Coolant filter- an experiment

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y-barb not necessary, just change the first filter at 500 miles then every 1k miles after that.
 
would having the filter elevated above the radiator cap allow for more debris to become trapped in the filter? I only say because it seems most junk seems to end up in the overflow/cap area vs the bottom drain nozzle.
 
The reason i think junk gets trapped into the overflow tank is because there are compartments in there if they are anything like my tank.

Its almost like a pocket so if the water settles its stuck there.

I am going to try some neo magnets on my fuel filter when i install it and see if that helps get some of the metal out.
 
Hey Onion,
Are you still running these coolant filters(metal ones) and if so what type of mileage interval?
 
Hey guys not sure if I'm too late to the party..
smile.gif
. Amazing write up and information here, but I do have a few questions Will I be able to place an inline fuel filter (probably the $3 ones from Walmart similar to OP's) on the line to my non-pressurized overflow tank? 1998 Camry. Single line from radiator cap neck to overflow.. I know these are fuel filters and are unidirectional with an antidrainback valve.. so. I was wondering. Will most of the crud and fine particles (after a drive when I check the tank I can see it's slightly hazy, not a lot, but still noticeable. Will all the particles settle down and be too heavy to be sucked up again? I was thinking of cutting the tank hose a bit shorter.. but anyway. My other question. The main one, since it's not pressurized, meaning it'll have a small trickle flow, can I use a sorta bypass system with some Y connectors like another poster had suggested, to have the coolant flow back into the radiator and still be filtered? I was thinking of making the first y split at the valley of the hose line, with the filter there, then ahead on the hose, I'd have a conector split the line and route it behind the filter but not in the valley as to not cause it to trickle back down into the filter and create a loop and cause the overflow tank to.. become overflown haha. My last idea was to place a bit of a kitchen sponge at the end of the overflow tank hose so it directly trickles the water onto the sponge, hopefully trapping some small particles and sediment, then wash it and put it back in. My only question is what if it's left there too long? Will it release the held particles, instead of having them settle down (or as asked above, if they ALL even settle down to begins with.) and sorta put more particles back into the radiator than if I had no filter at all.. I'm guessing.. maybe wash the sponge after every gas fill up? ~400 miles. And max being 500 if I fill at night and I'm feeling lazy... hahaha. Well.. sorry for the bump of a 7 year old post.. and for the VERRY lengthy comment.. thanks in advance! Cheers.
 
Originally Posted By: pandarides4130
Hey guys not sure if I'm too late to the party..
smile.gif
. Amazing write up and information here, but I do have a few questions Will I be able to place an inline fuel filter (probably the $3 ones from Walmart similar to OP's) on the line to my non-pressurized overflow tank? 1998 Camry. Single line from radiator cap neck to overflow.. I know these are fuel filters and are unidirectional with an antidrainback valve.. so. I was wondering. Will most of the crud and fine particles (after a drive when I check the tank I can see it's slightly hazy, not a lot, but still noticeable. Will all the particles settle down and be too heavy to be sucked up again? I was thinking of cutting the tank hose a bit shorter.. but anyway. My other question. The main one, since it's not pressurized, meaning it'll have a small trickle flow, can I use a sorta bypass system with some Y connectors like another poster had suggested, to have the coolant flow back into the radiator and still be filtered? I was thinking of making the first y split at the valley of the hose line, with the filter there, then ahead on the hose, I'd have a conector split the line and route it behind the filter but not in the valley as to not cause it to trickle back down into the filter and create a loop and cause the overflow tank to.. become overflown haha. My last idea was to place a bit of a kitchen sponge at the end of the overflow tank hose so it directly trickles the water onto the sponge, hopefully trapping some small particles and sediment, then wash it and put it back in. My only question is what if it's left there too long? Will it release the held particles, instead of having them settle down (or as asked above, if they ALL even settle down to begins with.) and sorta put more particles back into the radiator than if I had no filter at all.. I'm guessing.. maybe wash the sponge after every gas fill up? ~400 miles. And max being 500 if I fill at night and I'm feeling lazy... hahaha. Well.. sorry for the bump of a 7 year old post.. and for the VERRY lengthy comment.. thanks in advance! Cheers.


Welcome to BITOG, you're new here?
 
Originally Posted By: pandarides4130
Well.. sorry for the bump of a 7 year old post.. and for the VERRY lengthy comment.. thanks in advance! Cheers.

Thanks for bumping the old thread, it was a very interesting read.
 
The pictures are no longer available online so I will attach them again directly to the forum which wasn't an option until recently.

I used a plastic filter at first and it wasn't up to the task. It caught a lot of junk in just a couple days and then melted inside and stopped filtering. It was also swollen which had me worried about bursting.

The metal filter caught up bunch of stuff, I left it on much longer and when I took it off it too was melted inside because I could hear the element rattling inside.

My conclusion is that it was a good temporary way to remove floating contamination, but should be monitored carefully since these aren't made for high temperature. Also drive easy because the plastic filter let loose on the day I ran the engine to Redline.




 
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