1985 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Royale Brougham

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Looking for oil + filter recommendations for my vehicle and my driving habits, all help and suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Car: 1985 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Royale Brougham Coupe
Engine: Oldsmobile 307 5.0L V8
Mileage: 75k original miles
Climate: Dallas TX

I have been running 10w-30 just like it states on the oil cap and in the manual. Mobile conventional super 5000 to be exact and a wix oil filter.

The car does have a slow oil leak from the rear main seal so I am looking for a oil that is helpful for older leaky cars. Also thinking of switching from a wix to a K&N oil filter PS-2006.
 
I would say keep on doing what you're doing. I think the K&N filter is overkill. I don't think a high mileage oil will help the leak, because the Olds has a rope rear main seal. You may just have to bite the bullet and get it fixed. BTW, I owned an '83 Brougham coupe. I'd still be driving it, if I could have figured out a way to install fuel injection and air bags!
 
I have that exact same car, 1985 Olds Delta 88 Royale Brougham Coupe with the original Olds 5L 307 gas V8

I bought mine on April 29, 1992 with 47K on the clock and a bad trany slipping between 1st, and 2nd. Had a new 400R trany with shift kit and a trany oil cooler put in the next day. Have 168,820 miles on it now.

The valve covers are a bear to keep from leaking oil on GM V8 engines. After doing the valve covers many times over the last 20 years of owning that car I upgraded to new valve covers that were less likely to warp, and I also got a better valve cover gasket from Summit to go with the new valve covers. With the low miles you have with that engine now, for the oil if it were mine I would use GC because it provides great engine protection in hot or cold conditions, and it is great for the main seals and all other seals of that engine. There was a post here on BITOG about Mercedes having forgotten to specify GC for their cars here in the U.S. Those who new enough to use GC had no problems. Those who did not had main seals leak. They had a recall telling owners to use GC and Mercedes had to replace the damaged main seals of the vehicles that GC was not used in for free under the recall.


GC stands for German Castrol, it is Castrol in the black bottle and it will say "European Formula" on the front of the bottle and "made in germany on the back". You can get it at PepBoys, and AutoZone.


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The following is some information about GC:


European Motor Oil - German Castrol 0W-30

We at European Motor Oils are proud to offer our customers, Castrol Syntec 0W-30 European Formula fully synthetic motor oil. Yes, this is GC, German Castrol! Euro Synthetic Oils believes that it is important to stock this very well known and popular motor oil. Simply called "German Castrol by many, Castrol Syntec 0W-30 European Formula, has obtained tons of excellent UOAs (used oil analyses), many of which are reported on the internet forum, "Bob is the oil guy". Castrol Syntec 0W-30 European Formula is engineered to meet the Mercedes Benz 229.5 specification. The 0W-30 viscosity grade is ideal for winter conditions where low temperature pumpability is required. A unique, "low temperature" formulation provides exceptional pumpability in cold weather and allows for unaided engine starts down to -40F. GC is a very stable synthetic motor oil with a cSt of 12(+-) at 100 C. This indicates a "heavier" oil than most 30 weight oils. It is a rather unique oil in that its cSt tends to fall between a 30 and 40 weight oil, though still a 30 weight oil.
German castrol's strength lies in a special oligomer. German Castrol utilizes a very special oligomer. The oligomer is a very cutting edge synthetic fluid sourced from Ketjenlube, a big name additive supplier to the lubricant industry. The actual compound was developed by Kyocera in Japan and the formula was sold to Ketjenlube. So this German blended oil has some Asian heritage . The specific oligomer is a small cut in the overall oil of around 5% or so. It is very thick, with a kinematic cSt @100C viscosity of >200. That is very thick indeed. Heavier than the cSt @100C of many gear oils. This is the content that creates the "cushioning" effect and dampens noise in high shear and rotational zones such as the valve trains. That is why so many German Castrol users comment on how much quieter and smoother their engine seems to run with German Castrol. Read the following link to give you an idea of the effectiveness of Ketjenlube.
View Ketjenlube Polymer Esters Information

CASTROL SYNTEC 0W-30 EUROPEAN FORMULA BENEFITS:
CASTROL GC can be used with confidence in gasoline engine passenger car, new or old, regardless of oil previously used.
CASTROL GC is fully compatible with all conventional and synthetic oils.
CASTROL GC provides superior protection against deposits. Corrosive particles such as acid, soot and oxidized fuel fragments can cause costly damage to critical engine parts.
CASTROL GC contains a Powerful Additive Package that neutralizes corrosive particles, preventing them from grouping together and forming sludge.
Neutralizes acids in your engine that can cause rust and corrosion on vital engine parts such as cylinders, bearings and hydraulic valve lifters.
CASTROL GC meets the world's toughest gasoline engine protection requirements.
CASTROL GC provides Stability & Endurance under extreme conditions (heat, load, speed) that can cause conventional oils to break down.
CASTROL GC delivers the ultimate performance under extreme high-temperature and extreme mechanical loads.
"MADE IN GERMANY" ON THE BACK OF THE BOTTLE. SEE THE OEM APPROVALS BELOW!
 
