruthful. I'm saying there is WAY too much left out to really understand the criteria of the German study. Plus, they often focus on models and lubes specific to their part of the world; perhaps not directly applicable to a Dmax in NA.
2) repeated cold starts with run times no more than 5 minuets? Several Q's here:
a) was the rig allowed to completely cool between starts?
b) was this a full engine, or just a sympathetic test rig?
c) what controls were in place?
d) what other characteristics were nullified as controllables?
e) the "results were better"? How defined? a 10% reduction in wear I presume? Over a period of what projected lifecycle? (IOW - if planned life is 400k miles, then would we expect 40k less miles of lifecycle? Should that matter to someone who only keeps a vehicle for 150k miles?) In essence, how does the projected lifecycle degredation compare/contrast to ROI?
f) Was there a manifestation of wear-rate shift tested at different OCI durations? (IOW - at what exposure duration was the test run at? Was it affected by OCI duration, if even tested at all as part of the DOE?) We know that nearly all lubes will be "better" when aged; so could the 10% difference be enhanced or diminished with shorter/longer OCIs? Many times these studies are run with "new" oils; that does NOT reflect a real world difference. As lubes age, the performance differential grealy shrinks; the perceived advantage of one lube over another reduces as they all beging to homogenize with OCI extensions.
g) does a 5 minute run time really reflect real world experiences for most of us? I understand that it might be significant to the study, but how many of us have this experience as the "normal" operational pattern for our engines?

Get the point? I'm not saying you're wrong, but I have a lot of questions about what the DOE was, how the test was set up and controlled, etc.



Here's my point to you, and to Charlie:
the real world application of these different lubes does not manifest into longevity issues in a Dmax.

I point to the data in my "normalcy" article. Consider the SAE paper (2007-01-4133) that shows lube wear rates drop all the way out to 15k miles. What that paper shows is that oil changed frequently has approximately a 33% higher wear rate towards the front of an OCI (certainly dependent upon lube and engine). Now, 33% sounds shocking, but you have to keep that in perspective. It is essentially the difference of wear rates dropping from 3ppm to 2ppm. And we MUST look at the exposure duration for those ppm counts to really understand wear rates. Folks - that just does NOT make any real difference in the lifecycle of an engine; at least not relative to the typical ownership lifecycle. As the OCI lingers on, the wear rates drop, pracitcally to zero in some manner. I point this out because there may be some German study that does show that a thinner lube makes a "10%" reduction in wear at uber-cold temps. But often those wear rates are so incredibly low already, that a 10% reduction means NOTHING in real world ownership criteria. The shift is basically moot; it's a fraction of an already miniscule wear rate. And what does one pay for that 10% gain in wear reduction? 2x+ more money, for a 10% reduction, resulting in a shift of total lifespan of equipment that the owner likely never hold onto long enough to realize?

The SAE study I reference shows that the tribochemical anti-wear layer is the number one thing that contributes to wear reduction, and that wear rates can be positively affected by running a longer OCIl. I agree that vis may or may not play a small part, but it simply pales in contrast to the other contributors, when the totality of wear is considered. Why is this? Because before pressure gets to float a part in a bearing, there is NOT much metal to meatl contact. It is essentially the two metal parts pressing their chemical-barriers together. As long as that anti-wear layer is intact, it retards wear until the pressure can float the parts on the hydrodynamic wedge. So, if a thicker lube does take a bit longer to get where it's going, you won't see wear escalate in the same magnitude relative to the time shift. IOW - it may take a thicker lube 3x longer to get to the upper end, but that 300% greater time may only make a 10% shift in wear. And that differential does not even show up in all engines; the Dmax seems nearly immune to wear. So that 10% German study may only reveal a 1-2% shift in a Dmax (I'm picking out ficticious numbers for an example here). Get the point?

I'm being specific to this engine family; it does not see much wear at all, and it really does not shift wear rates greatly based upon lube choice. A thinner lube here might well make the Dmax start a bit quicker, but it's not going to make the engine last much longer. The OP would have to run this rig out way past 500k miles to likely see any shift in the wear rates great enough to affect his ownership lifecycle. Is that REALLY going to happen?

