Prefer plug in to accessory lighter plug, but could hardwire as well. TIA!
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Please recommend good 12volt windshield defroster
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The only GOOD 12V windshield defroster there is is the 12 volt defroster that came with your car, in other words, the factory defroster.
Seriously, those things don't create enough heat to do any real good, and the only way to use them is to have the car engine running. By the time your car heats up, the car's defroster is doing it's job.
Seriously, those things don't create enough heat to do any real good, and the only way to use them is to have the car engine running. By the time your car heats up, the car's defroster is doing it's job.
Originally Posted By: Kruse
The only GOOD 12V windshield defroster there is is the 12 volt defroster that came with your car, in other words, the factory defroster.
Seriously, those things don't create enough heat to do any real good, and the only way to use them is to have the car engine running. By the time your car heats up, the car's defroster is doing it's job.
+1
The only GOOD 12V windshield defroster there is is the 12 volt defroster that came with your car, in other words, the factory defroster.
Seriously, those things don't create enough heat to do any real good, and the only way to use them is to have the car engine running. By the time your car heats up, the car's defroster is doing it's job.
+1
With electric heaters,you are limited by the amp draw.So if they all took 20amps,they all would create the same heat.....next to none.12 volts x 20 amps=240 watts.Your Wife uses a 1000+ watt hair dryer.You would be better off using a heat gun with long extension cord.
I would beg to differ: my diesel car won't warm up if let idling! [For normal people who drive normal cars that's not an issue though.]
What's wrong with a scraper? Start car, scrape windows, by the time you get back in you might have the start of heat. I see you're in TN, not Alaska.
What's wrong with a scraper? Start car, scrape windows, by the time you get back in you might have the start of heat. I see you're in TN, not Alaska.
You need to run a 110 cord out to the car and run a small space heater inside. Use a timer so it starts running maybe 1/2 hour before you leave. Downside is that you risk burining up your car if you don't do it right. Maybe there are space heaters made specifically for this purpose and that would be better than a home space heater balanced on a board or whatever. But it's a great idea and provides for safe driving as we all tend to drive off before the windows are all that clear.
My focus won't warm up just idling in a parking lot either.
Solution: Put the windows down until the engine has enough heat to defrost the windows.
Solution: Put the windows down until the engine has enough heat to defrost the windows.
If those little fan blown toaster element things were any good they'd use them for rear defrosters instead of the wire grids that look lousy and nick easiliy.
I tried one on an old car that had a small heater core leak, the leak was adding humidity and not defrosting all that well. In addition to its low output, the 12 gauge cord got really stiff in the cold and there wasn't a good way of securing it. So it slid all over the surface of my dash and into my lap etc. It stunk whenever I ran it from the plastic getting warm or dust on the heater element.
The one plausibly good thing is it's another electrical load that the engine will have to work slightly harder against, so the engine itself will make heat faster. But this is very small.
I tried one on an old car that had a small heater core leak, the leak was adding humidity and not defrosting all that well. In addition to its low output, the 12 gauge cord got really stiff in the cold and there wasn't a good way of securing it. So it slid all over the surface of my dash and into my lap etc. It stunk whenever I ran it from the plastic getting warm or dust on the heater element.
The one plausibly good thing is it's another electrical load that the engine will have to work slightly harder against, so the engine itself will make heat faster. But this is very small.
How'd they defrost the old air cooled VW Beetles? As I recall you never did get much heat in those things.
Originally Posted By: TallPaul
Maybe there are space heaters made specifically for this purpose and that would be better than a home space heater balanced on a board or whatever. But it's a great idea and provides for safe driving as we all tend to drive off before the windows are all that clear.
There are. Temro makes some, along with block heaters and other such things. They work great and are quite affordable.
Maybe there are space heaters made specifically for this purpose and that would be better than a home space heater balanced on a board or whatever. But it's a great idea and provides for safe driving as we all tend to drive off before the windows are all that clear.
There are. Temro makes some, along with block heaters and other such things. They work great and are quite affordable.
