Went to change the oil on the Taurus I bought 2 weeks ago and to check out a few other things. I could smell something getting hot once in a while and found oil leaking onto the exhaust/cat on the passenger side. It's not a huge leak but definitely getting oil seaping all the way around and a oil build up on parts. How much of a bear is this to replace? Since I don't have a garage (live in an apt) is this a job for my mechanic? I didn't end up changing the oil as I figured it'd be a waste of good oil with changing the oil pan seal. I don't think a HM oil will help or fix this.
Leaking oil pan on 2001 Taurus.
- Thread starter volk06
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It may not be the oil pan. The timing chain covers on the Vulcan series are notorious for leaking. Mine is doing this now. It is well known and acts like an oil pan leak.
It's a big job and gives you a new lack of respect for automotive engineers.
Take a look at some of the ford forums. They hAve step by step instructions on how to do these jobs.
Btw. Be careful removing the oil pan. The pickup for the oil pump is built into it. If you remove the pan without removing the oil pump pickup it will break. Again the trick for this is out on most ford forums.
I've been avoiding this job by running High Mileage oils and 40 weights. It slows the leaking from the timing chain cover, but it still stinks. The leak falls on the cat and burns off slowly as it reaches temp. No oil on the ground wit the 40 weights. But smelly with the heater blowing full blast at stop lights.
Btw I bought my 2002 Taurus in 2004 with 25,000 miles. It now has 189,000 miles and has had this timing chain leak for around 5 years probably. My family has owned 5 taurus over the years. Mine is the las one running. Keep up on the oci's and transmission services and you will be good to go!
It's a big job and gives you a new lack of respect for automotive engineers.
Take a look at some of the ford forums. They hAve step by step instructions on how to do these jobs.
Btw. Be careful removing the oil pan. The pickup for the oil pump is built into it. If you remove the pan without removing the oil pump pickup it will break. Again the trick for this is out on most ford forums.
I've been avoiding this job by running High Mileage oils and 40 weights. It slows the leaking from the timing chain cover, but it still stinks. The leak falls on the cat and burns off slowly as it reaches temp. No oil on the ground wit the 40 weights. But smelly with the heater blowing full blast at stop lights.
Btw I bought my 2002 Taurus in 2004 with 25,000 miles. It now has 189,000 miles and has had this timing chain leak for around 5 years probably. My family has owned 5 taurus over the years. Mine is the las one running. Keep up on the oci's and transmission services and you will be good to go!
Its not bad on the 3.0. You need to remove the starter and a splash shield on the tranny but that's about it.
There is no cross member to worry about so you wont need to lift the engine.
There are 16 bolts holding the pan on.
Probably a couple of hours R&R if that helps you figure if its something you can do.
There is no cross member to worry about so you wont need to lift the engine.
There are 16 bolts holding the pan on.
Probably a couple of hours R&R if that helps you figure if its something you can do.
Have not done this myself on Taurus. These instructions should give you an idea if you can do it.
http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/1631315-post5.html
http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/82-maintenance-repair/171547-vulcan-oil-pan-gasket.html
http://www.fordforumsonline.com/forum/en...miles-flex.html
For Ranger.
http://rockledge.home.comcast.net/~rockledge/RangerPictureGallery/VulcanOilPanGasket.pdf
http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/1631315-post5.html
http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/82-maintenance-repair/171547-vulcan-oil-pan-gasket.html
http://www.fordforumsonline.com/forum/en...miles-flex.html
For Ranger.
http://rockledge.home.comcast.net/~rockledge/RangerPictureGallery/VulcanOilPanGasket.pdf
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Book time is 3.2 hrs.
Originally Posted By: Chris142
Book time is 3.2 hrs.
Yep that sounds about right working with hand tools.
Taking it apart with a small battery powered impact gun and 1/4" drive can shave an hour off easy.
Holding the gasket in place with weather strip adhesive helps too.
Book time is 3.2 hrs.
Yep that sounds about right working with hand tools.
Taking it apart with a small battery powered impact gun and 1/4" drive can shave an hour off easy.
Holding the gasket in place with weather strip adhesive helps too.
While the oil pan can leak at the gasket, the pan can hold all the oil and its sloshing around not under pressure and gravity is not pushing it out.
Make sure to check the oil pan for excessive rust. The vehicle is 10 years old and the oil pan itself may be on its way out.
Make sure to check the oil pan for excessive rust. The vehicle is 10 years old and the oil pan itself may be on its way out.
Good point my 2000 Pontiac pan is gonzo with rot. Major project with that one.
If you suspect the oil pan gasket, first try torqueing all of the little bolts holding the pan on.
Back all of them off a half a turn or so and then tighten all of them down to the specified torque.
The torque will be like nothing, so use a torque wrench that is biased toward the low end.
You can buy such a thing from Harbor Freight for a little bit of nothing.
Try this first and see if it cures your leaks.
Back all of them off a half a turn or so and then tighten all of them down to the specified torque.
The torque will be like nothing, so use a torque wrench that is biased toward the low end.
You can buy such a thing from Harbor Freight for a little bit of nothing.
Try this first and see if it cures your leaks.
Or get a piece of cardboard to park over.
ls1mike
$50 Site Donor 2024
Man I am glad we don't have rust here.
I agree with fdcg27, before replace the oil pan try re-torque all the bolts to spec then clean up the area with a de-greaser, monitor the pan for couple weeks to see if oil seaping out around the pan.
another nod for retorque pan bolts, then moving on to 3.2 seconds to scoot tonight's pizza box under the car.
How do you know HM oil wont work? Start pouring! Use it as top off till you get it fixed. Maybe it will stop. No assuming!
UPDATE: Ended up being the intake manifold gaskets. I had it fixed and have some engine pics here:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2858625#Post2858625
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2858625#Post2858625
the leak was apparently caused by a sheared trans pan bolt after having it inspected at a trans shop
the bolt did shear about a month ago when i tried droppipng the pan. i superglued the bolt back in, hoping it'd work, but it turns out it only worked temporarily. then the superglue went undone and the bolt got loose (didn't fall out) but the guy puled it out. This bolt is accessible from the back and the second half isn't in the pan because this one is hanging loose
i asked them to fix it they said they wanted 50 dollars as they needed to drop the pan, and other places wasnted nearly 200 as they said they needed to drop the pan
after googling stuck bolt, i realized with a drill bit, i heard a left handed drill bit, you can get a stuck bolt out, esp if the other end is showing (not in the pan or in anything) so how would you do that, or is other drill bits better? Get a drill bit the same diameter as the hole or a little smaller, and why did those shops say they needed to "drop the pan" when they probably knew of the drill trick? just to make extra moneY? then, i'll get a new bolt and hopefully, the leak will be resolved
the bolt did shear about a month ago when i tried droppipng the pan. i superglued the bolt back in, hoping it'd work, but it turns out it only worked temporarily. then the superglue went undone and the bolt got loose (didn't fall out) but the guy puled it out. This bolt is accessible from the back and the second half isn't in the pan because this one is hanging loose
i asked them to fix it they said they wanted 50 dollars as they needed to drop the pan, and other places wasnted nearly 200 as they said they needed to drop the pan
after googling stuck bolt, i realized with a drill bit, i heard a left handed drill bit, you can get a stuck bolt out, esp if the other end is showing (not in the pan or in anything) so how would you do that, or is other drill bits better? Get a drill bit the same diameter as the hole or a little smaller, and why did those shops say they needed to "drop the pan" when they probably knew of the drill trick? just to make extra moneY? then, i'll get a new bolt and hopefully, the leak will be resolved
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