I'm not saying you two wrong; I'm saying you haven't convinced me until I get to read, disect and understand the study you claim to support your position.

I agree that the OP is likely to benefit from a thinner fluid. But I stand by my statements that wear reduction isn't going to be one of them; not relative to the overall lifecycle of the Dmax engine, and the likely projected ownership duration. I've got about 600 UOAs of Dmax engines, running all kinds of lubes in all kinds of temps. I've seen the data much deeper and broader than most of you. My claims are backed up by my UOA macro data, SAE study, and the direct knowledge of this engine family.

I welcome your challenges, but please be specific and show how your data would usurp mine as it directly relates to a Duramax.


Is use of 50 wt oil a good idea in ANY engine a smart thing at -20F? If not then use of 15W40 is not a smart thing for cold soaked starts (except for block heater) at -40F. The viscosities are about the same.
You are smithing a lot of words, I think it verges on sophistry, in order to avoid the "embarrassment" of saying that someone who lives in a climate with significant exposure to -40C/F should use 0W30/40 or 5W30/40 in the winter - these are usually synthetics! Your anti synthetic bias has seemingly overwhelmed common sense; the OP asked a simple question that deserved simple answers. He can/should use CH4/CI4/CJ4 0 to 5W-30 or 40 in the Alberta winter.
Sorry for the rant.

Charlie
'


Thanks for the link and reference Charlie - I'll have to buy/review that SAE paper when I get back to work.

As for my point, I fully agree that the OP could benefit from a thinner fluid. I'm on record many times as saying that uber cold temps can be a reasonable condition to using synthetics, and this is one of those times.

But I'm trying to delineate the REASONS as why to use a syn here.

As for the ease of starting, etc. a syn makes sense here.

As for the wear differences, the Dmax simply does not show a lot of preference for lube grades, regardless of how cold it gets. Yes - I have several UOAs from super-cold saturated areas where normal fluids and syn fluids can be contrasted, and there is not much (if any) statistical shift in wear. That is presuming two things:
1) the engine comes up to temp at some point and is run a reasonable length of time (no short-cycle 5 minute runs in a lab freezer)
2) the engine is used in a reaonably normal manner

Probably 10% of my UOA data comes from cold areas (really cold from the upper plains). I fully agree that there is beneift to running a thinner fluid in those areas. But it's not wear-rates that are affected; it's ease of starting. And I would agree, when it's super cold, a syn can even make the difference between starting or even not staring.

But it really does not make a great deal of difference in wear rates.

How many UOAs do you all have for the Dmax? Do have have enough to run statistical delineation for grades, environments, etc?

Wear at start up is generally resisted by the anti-wear chemical layer moreso than the hydrodynamic wedge. At start up, engines are typicaly not under much if any load, and therefore the wedge is not nearly as important as when the engine is under load such as driving or pulling heavy loads. The wedge is very important to separate the moving/non-moving parts when loaded. But that wedge is not an absolute necessity when just turning at idle for several seconds. The anti-wear layer is what resists wear before pressure reaches all parts. And that is a function of the lube devloping and laying down the chemical barrier, and is dependent upon OCI.

I'll review the SAE paper you mention when I get a chance; thank you for the reference.
 
BTW - I don't have an anti-syn bias. I realize that is often the perception, but that's an unfair characterization. No one seems to remember my praise of synthetics, because it goes often unnoticed. But by gosh, everyone seems to remember my challenges to syntheics. There are theads here at BITOG where I have seen excellent UOAs from extended OCIs, showing excellent use and ROI of premium products. And I praise them when I see them.

But there are a LOT of useless, wasteful UOAs here where syns are used as some end-all/be-all, one size fits all answer, and people worship at the syntheic altar blindly. Not me.

I used to be a synthetic junkie; I'm reformed now.

