When I get my timing belt changed (Hyundai)

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Get the Goodyear Kit # GTKWP323 for $222.79. Ive seen those at work, excellent quality parts. That was my go to if I hadnt found an Aisin OE kit for my Acura's Timing Belt kit.

Also , get the Goodyear Gatorback belts # 4060470 ( Alternator & A/c) and # 4050355 ( P/S ) since they have to come off anyways. Like someone mentioned, might as well do the plugs as well. Recommend Denso part # SK16PRL11 , probably available at your nearest AAP , with a discount using coupon codes either ES123 or A124.

All the above recommendations are based on the vehicle in your signature. If I assumed wrong, disregard please
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The 3.5 engine is a pain. The rear exhaust cam will move no matter where you put it and space is limited. 4 individual cam pullies that dont stay where you put them, along with angled timing marks = pain in the rear. With water pump IIRC it pays 7+hours labor. Change everything associated with the T/belt; pullies, tensioner, etc. Last one i did it had 1 bad pulley, leaking tensioner, and a separated harmonic balancer, all with only 55k miles. Might as well change belts if they are original. I was able to still do it under book time but it was close. Make sure the shop knows what they are getting into with this truck. There is an updated crank sensor reluctor ring assy, may want to look into that as well.

Spark plugs arent the easiest as well, as the intake needs to be removed. Pays 3 hours.

Buy parts at worldpac or OEM. Dont skimp out.
 
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Originally Posted By: mattd
The 3.5 engine is a pain. The rear exhaust cam will move no matter where you put it and space is limited. 4 individual cam pullies that dont stay where you put them

No cam I have ever encountered quite stays put; the right tools are required.
A competent shop will have them. They will have a cam-lock tool similar to the ones in these links:
Google Web search results for "cam lock tool"
Google Images search results for "cam lock tool"
 
I've done many timing belts on several different makes and this is the only engine that did not want to stay put. I have a snap on cam lock kit for multiple cams and it did not work. Made the job harder in this case. If you ever do this job you will understand.
 
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And then you have the almost-competent ones like me who buy the cam lock tools and let them get dusty because (with some exceptions of course) it usually just seems easier to use a wrench and in less cooperative applications: some chunks torn off an oil filter box.
 
I just spent $941 at the dealer for same work except drive belt($48 extra) for a 2007 Acura MDX with 3.7 V6 in New England. I got a nice TSX loaner.

Something seems really amiss to spend $2200 let alone $1200 on a "inexpensive" SUV.
 
Yes I found holding it with a wrench was easier than the cam lock kit. I personally do not like them but to each their own.
 
Originally Posted By: rjundi
I just spent $941 at the dealer for same work except drive belt($48 extra) for a 2007 Acura MDX with 3.7 V6 in New England at local Acura dealer. I got a nice TSX loaner.

Something seems really amiss to spend $2200 let alone $1200 on a "inexpensive" SUV.


That is job is cake compared to this Hyundai/
 
Originally Posted By: mattd


That is job is cake compared to this Hyundai/


Lol I was gonna say......


Honda timing belts are some of the easiest ones to replace based on what I hear from my Tech. He hates chrystler and hyundai v6 timing belt jobs though lol. Honda V6 timing belt labor according to the book is usually between 4~5 hrs.
 
Originally Posted By: mattd
I've done many timing belts on several different makes and this is the only engine that did not want to stay put. I have a snap on cam lock kit for multiple cams and it did not work. Made the job harder in this case. If you ever do this job you will understand.

You're saying that even the compact clamp-style ones (that use a bolt to lock the two cams together) don't work? If so, then that's a pretty pathetic engine design.
 
Originally Posted By: Tegger
Originally Posted By: mattd
I've done many timing belts on several different makes and this is the only engine that did not want to stay put. I have a snap on cam lock kit for multiple cams and it did not work. Made the job harder in this case. If you ever do this job you will understand.

You're saying that even the compact clamp-style ones (that use a bolt to lock the two cams together) don't work? If so, then that's a pretty pathetic engine design.



Yes double clamp style. Spent more time setting it up and did not hold cams steady no matter how I put it. I find they do not work quite as advertised.
 
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My mechanic did the timing belt job on my 2005 Sedona 3.5L engine last month--original belt at 145,000 miles. Paid about $760. About a week after I got car back it started idling a little rough at stops and check engine light started up. Called garage and they towed it in and redid job that same day and it is fine now. Something was off just a little or slipped and the mechanic ended up having to tear down again and re-due job. Got my fingers crossed engine holds up!
 
Originally Posted By: rjundi


Something seems really amiss to spend $2200 let alone $1200 on a "inexpensive" SUV.


There's the catch with many Hyundai vehicles. You saved on the purchase and got a long warranty..BUT for regular maintenance items you will pay dearly sometimes.
 
Originally Posted By: rjundi
I just spent $941 at the dealer for same work except drive belt($48 extra) for a 2007 Acura MDX with 3.7 V6 in New England. I got a nice TSX loaner.

Something seems really amiss to spend $2200 let alone $1200 on a "inexpensive" SUV.


Why didn't you replace the drive belt?
 
Originally Posted By: Oldasco
My mechanic did the timing belt job on my 2005 Sedona 3.5L engine last month--original belt at 145,000 miles. Paid about $760. About a week after I got car back it started idling a little rough at stops and check engine light started up. Called garage and they towed it in and redid job that same day and it is fine now. Something was off just a little or slipped and the mechanic ended up having to tear down again and re-due job. Got my fingers crossed engine holds up!


This happened because he did not set the tension on the eccentric pulley correctly, thus causing the bank 1 exhaust cam to jump time. Common mistake unfortunately.
 
My mechanic was good about fixing it right, stuff happens.

That 3.5L engine is a pain, my valve cover gaskets have just a tiny, tiny oil leak now and my mechanic said it would be about $600 to replace and due sparkplugs too. I'm going to sit on it for now! I think to replace valve cover gaskets, the timing belt cover has to come off too to install vc gaskets right. The rear plugs can only be accessed by removing all sorts of junk from top part of engine. The car is running smoothly now, I'll worry about replacing plugs when car starts stalling or bucks me out of driver's seat! The oil leak isn't too bad at all and I can live with it...if my car makes it another 60,000 miles, maybe I'll treat it to new sparkplugs and vc gaskets when I get timing belt done next time!
 
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wow, i think i understand now why anything kia/hyundai with that 3.5 has rock bottom residual/resale values. sedona, xg350, etc.
 
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