What does it take to clog a catalytic converter?

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I picked up a Honda civic with the d15a2 motor with 212,400 miles a few weeks ago. Immediately put autoRX in the crankcase and FP in the fuel. By about 550 miles the car was just not running quite right anymore. After doing some simple things to the car and checking it out it seems as if the vehicle has a plugged catalytic converter.

Obvously if this is the case I would in no be blaming lcd as that crap would have been in my engine to begin with, but has anyone experienced problems similar to this when introducing something like fuel power to a high milage car for the first time.
 
quote:


From the articles at http://www.team-integra.net/

WHY DID IT FAIL?

1. Out Of Tune Engine


Anytime an engine is running out of tune due to improper air/fuel mixture, misfiring cylinders, faulty engine sensors, incorrect ignition timing, etc., damage to the catalytic converter will be incurred. Proper and regular servicing per the auto manufacturers recommendations are necessary to prevent premature catalytic converter failure.


2. Excess Fuel Overheating The Catalytic Converter

An engine that is performing at peak efficiency will burn all the fuel in the combustion chamber during the combustion process. An engine that is not performing properly, that is not burning all the fuel, will allow unburned or excess fuel to enter the exhaust system. When this excess or unburned fuel contacts the hot core of the converter it will ignite. This constant infusion of unburned fuel will cause temperatures to continuously rise above the designed operating temperature until the core of the catalytic converter will actually melt. Possible causes for the excess fuel entering the exhaust system are an incorrect fuel mixture, incorrect timing, corroded spark plugs, worn and cracked ignition wires, improper fuel pressure, a faulty oxygen sensor, sticking float, faulty fuel injector or a malfunctioning check valve.


3. Oil or Antifreeze Entering Exhaust

When oil or antifreeze enters the exhaust system and contacts the hot core of the converter the oil and antifreeze will burn off leaving carbon deposits. The carbon deposits will coat the core of the converter thus reducing the catalytic converter's ability to convert from harmful emissions into harmless compounds. As the carbon deposits continue to accumulate, the pores in the ceramic catalyst will become restricted and block exhaust flow through the exhaust system. The resulting increased backpressure will result is a loss of power and overheated engine components. Possible causes are worn piston rings, faulty valve seals or valve guides, blown head gasket or intake gaskets, or warped engine components.


4. Malfunctioning Oxygen Sensor


The oxygen sensor measures the amount of oxygen present in the exhaust gas. Depending on the voltage generated by the oxygen sensor, the engine management system will change the air/fuel ratio to obtain the desired oxygen level present in the exhaust gas. A malfunctioning oxygen sensor sending an erroneous reading to the engine control system can cause a too rich or too lean condition. A rich condition will cause the converter to overheat and melt down from the unburned fuel being ignited while a lean condition can result in a misfire that can lead to the same result. Oxygen sensors wear out and need to be changed per your auto manufacturers time and mileage limits.


5. Broken Exhaust Hangers Or Misaligned Exhaust


An exhaust system that is misaligned or allowed to rattle will cause the fragile ceramic catalyst inside the converter to break apart. When the core breaks or becomes loose in the converter the brittle ceramic catalyst will continue to break up into smaller pieces that will eventually block the flow of the exhaust. This increased backpressure will lead to loss of power and heat build up


Probably from running rich.
 
No power above 2500 rpms is the main symptom. I've explained my symptoms to 3 independent groups and all have said the same thing, some Honda specific people and others who were more general.


The plugs look like a complete combustion is happening, though.

[ December 16, 2004, 03:53 PM: Message edited by: Thomas Pyrek ]
 
If you suspect a plugged cat, check up under the vehicle at night after it has reached normal operating temp. A plugged cat will usually glow red. Not the most scientific test, but it's a good start.
 
That was the plan. Being at college I don't have to drive very much so I've been sitting on that for about a week.
 
quote:

car and checking it out it seems as if the vehicle has a plugged catalytic converter

How did you come to this conclusion? I've seen plugged or defective cats act in two ways (I'm sure there are more). Either you can't attain anything, in any gear, above a certain rpm...at any time, or, you don't have any power after warm up.


What are your symptoms??
 
Well it helps to have an oil burning GM product with a cheap cat to start. Then you add 5W30 and some silly almost insane oil life monitor system that recomends 9,000-17,000 miles oil change intervals.

I sold a 1986 4Runner that still did not have a plugged up cat after all these years. SO it would seem that haveing an oil burning engine is almost a prereq. for a pluged up cat. The next thing to have is a dirty emmission system.

Seriously with that many miles it a posability. I would look for a vaccum leak first. You can look down the cat once you remove it and if held up to the light you should be able to see through it. You can also remove it. If the power comes back with it off you know it is pluged.

They make a tool for checking back pressure but I doubt it would be worth your time.


offtopic.gif
I am just trying to push you chevy guys buttons!!
P.S. I am now puting on my Nomex and asbestous long under wear!! Let the flames fly!
 
No flames from me John, but I do trust the OLM, but only with a fully synthetic oil. I've got GC in there now, was using M1 before. I wouldn't trust it with a dino or blend.

BTW, my 3800 uses .5 qts between ~6k changes. Oil burning indeed!
 
John where did it say he had a GM product? Not sure why your throwing all that nonsense in their. None of my GM cars have ever used more then a half quart in one OCI. And I've never had a clogged cat.

Wonder where your getting this stuff from?

-T
 
Perhaps that is as a result of having a catalyst system design for quick warm up. Maybe the very things that let it warm up quickly (cat close to engine, etc) make it run TOO hot when it actually does, hence the extra fuel. I do know rotaries aren't inherently emissions friendly, so that there's a weirdness associated with the emissions systems does not surprise me. It does explain the mid to high teens MPG that owners are getting.
 
Yes, Brian. After it's in this condition, it should show a decreasing no load vacuum as the rpms are raised. If the vacuum is for the most part unchanged, then it is NOT the cat ..or at least from it being plugged.
 
T-Keith, He did not mention anything about a GM product! I did!!He asked what it takes to plug up a cat. Seeing how they use cheap cats, have sloppy egr functioning and tend to burn oil like crazy with just about all of their current engines other then the good old Buick 3.8, Vortec 4200 and the ecotec.

I guess it is a good thing copper has not been linked to killing cats. or GM would be in even more trouble!
 
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