I do see value in synthetics; I still use synthetics in some applications; more in trannies and diffs than engines, but I do use them. I also do use synthetic in one of my brutally ignored air-cooled engine aplications, too. And I have applauded the use of synthetics many times, when the person applied a logical approach within conditions that showed the synthetic benefits were above what a normal fluid could achieve. I have recommended synthetics to friends and strangers when the conditions merit.

I'm not against any product simply based upon its existence. I am against blind faith lube loyalty when there is no data to support such position, or data that is incorrectly interpreted.

Big difference there.
 
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I have some experience starting a Duramax at -20F temperatures, and here is my 0.02 on the subject. A 0w-40 or 5w-40 would be my choice, it is much easier on the starting system at subzero temperatures and once it gets cold enough...the increased cranking speed is very important.

We used 15w-40 in everything that could be plugged in or parked inside, but the diesels that got left out in the wind started much better with 0w-40 or 5w-40. Esso and Petro-Canada both make some excellent oils for cold weather. Since you have already relieved the Duramax of the emissions equipment, you should have no problem achieving the OCI you listed.
 
Informative post so far,

I have a couple of more questions.

Is there any long term benefit to using the same oil vs switching grades/viscosity from one oil change to the next???? I am considering going to a 5w-40 syn oil for the winter, and was wondering if its beneficial to use the same 5w-40 every change vs switching back and forth from lets say a 5w-40 in the winter, and a 15w-40 in the summer. (changing oil every 6 monrths), Issue would not be the viscosity change, it is the potential for the motor too see different additives every change????

Also, although I believe if any, the difference would be minimal, would a 5w-40 syn oil produce better fuel economy than a conventional 15w-40. Even an increase of 1% in fuel economy (which you could not accurately measure) would be enough to offset the difference in price on a 10,000 mile oil change.
 
Moving on,
If I choose to switch to a syn oil, will the truck (long term) know the difference between a grp lll vs a grp lV PAO based oil????

I have priced out mobil delvac 1 5w-40 (CJ-4) oil for 6.99/liter, and was told it is a grp 1V base stock. Can anyone (fact) confirm.

The other options are grp lll 5w-40 (CJ-4) syn oils, for about $1.00 a liter less.
 
Originally Posted By: m37charlie
I don't hink the truck will notice the difference, except that it seems that the oils that are a major part group 4 LIKE dELVAC 1 ESP have a pour point a few degrees lower.
Have you priced Petro Canada Duron 5W40?
http://lubricants.petro-canada.ca/pdf/DURON_Synthetic_IM-7944E.pdf
It would be a good all year oil, whereas their 0W30 would be for winter only and then mainly if you live pretty far north.
My opinion is that 5W40 will offer slightly better summer fuel economy than 15W40 (~1%). the additive packs within one family of oils (like the Durons) are going to be near identical.

Charlie
 
Originally Posted By: m37charlie
I don't hink the truck will notice the difference, except that it seems that the oils that are a major part group 4 LIKE dELVAC 1 ESP have a pour point a few degrees lower.
Have you priced Petro Canada Duron 5W40?
http://lubricants.petro-canada.ca/pdf/DURON_Synthetic_IM-7944E.pdf
It would be a good all year oil, whereas their 0W30 would be for winter only and then mainly if you live pretty far north.

Charlie


Yes, the Petro Canada is one of the grp lll I was referring to. They actually recommend and sell lots of there duron E 10w-40 HDEO synthetic oil... for all year round use. http://lubricants.petro-canada.ca/pdf/DURON-E_IM-8028E.pdf
and has superior pumpability down to -35C(according to them!!!)
 
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I would only use the 10W40 in the winter if you live in the tropical part of Alberta, the SW corner. Otherwise 5W40; 0W30 if you live in Ft McMurray.
Remember, with your emission system delete you don't have to use Duron-E, although you can; regular old style Duron will work fine.

Charlie
 
All I will say is a large majority of the Duramax trucks operating in alberta winters all ask for 5w40/0w40 synthetic.
 
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