Oil for a 2002 Sequoia and 2008 Tundra?

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Taking the advice of the "which is the best oil" thread

1. What kind of vehicle you have
2. What your owner's manual says -- not just viscosity, but certifications (look for acronyms like API SM, ILSAC GF-4, etc.) and change intervals as well
3. Where you live
4. How you drive (easy? hard? fast? slow?)
5. What your daily drive is like (short trips? long trips? city? highway?)
6. Whether your car has any known problems.

I have two cars that we got recently and I want to do a full fluid swap from front to rear as I don't know what has or is in it.

I want to swap:
-Engine Oil
-ATF
-Transfer Case FLuid
-Front Diff Fluid
-Rear Diif Fluid

I want to perform 5000 mile OCI. I have always ran MOBIL 1 for the last seven years but after spending a lot of time lurking around here I am less sure than ever. I'm willing to pay for good oil I just want my cars to last.

First I have a

2002 TOYOTA SEQUOIA 4.7L 8-cyl Engine Code 2UZ-FE it is a platinum with 4WD.(100K Miles) We will only put 5K-10K on this truck a year.
This car is driven around town usually shorter than 20 miles round trip. Lots of errand running. We use it on the weekends and trips for highway use.
Their are no know problems that I know of.

Owners Manual Specs
-Recomended Intervals
5000 (leaning towards) due to mileage.
7500
-5W-30 (I have chart I downloaded of here somewhere that shows that Toyota went back changed to authorize 5W-20).
API grade SJ "Energy Conserving", SL "Energy Conserving" or ILSAC multigrade oil (6.5 Quarts with Filter)
-ATF
D-II or DEXRON III (DEXRON II) (2.1 Quarts Initial, 13 Quarts Total)
-Trasfer Case
SAE 75W-90 Gear Oil API GL-4 or GL-5 (1.3 Quarts)
-Front Differential
SAE 75W-90 Hypoid Gear OIL API GL-5
-Rear Differential
SAE 90 Hypoid Gear OIL API GL-5


Second I have a
2008 TOYOTA TUNDRA 5.7L 8-cyl Engine Code 3UR-FE it is a base model 4WD.(78K MIles)
I drive this pretty much on the highway at highway speeds. between 50 and 100 miles a day. I will average around 17k-25K a year.
The only problem I know of is some jerk hit the rear bumper in a parking lot the other day and left the without leaving a note.

-Recomended Intervals
Dont have the service manual and the stupid owners manual just reference it.
-SAE 5W-20 or SAE 0W-20
ILSAC Multigrade Engine Oil (7.4 Quarts with Filter).
-ATF (it says "Generally it is only neccesary to change transmission fluid when drivign under one of our special operating conditions").
Toyota Genuine ATF WS (3.2 Quarts Initial, 11 Quarts Total)
-Trasfer Case
SAE 75W-90 Gear Oil API GL-4 or GL-5 (1.2 Quarts)
-Front Differential
Toyota Genuine Diferential Gear Oil LT 75W-85 GL-5 or equivalent (2.2 Quarts)
-Rear Differential
Toyota Genuine Diferential Gear Oil LT 75W-85 GL-5 or equivalent (3.8 Quarts)

Questions I have:
1. For simplicity could I just run 5W-20 in both of these to make my life simple?
2. What would it by me to run 0W-20 in the Tundra?
3. I like Mobile 1 but am open to others (PP or VS) any thoughts?
4. How much would it help me to move up to a premium product like Amsoil or Redline?
5. Also what are good brands for the ATF/DIFF/T-Case Oil?
6. What are good filters for the suggestions?

Thanks -Jason
 
I'll try to answer these in the given format. If the Tundra is still under warranty then please follow the owner's manual. Used oil analysis will help you decide what's "best" for each of your vehicles but we can try to get you to a starting point.

1. 5w-20 should be fine in both engines if you have proof Toyota back spec'd the 4.7.

2. 0w-20 would be a judgement call. The Toyota, Royal Purple, M1, and Pennzoil 0w-20 has gotten a ton of praise around here and would actually be fine in both engines that call for 5w-20. Benefits would be better cold flow properties, better overall viscosity, a minute bump in fuel economy, etc. depending on who you ask.

3. See #2. Cost will be the separating factor unless you find a brand that the engine performs better with.

4. Amsoil and Redline both make excellent products. Usage will be the deciding factor. Amsoil and Redline have different lines of oil catered to different usage. Extended oil drain intervals and superior protection would be the goal with all oils but you would need used oil analysis to determine if the cost would be worth it for the higher priced oils.

5. Mobil 1 synthetic and Amsoil severe gear have been what I've always used. Amsoil actually lowered my rear diff temperature by about 15 degrees on average compared to Mobil 1 but that's not typical.

6. The Toyota filters are good, as well as Purolator Classic, Purolator Pure One, Mobil 1, K&N, Bosch, Mann...
 
For both vehicles:

Mobil 1 5w-20 motor oil if you're sure that grade is good for both. You like the M1 brand and it's good oil. Stick with it. 0w-20 if you'd like, but I wouldn't worry about it. It won't hurt anything.

Valvoline Maxlife ATF (this is a quality synthetic, available in gallons, and meets Dexron and WS specs).

Mobil 1 75w-90 gear oil in all the other holes. It's GL-5.

Purolator PureONE filters. They're not too pricy and a good choice for 5,000 miles.

Easy. Enjoy.
 
^^^Maxlife ATF, forgot to mention that. Used it in a couple of my vehicles and haven't had a problem.
 
