Fuel Power, spark plug picture

[newtoncd8]

Originally posted by T-Keith: It's well known that Bosch plugs have less plugs to cover more applications. That means that the heat ranges tend to be farther from Ideal. Heat ranges matter more in Forced induction and high compression engines. Perhaps their plug for the Toyota is spot on. -T Maybe some Toyota's get along ok with them. The 3.0L might be ok, but in the 3.4L used in the trucks the +4's are known for thowing codes. I've seen no evidence that anything works better than stock in those engines...


I have a good buddy that is a Master Toyota tech........he refers to Bosch plugs as 'Botched'.....says they don't do well in Toyota engines. ND or NGK is what he recommends.

 

[T-Keith]

Hey guys I'm on your side, but someone posted a picture showing a Bosch plug from a Toyota with 100k miles on it. Obviously it worked decently for him.

 

[kevm14]

quote:

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Originally posted by TitaniumGT:
I would stop using 93 octane and use the rec. 91 octane instead. +2 octane numbers (20 points) is ALOT. and that could be the cause of all your carbon problems.

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In theory, this is a possibility, but under the circumstances, not a chance. Especially since 91 isn't available in the northeast. Most cars that require premium fuel specify "91" as the requirement/recommendation. Thus, there'd be a lot of carboned up cars running around in areas that have 93 as the premium option.

I'd be more inclined to subscribe to your theory if my vehicle was an 85/86/87 octane car and I was using like sunoco 94 octane. But that's not the case, and even then, I don't think that you could guarantee that a car would carbon itself up soley due to choice of fuel.

 

[kenw]

quote:

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Originally posted by Curtis Newton:
Originally posted by T-Keith: It's well known that Bosch plugs have less plugs to cover more applications. That means that the heat ranges tend to be farther from Ideal. Heat ranges matter more in Forced induction and high compression engines. Perhaps their plug for the Toyota is spot on. -T Maybe some Toyota's get along ok with them. The 3.0L might be ok, but in the 3.4L used in the trucks the +4's are known for thowing codes. I've seen no evidence that anything works better than stock in those engines...


I have a good buddy that is a Master Toyota tech........he refers to Bosch plugs as 'Botched'.....says they don't do well in Toyota engines. ND or NGK is what he recommends.

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every ricer I've had the opportunity of laughing at says the same..... I would rather take the opinion of someone who is a bit more independent in his thinking.

As a real-world and degreed engineer (with over 25 years of experience) there are 2 words I rarely use: always and never.

 

[farang]

quote:

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Originally posted by kenw:
[QB]As a real-world and degreed engineer (with over 25 years of experience) there are 2 words I rarely use: always and never.

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In a true/false question, always and never make the statement "false"

 

[Russ]

quote:

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Originally posted by Curtis Newton:
Originally posted by T-Keith: It's well known that Bosch plugs have less plugs to cover more applications. That means that the heat ranges tend to be farther from Ideal. Heat ranges matter more in Forced induction and high compression engines. Perhaps their plug for the Toyota is spot on. -T Maybe some Toyota's get along ok with them. The 3.0L might be ok, but in the 3.4L used in the trucks the +4's are known for thowing codes. I've seen no evidence that anything works better than stock in those engines...


I have a good buddy that is a Master Toyota tech........he refers to Bosch plugs as 'Botched'.....says they don't do well in Toyota engines. ND or NGK is what he recommends.

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I know a couple of Mitsubishi techs. Same kind of stories out of them. Vehicle comes into the shop running like crap, CEL is on, etc. Check the plugs - Bosch. Replace with OEM - all symptoms are gone.

 

[Fitz]

Did you say that the previous owner of your Camaro replaced the intake gasket? Hmmm-you know what might be going on? And I know this from experience-

I had a Chevy V8 with a leaky intake gasket-it would suck oil fumes (not straight oil) out of the lifter valley and into the combustion chambers, and then burn them. And all of my plugs, after 10,000 miles, would look like that. The thing used to ping like crazy-the O2 sensor would read the burnt oil fumes as having too rich a mixture, and then signal the computer to lean the mixture out.

And that V8 NEVER used any oil (off the dipstick, anyway). All engine oil vaporizes to some extent, so even if your engine oil level by the dipstick is OK, you can still be burning oil fumes(with hydrocarbons, 1 mL of liquid can vaporize into as much as 200 mL of vapor).

Have you checked your engine vacuum at idle? The fact that you use high octane gas may allow you to get by without having spark knock, and still have a vacuum leak-

Just my 2 cents-

Fitz

 

[kevm14]

That's the 2nd recommendation I've had to check the intake bolt torque (hopefully the gasket isn't ruined). A dealer performed the work but I realize that means nothing, except I'd expect a chevy dealer to know more about LT1s than, say, Joe's Garage. I will retorque the bolts next time I get a chance.