Trailer bearing grease lumps?

[irv]

Last year at the end of the snowmobile season I noticed what looked like a black oily/watery fluid coming from my right side wheel bearing.

I greased the bearing with the bearing buddy to see how much I could push out.
I managed to get some out but ran out of time figuring I would look again in the fall.

Today, after getting the trailer home, I had another look and noticed it wasn't near as bad (must have got most out in the spring?)

I planned on replacing the bearings but thought I would pump them full of grease to see what I would get and today, after doing that, I also got some lumpy/jello type lumps out of it?

I continued to pump with my new grease (Amsoil Water Resistant)until all I got was it after pushing out the old.

Just curious what this might be?
Is it signs of incompatible greases, or old grease or something else?
I bought the trailer used so I have no idea what the previous owner used but I have been using the Amsoil grease for aout 3yrs now (Just a few pumps every now and then)

The wheels turn freely and there is no play or noise anywhere while spinning the hubs.
Should I go a head and replace the bearings even they feel/sound good or do you think it is good enough that I probably pumped out all the old grease?

 

[spasm3]

sounds like incompatible grease. i would clean and inspect the bearings,races, replace it the races look worn.

 

[chad8]

+1 sounds like incompatible grease
wash the bearings in solvent and inspect with a mag glass.
check the races for scoring
I bet its fine . Just stick to one lube.
lots of good ones out there.
M-1, pennzoil marine ,

 

[irv]

Originally Posted By: chad8
+1 sounds like incompatible grease
wash the bearings in solvent and inspect with a mag glass.
check the races for scoring
I bet its fine . Just stick to one lube.
lots of good ones out there.
M-1, pennzoil marine ,


If I have time, I will take them off and in all likelyhood will replace them if I am going that far into it.

Just seeing the oily/runny liquid last year concerned me but after seeing that hardly any was remaining when I pumped them full yesterday, I feel much better, especially since they rotate smooth with no signs of noise or looseness.

Out of curiousity, what would be a good bearing to replace these one's with?
Thanks for your help
(P.S. I will be strictly running Amsoil Water Resistant grease from here on in)

 

[Ken2]

And, throw those Bearing Buddies away. They do not flush the grease through the bearings. The just maintain a spring loaded reservoir of grease in the cap. The intent is for boat trailers when you back the warm bearing into cool water, it'll suck grease out of the reservoir instead of sucking water from the lake into the bearing.

There should be no special need for water resistant grease if your seals are good and if the cap fits. Nothing wrong with it, but probably not needed unless you're dunking the hubs into water.

If there is any sign of the smallest pitting on the rollers or the races, renew them. Always renew the seal. Pack the bearings about 1/3 full of grease. Keep the used cups and cones together as a set--they've worn in together. Tighten the lock nut to set the bearings (I use one hand on a foot-long wrench while turning the wheel), then back off the lock nut. Timken wants up to 0.007" end play, and no end play will cause overheating.

 

[chad8]

Originally Posted By: Ken2
And, throw those Bearing Buddies away. They do not flush the grease through the bearings. The just maintain a spring loaded reservoir of grease in the cap. The intent is for boat trailers when you back the warm bearing into cool water, it'll suck grease out of the reservoir instead of sucking water from the lake into the bearing.

There should be no special need for water resistant grease if your seals are good and if the cap fits. Nothing wrong with it, but probably not needed unless you're dunking the hubs into water.

If there is any sign of the smallest pitting on the rollers or the races, renew them. Always renew the seal. Pack the bearings about 1/3 full of grease. Keep the used cups and cones together as a set--they've worn in together. Tighten the lock nut to set the bearings (I use one hand on a foot-long wrench while turning the wheel), then back off the lock nut. Timken wants up to 0.007" end play, and no end play will cause overheating.


Ken, I see that you know your stuff , but for colder climates with lots of snow, I still like Marine greases for several reasons , especially synthetic ones.
1) good temperature resistance
2) very good rust resistant
3) Good shear properties
4) Longer overall life
5) better water shielding

A snowmobile trailer will go through deep snow and invariably there will be snow higher than the axles . it creates the same conditions as "water dunking" . It makes sense to protect as well as possible.
As far as Bearing buddies. i have had trailers with and without. I have fixed the damage from mostly trailers without them on my stuff and friends junk too. For the average person who is not as diligent about trailer maintenance , they make putting a little fresh grease in an easy chore. Seals do leak over time and before you know it , you run a bearing dry and hot .Buddies keep the grease pressure against the bearing. I have helped too many people at the side of the road, at boat launches and in back yards to not use them. I recommend them to all my friends too.
In addition , the other brands , Fulton and the rest, do not stay on as well. The lip is not as deep and the machining seems of lower quality.
I have been there too. Buying a dust cap on the 401 at Western auto during the blackout of 04 cause one blew off.

 

[irv]

Originally Posted By: Ken2
And, throw those Bearing Buddies away. They do not flush the grease through the bearings. The just maintain a spring loaded reservoir of grease in the cap. The intent is for boat trailers when you back the warm bearing into cool water, it'll suck grease out of the reservoir instead of sucking water from the lake into the bearing.

There should be no special need for water resistant grease if your seals are good and if the cap fits. Nothing wrong with it, but probably not needed unless you're dunking the hubs into water.

If there is any sign of the smallest pitting on the rollers or the races, renew them. Always renew the seal. Pack the bearings about 1/3 full of grease. Keep the used cups and cones together as a set--they've worn in together. Tighten the lock nut to set the bearings (I use one hand on a foot-long wrench while turning the wheel), then back off the lock nut. Timken wants up to 0.007" end play, and no end play will cause overheating.

I decided to replace them yesterday as I figured since I had them off why not?
Looking at them carefully, I think they would have been fine but I did notice some slight marks/shadowing on the right side one which had the oily residue leaking out?

I also meant to say, my hubs are not Bearing Buddies, but rahter "Easy Lube hubs" Much better than just the buddies but I also agree with Chad that they are better than nothing and will help!
http://sltrailers.com/What_are_EZ_Lube_Hubs_.html

Thanks for your help!

 

[Ken2]

EZ-Lube and similar hubs are very good, but not worry free. As you see in this diagram, the grease first pushes against the seal, changes direction, and then flows through the bearing and out the relief ports. If the grease gun volume is too great or the grease too cold and stiff, the seal can get pushed out. Also, the seal is special and needs replacement with a similar special seal. The bearings still require periodic inspection.

http://www.al-kousa.com/images/anihub.gif