Changing the subject, some additional information for your Olds.

The design of the brake on those vehicles required too much force be applied on the brake pedal. And if you have a bad back, applying that much force can cause back pain. So there is a modification you can do to reduce the amount of force you apply to the brake pedal.

There is a vacuum control relay about the size of 3/4 of a roll of dimes, installed on a vacuum line located on the drivers side of the top of the engine, just in-front of the air passage way leading to the air cleaner. The design of that relay is wrong, and the coil in it gets too hot and melts the plastic. If you put a 27 ohm 5 watt (or greater that 5 watt if you can't find 5 watt) resistor in series with one of the wires (it does not matter which wire) so as to reduce the current through that relay, it will still work, but will not burn out. Just wire tie the resistor to the wiring harness to mount it.

I replaced that relay a couple of times and realized that it was a bad design, so I experimented to find how large of a resistor I could add and still have the relay work, so I could lower the current amount so the relay would not get as hot, and therefore not burn out.

It has been about 19 years since I did that modification, so I can't remember if that relay is for the idle control, the anti-knock, or the cruse control release when you hit the brake. And it is raining outside now so I am not going to go look at it to figure it out now.

So one recommendation is to add a 27 Ohm 5 Watt resistor in series with the one of the wires to that relay so it will still work, but not burn out.

Another suggestion is to replace the little air filter can on the vacuum line to the power brake booster.

There is a modification you can do to the power brake booster to reduce the feed back on the brake pedal so it is easier to push. You will still push it the same amount for the same amount of brake, but it will be easier to push. If you unbolt the master cylinder from the booster, there is a round piece that goes between the booster and the master cylinder. That round piece rest on a rubber disk about the size of two quarters one on top of the other. If you get a second one of these rubber disks from either a other vehicle, or from some place that services power brake boosters, and you hollow out the center of that rubber washer and place it on top of the existing washer so there are now two washers (the center is where the feedback pressure to you is transmitted) you can drastically reduce the feedback pressure it takes to press the brake pedal. Then shorten the round rod by the thickness of that additional washer before you put it back. if you really want to reduce the feedback you could hollow out the center of both rubber washers.

Once you make this modification the brake pedal will be very easy to press, but you will still move it the same amount to get the same amount of brake.
 
Also I took out the full bench front seat, and put in 40/60 split with the arm rest in the center. I pulled the 40/60 from a 1983 Pontiac station-wagon. I had to take the center mounts from the 1983 Pontiac and put them in my Olds so I could have mounts for the center sections of each seat.

I also installed a Kenwood Music Keg with 80 Gig hard drive. I have it 1/2 loaded with 2500 songs saved with high resolution WAVE or FLAC format depending on the individual DC each song was taken from.

And I installed an Espar gasoline fueled heater in the trunk. Something more appreciated here in the northern states compared to the heat of Texas.

One nice thing about that car is that it can pull my sail boat while the car and boat are packed with enough for 2 weeks of vacation at a lake side cabin.
 
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There is a Purolator extra long filter for that engine, but I am not crawling under it right now (its raining) to read it, and I can't remember if I have it written down anywhere.
 
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If you ever replace the exhaust, don't let anyone talk you into thinking the walker exhaust without the resinator (little additional muffler) is going to provide proper noise suppression. It will not. Unless you are hard of hearing and never listen to the sound system of your vehicle, never try to get by with the walker exhaust with out a resinator system.
 
Bosch 3423 and Rotella 10w-30 or even 15w-40 will be fine for that engine. Or any good HDEO in those grades, but 10w-30 should cover most any needs.
I never had any problems with the engine or electricals on my '85 88, but had the trans fail at 94k and problems with the proportioning valve after a line failed. Only other problems were due to rust. I'd drive one again.
smile.gif
 
What is that, some kind of southern knockoff to Mobil oils?
smirk.gif


Originally Posted By: JimPghPA
Stay away form Mobile oils, they make oil leaks worse.
 
Why not try the Mobil Super high mileage? It might help with the oil leak. My experience with mobil oils is that they do not cause problems with leaks and that experience applies to two cars with more than 240K miles.
 