My new Avalon has a great windshield defroster...get a new Toyota or Lexus.
When it warms up, the air system works fine. It starts blowing warm air and defogs in 1-2 minutes. The defrosting is a little longer, but the ice melter windshield washer solution takes car of that. I only want a little faster system so that when the bell rings at work, and hundreds of people get in line to leave the plant, I can be a bit ahead.
And not hit the day shift people coming in.
I'd like to hear from anybody who has used one in the past with some small bit of success. I had a cheap one that wasn't worth a flip in the past.
Originally Posted By: Garak
Maybe there are space heaters made specifically for this purpose and that would be better than a home space heater balanced on a board or whatever. But it's a great idea and provides for safe driving as we all tend to drive off before the windows are all that clear.
At home I'm good. As I work night shift, it's at work I need a NO CORD solution. Hence the 12 VOLT request.
Originally Posted By: Garak
There are. Temro makes some, along with block heaters and other such things. They work great and are quite affordable.
Thanks Garak, but it seems 120v only for cabin air heater.
Originally Posted By: TallPaul
How'd they defrost the old air cooled VW Beetles? As I recall you never did get much heat in those things.
A fresh system actually worked ok, but still was a little smelly. The engine fan forced air around shrouds over the exhaust manifolds.
And not hit the day shift people coming in.
I'd like to hear from anybody who has used one in the past with some small bit of success. I had a cheap one that wasn't worth a flip in the past.
Originally Posted By: Garak
Maybe there are space heaters made specifically for this purpose and that would be better than a home space heater balanced on a board or whatever. But it's a great idea and provides for safe driving as we all tend to drive off before the windows are all that clear.
At home I'm good. As I work night shift, it's at work I need a NO CORD solution. Hence the 12 VOLT request.
Originally Posted By: Garak
There are. Temro makes some, along with block heaters and other such things. They work great and are quite affordable.
Thanks Garak, but it seems 120v only for cabin air heater.
Originally Posted By: TallPaul
How'd they defrost the old air cooled VW Beetles? As I recall you never did get much heat in those things.
A fresh system actually worked ok, but still was a little smelly. The engine fan forced air around shrouds over the exhaust manifolds.
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Originally Posted By: TallPaul
How'd they defrost the old air cooled VW Beetles? As I recall you never did get much heat in those things.
If conditions were bad, use a scraper on both sides of the windshield. On the plus side, the windshields were flat (except the Super Beetle). From the defroster, it was a long way to the heater box, and as I recall it was just the engine cooling fan pushing the air through the heating system. They did get warm after you drove them for a while. My wife had a couple VWs before we got married, "Fritz" and "Ralph", yeah, she named 'em. You did have to bundle-up for a drive in the old VW on a cold winter's day! Ah, memories.
I did try one of those little heater-blowers in a Corvair many, many years ago (same problem as the VW). As was previously mentioned, 200 some watts is no match against a cold winter morning. The cold winter morning winter wins. It didn't do much.
It does make me appreciate how much thermal energy comes out of a typical car heater, though.
Sorry I don't have more advice for the OP, but the trip down memory lane was nice, thanks.
How'd they defrost the old air cooled VW Beetles? As I recall you never did get much heat in those things.
If conditions were bad, use a scraper on both sides of the windshield. On the plus side, the windshields were flat (except the Super Beetle). From the defroster, it was a long way to the heater box, and as I recall it was just the engine cooling fan pushing the air through the heating system. They did get warm after you drove them for a while. My wife had a couple VWs before we got married, "Fritz" and "Ralph", yeah, she named 'em. You did have to bundle-up for a drive in the old VW on a cold winter's day! Ah, memories.
I did try one of those little heater-blowers in a Corvair many, many years ago (same problem as the VW). As was previously mentioned, 200 some watts is no match against a cold winter morning. The cold winter morning winter wins. It didn't do much.
It does make me appreciate how much thermal energy comes out of a typical car heater, though.