Originally Posted By: ECUpirate
^^^Maxlife ATF, forgot to mention that. Used it in a couple of my vehicles and haven't had a problem.


+1...a couple of runs with Valvoline NexGen, MaxLife HM oil will make sure you're good to go.
 
Originally Posted By: ECUpirate
I'll try to answer these in the given format. If the Tundra is still under warranty then please follow the owner's manual. Used oil analysis will help you decide what's "best" for each of your vehicles but we can try to get you to a starting point.

1. 5w-20 should be fine in both engines if you have proof Toyota back spec'd the 4.7.

2. 0w-20 would be a judgement call. The Toyota, Royal Purple, M1, and Pennzoil 0w-20 has gotten a ton of praise around here and would actually be fine in both engines that call for 5w-20.


Originally Posted By: cp3
Sorry Bill
wink.gif

ToyotaOilChart.jpg



So i totally got the back spec info from another thread here on the board. Im not sure how to check it but looks like the real deal. I will call my local toyota dealer tomorrow.
 
Originally Posted By: simple_gifts
OT:Did you do the timing belt on the 2002?

I maintain a 2002 Tundra V8 for a friend.


No i haven't. Ive never done that before. But i noticed it in the service manual tonight. How bad of a process is it?
 
Originally Posted By: DesertTundra
Originally Posted By: simple_gifts
OT:Did you do the timing belt on the 2002?

I maintain a 2002 Tundra V8 for a friend.


No i haven't. Ive never done that before. But i noticed it in the service manual tonight. How bad of a process is it?


The 4.7 is a timing belt, dual overhead camshaft, interference engine. If the belt were to break then all 32 valves will crash into the pistons, killing the engine. Get it done, a good indie shop can get it done under a day, under $900.

I have an 01 Toyota Tundra with the 4.7L engine. Held off the belt change until 102K. Intervals are every 90K.
 
Originally Posted By: DesertTundra

ToyotaOilChart.jpg



This is the Canadian chart, which is frequently posted.

Here is a partial U.S. chart:
2012ToyotaOilChart.jpg


There are some differences. Specifically, where 5w-30 only is required in the U.S. (in my Tacoma, for instance), 5w-20 and 5w-30 are allowed in Canada. The resolution is poor and gives me a headache, but it appears that 20-weight oils may have not have been specified for any 4.7 in U.S.

What I take from that is 5w-30 may be a better option if you see desert heat. Just food for thought.
 
Smart move sticking to a full syn on Toyota engines. Will give you thousands of trouble free miles. If it were me in NM I'd run a 0w30 full syn in both. 7k OCI. PP, PU, M1 AFE. Should be able to find one of them in 5qt jugs at Walmart. Then you can buy in volume which is what your looking for I think..
 
Originally Posted By: wirelessF
Originally Posted By: DesertTundra
Originally Posted By: simple_gifts
OT:Did you do the timing belt on the 2002?

I maintain a 2002 Tundra V8 for a friend.


No i haven't. Ive never done that before. But i noticed it in the service manual tonight. How bad of a process is it?


The 4.7 is a timing belt, dual overhead camshaft, interference engine. If the belt were to break then all 32 valves will crash into the pistons, killing the engine. Get it done, a good indie shop can get it done under a day, under $900.

I have an 01 Toyota Tundra with the 4.7L engine. Held off the belt change until 102K. Intervals are every 90K.


My friend had hers changed @ 120K, about 9 years on the vehicle; You should also check Toyota dealer's price also (with water pump swap) because independent shops wanted a lot more since they as less familiar with the engine. We chose the dealer since they quoted a killer deal. I don't want someone who has never seen this engine muddling thru a job like this; if you have a toyota specific indy shop, by all means use them. JMO.
 
Thanks everyone for all the help with the timing belt issue. I called a local German, Japanese Indy shop and they quoted me $870 for all the work including water pump. I will call the Toyota place tomorrow and see where they are at. I would have had no idea how important this was without yall pointing it out. Thanks so much.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Smart move sticking to a full syn on Toyota engines. Will give you thousands of trouble free miles. If it were me in NM I'd run a 0w30 full syn in both. 7k OCI. PP, PU, M1 AFE. Should be able to find one of them in 5qt jugs at Walmart. Then you can buy in volume which is what your looking for I think..


What would the 0-30 due to my Tundra? Also what would be a correct filter for 7000 mile OCI?
 
Originally Posted By: Bandito440

There are some differences. Specifically, where 5w-30 only is required in the U.S. (in my Tacoma, for instance), 5w-20 and 5w-30 are allowed in Canada. The resolution is poor and gives me a headache, but it appears that 20-weight oils may have not have been specified for any 4.7 in U.S.

What I take from that is 5w-30 may be a better option if you see desert heat. Just food for thought.


I have no problem with staying with 30 weight in her car. We live in the high desert so we have two months that are 105 Farenheight or so and 2 months down in the 20's and Teens. Most of the year is between 70 and 100.

I was hoping to simplify my life with the just one motor oil but its no big deal if I have a little extra oil.

Thanks everyone for all of the help with this so far.
 
DT; if you ever get grief from your S.O. regarding time spent on the forum, just point to this post as to time well spent having avoided a potential timing belt disaster....
 
Well SG, My wife has been patient with this forum so far. However the knife forums I dredge through constantly are another thing. She gets a little irritated with how much time I spend there. Maybe this will buy me some good will.

I am definitely going to put this one in my get out of jail cards
smile.gif
 
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