I wouldn't change oil brands or filters if its working. I WOULD probably use 5w30 instead of 10w30. With modern high viscosity index base stocks, 5w30 can be made with no more (or even less) viscosity modifiers than 10w30 of years past. 10w30 is a useless grade except in the very cheapest of conventional oils as far as I'm concerned. If you're paying for a quality brand like Mobil, Pennzoil yellow bottle, etc. then even in a conventional oil I'd pick 5w30 over 10w30.
 
Originally Posted By: tightwad
I would say keep on doing what you're doing. I think the K&N filter is overkill. I don't think a high mileage oil will help the leak, because the Olds has a rope rear main seal. You may just have to bite the bullet and get it fixed. BTW, I owned an '83 Brougham coupe. I'd still be driving it, if I could have figured out a way to install fuel injection and air bags!


+1! An '82 with a 307. That thing would not die.

Used 10W-40 in it, I know 10W-30 probably would have been fine but it likes 10W-40 (80's dino.)
 
AWESOME car!!!!!!! Post some pics if you can :^) I`d use 10W30/40 GTX or Valvoline and an AC Delco non-ecore filter.
 
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Thanks for all the advice and stories you guys have shared.

The main reason of this thread was to find a conventional Oil to help me with leaks and seals (I know if wont fix but hopefully slow down)

Will try to post pics soon!
 
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Thanks for preserving the legacy V8! I still have the Cutlass in my signature with a 307. All I ever used was 10w30 synthetic and a PureOne 20123 or Wix 51045. Only reason I pulled the original was valve guide wear, rear main seal leaking. Easier to work on out of the car, keep clean oil and a good filter on it and you can't kill those engines. If you want to get nostalgic, try a Hastings LF212 or Purolator Classic L30005...like back in the day. Big filters hold a lot more oil. Enjoy

Almost forgot, look up a Ford Y block rear main seal, xx6141 is the part number (xx is 2 letters I can't remember) Rubber lip seal type that works excellent, just stagger the joint in relation to the block/cap joint. Also an AMC 360 rear main seal works I believe, but you have to trim off 2 small projections on the outside, no big deal. After learning about the Ford seal in the early 80's I have not used another rope seal on an Olds motor to this day.
 
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Originally Posted By: 86cutlass307
Thanks for preserving the legacy V8! I still have the Cutlass in my signature with a 307. All I ever used was 10w30 synthetic and a PureOne 20123 or Wix 51045. Only reason I pulled the original was valve guide wear, rear main seal leaking. Easier to work on out of the car, keep clean oil and a good filter on it and you can't kill those engines. If you want to get nostalgic, try a Hastings LF212 or Purolator Classic L30005...like back in the day. Big filters hold a lot more oil. Enjoy

Almost forgot, look up a Ford Y block rear main seal, xx6141 is the part number (xx is 2 letters I can't remember) Rubber lip seal type that works excellent, just stagger the joint in relation to the block/cap joint. Also an AMC 360 rear main seal works I believe, bu i386t you have to trim off 2 small projections on the outside, no big deal. After learning about the Ford seal in the early 80's I have not used another rope seal on an Olds motor to this day.



Hey man glad to hear some of us actually keep the trusty original 307 and don't pull it for a chebby 350. I also run a Wix 51045 currently but I have the opportunity to buy K&N PS2006 for $8.99ea I already run a K&N AF just thought they would make a good oil filter but truly I have no idea. Thanks for the advice on the rear seal.
 
Thanks for everybody's input and advice I really do appreciate it.

@ JimPghPA- Whew you wrote a book there buddy! For my exhaust I have a flowmaster 40 with the resonator cut off and I enjoy the sound its really subtle but still you get that great sound.

With the brakes I haven't noticed that problem but hey I'm 27 years old with a strong back lol.
 
To OP, have you installed a third brake light for the back window?

Is yous still R12?

I kept mine R12 until a hole rubbed through the condenser about a year ago. There was a piece of the frame too close to the exit line of the condenser, and it was making intermittent contact that finally rubbed a hole through the line on the condenser just after it turns to go to a connector.

I got it fixed this spring, but R12 was no where to be found so I had to have it converted. With R12 it use to blow ice-cubes, now it is OK. But not the dripping condensation on the key chain when you held the keys up while walking away from the car after running the AC, that the R12 system could do.

Also check the clutch fan. Those clutches have a friction material inside similar to a brake shoe. And like a brake shoe they wear out. You can get a heavy duty clutch fan when you replace the fan.

About 13 years ago I replaced the radiator and the heater core with the top of the like that Modine made. I still have the engine and radiator flushed every two or three years. The radiator for 1985 Olds 88 is copper, and they corrode more than the aluminum radiators more common today.
 
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