Sorry I don't have more advice for the OP, but the trip down memory lane was nice, thanks.
Originally Posted By: LineArrayNut
Thanks Garak, but it seems 120v only for cabin air heater.
Well, I guess a no cord solution definitely leaves out a 120 solution, aside from playing with inverters and killing one's battery.
Another brand is Pyroil; they do make an 120 version (I have one of those), and it's possible they make a 12 V one. Honestly, I have heard mostly bad things about 12 V ones, but that could very well be because our climate might just be a bit too much for a 12 V heater.
Thanks Garak, but it seems 120v only for cabin air heater.
Well, I guess a no cord solution definitely leaves out a 120 solution, aside from playing with inverters and killing one's battery.
Another brand is Pyroil; they do make an 120 version (I have one of those), and it's possible they make a 12 V one. Honestly, I have heard mostly bad things about 12 V ones, but that could very well be because our climate might just be a bit too much for a 12 V heater.
LANut--- I looked at these a while back.... most of them were well under a 10amp draw.... at 12V that equates to 120watts or less, since the cig lighter is only good for 10amps. Basically they just don't carry enough punch to do anything.
Maybe a grid heater for the intake of a diesel truck?? but they will need starter-motor levels of current.
An array of halogen bulbs - say 4 of them in a black box or pipe - would pull 200W (~18 amps) and start to develop some heat.
if you could unwind the wire out of a hair drier or toaster, you could rewind it with shorter lengths..... but even a 400W heater will require 50A wiring, so be careful. (I think 400w would be a good number.... using about 1/3 of the hair drier element, rewired at lengths that are 1/10 the original total).
anyway--- I think it's feasable from a DIY angle --- just gotta make sure you are up for that kind of power, and presumably a second battery --- 400W over 15 minutes 25% of a battery's capacity, and takes a starter battery 5% below its safe discharge threshold. If I still lived in the snowbelt-- I'd consider!
Edit: and I think I'd hit the appliance store and buy the thermo-fuse cutout they use in ovens.... if it hits a certain temp I'd want it shutting down before melting something important!
M
Maybe a grid heater for the intake of a diesel truck?? but they will need starter-motor levels of current.
An array of halogen bulbs - say 4 of them in a black box or pipe - would pull 200W (~18 amps) and start to develop some heat.
if you could unwind the wire out of a hair drier or toaster, you could rewind it with shorter lengths..... but even a 400W heater will require 50A wiring, so be careful. (I think 400w would be a good number.... using about 1/3 of the hair drier element, rewired at lengths that are 1/10 the original total).
anyway--- I think it's feasable from a DIY angle --- just gotta make sure you are up for that kind of power, and presumably a second battery --- 400W over 15 minutes 25% of a battery's capacity, and takes a starter battery 5% below its safe discharge threshold. If I still lived in the snowbelt-- I'd consider!
Edit: and I think I'd hit the appliance store and buy the thermo-fuse cutout they use in ovens.... if it hits a certain temp I'd want it shutting down before melting something important!
M
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Originally Posted By: meep
LANut--- I looked at these a while back.... most of them were well under a 10amp draw.... at 12V that equates to 120watts or less, since the cig lighter is only good for 10amps. Basically they just don't carry enough punch to do anything.
[...]
An array of halogen bulbs - say 4 of them in a black box or pipe - would pull 200W (~18 amps) and start to develop some heat.
M
200 watts of halogen bulbs is going to produce less heat than 200W of heating elements, since some of the wattage is producing light (albeit a small amount).
LANut--- I looked at these a while back.... most of them were well under a 10amp draw.... at 12V that equates to 120watts or less, since the cig lighter is only good for 10amps. Basically they just don't carry enough punch to do anything.
[...]
An array of halogen bulbs - say 4 of them in a black box or pipe - would pull 200W (~18 amps) and start to develop some heat.
M
200 watts of halogen bulbs is going to produce less heat than 200W of heating elements, since some of the wattage is producing light (albeit a small amount).
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