Cleaning catalytic converters???
- Thread starter T-Stick
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Depending on the vehicle and past use/abuse, FP in your gas and an AutoRX treatment may do the job your looking for.
In my particular case: a 2,000 Tacoma with 130k on it, runs great, excellent condition, good gas mileage, recently passed emissions exhaust test, has the O2 sensor replaced ... but the check engine light comes on occasionally indicating a faulty rear converter on the diagnostic machine.
The converter has been verified that it is not plugged. The dealer indicated that winter gas additives can sometimes initiate a gel coating which makes the burn inefficient, causing the light to come on. This one rear converter alone costs over 1k (plus labor) ... but of course they offered me the possibility of buying a new truck.
The converter has been verified that it is not plugged. The dealer indicated that winter gas additives can sometimes initiate a gel coating which makes the burn inefficient, causing the light to come on. This one rear converter alone costs over 1k (plus labor) ... but of course they offered me the possibility of buying a new truck.
Pump some gas with Ethanol in it through your car. A few tanks usually does the trick. Up here in Canada I use Sunoco Ultra 94. I use it only once in a while though. I don't like Ehtanol enhanced fuels.
Some muffler shops advertise catalytic converters for $99-$139 installed. 10 minute install for them.
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How are you getting a sniffer test in PA??
You're OBDII ..they should just be plugging in the $9000 scanner (gotta love PA how they can turn a $150 item into $10,000) and slap on the IM badge if NO CODES are shown.
Check to see if you have O2 sensors both in front of AND behind the cat.
If you do, then you likely only replaced the one in front. This one affects engine performance by checking the exhaust stream before the cat treats it.
If you have one, the rear sensor - behind the cat - simply lets the ECU know if you have a cat installed (by comparing the signal with the one in front of the cat). If this O2 sensor goes bad, then it could be signaling a bad cat.
This happened to my Expedition. Only I have four cats and four sensors...
If you need new cats, Magnaflow high-flows can be had on E-Bay for about $60 each.
If you do, then you likely only replaced the one in front. This one affects engine performance by checking the exhaust stream before the cat treats it.
If you have one, the rear sensor - behind the cat - simply lets the ECU know if you have a cat installed (by comparing the signal with the one in front of the cat). If this O2 sensor goes bad, then it could be signaling a bad cat.
This happened to my Expedition. Only I have four cats and four sensors...
If you need new cats, Magnaflow high-flows can be had on E-Bay for about $60 each.
Ford issued a TSB stating that replacement of the post-cat O2 sensor will not fix a catalyst efficiency threshold code (P0420/P0430).
When I was having a P0420 code with my '96 Ford Contour, I noticed that spraying B12 Chemtool into the throttle body with the engine running would make the code stay away for anywhere from 5000 to 10,000 miles. Perhaps repeated use of the B12 Chemtool would eventually clean the cat to the point where the code never returned.
When I was having a P0420 code with my '96 Ford Contour, I noticed that spraying B12 Chemtool into the throttle body with the engine running would make the code stay away for anywhere from 5000 to 10,000 miles. Perhaps repeated use of the B12 Chemtool would eventually clean the cat to the point where the code never returned.
MotorVac supposedly cleans cats. Read about it here:
http://impalassforum.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=33;t=002148
http://impalassforum.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=33;t=002148
The rear O2 sensor was replaced and it is the rear cat which was setting off the light. Right now the light is not on as the shop which diagnosed it must have reset it.
Another dealership told us the same thing -- that in the winter sometimes moisture in the fuel can play havoc with the CATs.
My plan is to run premium fuel and some Amsoil PI (unless there is a better additive that is suggested) and see whether the light comes back on. If it remains a problem I will be forced to change out the CAT before next years emission check.
I may have to check around about this motor vac machine to see if it is available anywhere close. I would prefer to keep the OEM exhaust system, but I will not spend over 1K for a new OEM CAT.
Another dealership told us the same thing -- that in the winter sometimes moisture in the fuel can play havoc with the CATs.
My plan is to run premium fuel and some Amsoil PI (unless there is a better additive that is suggested) and see whether the light comes back on. If it remains a problem I will be forced to change out the CAT before next years emission check.
I may have to check around about this motor vac machine to see if it is available anywhere close. I would prefer to keep the OEM exhaust system, but I will not spend over 1K for a new OEM CAT.
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