Spark Plug Recommendations - 3.0L Fusion/Milan

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My milan is about 5 years old now and has 75k miles on it. Has the 3.0L v6 engine. I'm concerned about the plugs being difficult to remove if I wait another year till I get to the manual recommended 90k miles, plus I have some free time this weekend to get it done.

What has anyone used for replacements? There is a Motorcraft platinum plug available for ~$3. Is this the same as what was originally installed most likely? Could I expect another 75k miles before I'd have to worry about replacing it again if I used this plug?

There's a host of platinum and iridium plugs also available...would I be better off (better = longer lasting for me) with iridium since these back three plugs are going to be a pain to change out.

Appreciate anyone's experience & advice with this engine.
 
A plug from NDK or Denso has good plating on the threads, which is said to reduce the chance of corrosion which causes them to freeze to the heads.
 
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I used the NGK Lasers in my Duratec 3.0, ITR5F-13. Given access to the back plugs, I think it's worth it. My OEM plugs were pretty worn @ 75K. I pulled one the front Lasers just recently (now w/about 65K on them), and they'll easily go to 100K. They're wearing way better than the OEM.

Remember to pick up a PCV, since changing it is a lot easier with the IM removed. I also replaced my IM gaskets and the coil boots, and the PCV hose. The boots in the back were pretty soft from the extra heat (fronts seemed new). The lower IM gaskets seemed pretty distorted, so I think it was probably good to change vs. reuse. The PCV hose seemed pretty soft, and it also sees a lot of heat.

None of the extra stuff *needed* to be done, but access is so much easier w/the manifold removed, it seems like a good time to do it.
 
I have NGK G-power in my Duratec/MZI 3.0.

No discernible difference in performance between the NGKs and Motorcrafts. I just like NGK better.

Agree on doing the PCV valve while you have the IM off. Couple of extra seconds with the manifold off. Pain in the bottom with it on. The boots on my rear bank looked fine every time I did the plugs (change mine every 60,000 now)

Take a look at the thermostat housing while you have the intake boot off. My car has more mileage but the plastic thermostat housing failed at about 5 years. If it is leaking, it might be cheaper at Mazda (mine was)
 
Originally Posted By: bdcardinal
Motorcraft spark plugs are made by a few different companies. I have seen Autolite, NGK, Denso. All depends really.


What he said haha

Some vehicles run well only on the OEM plugs. The way I look at it is that if the car went 75k without any issues why not replace them with the same.
 
This is the only Motorcraft plug I see available for my car. Probably about as close to OEM (if not exact) as I can get I would assume? For $3 a pop I agree that it makes sense to go with this plug.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/...raft_11390012-p

Thanks for all the other maintenance suggestions, some good ideas. I will look into replacing some of the other things while the IM off. (a pcv valve for this engine is $43!?!!?)
 
Originally Posted By: Bgallagher
Originally Posted By: bdcardinal
Motorcraft spark plugs are made by a few different companies. I have seen Autolite, NGK, Denso. All depends really.


What he said haha

Some vehicles run well only on the OEM plugs. The way I look at it is that if the car went 75k without any issues why not replace them with the same.


Kind of what I was thinking, and they are about half the price...
 
At one time, Motorcraft and Autolites were made by Honeywell on the same assembly line.

The only way to differentiate the two were by the markings on the insulator. Same insulator, same number of flashover ribs, same black oxide shell...

Since the purchase of Autolite by the Rank Group,
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who knows.

The Motorcraft plugs recommended for the Duratec30 now are a different plug than the O.E. Motorcrafts that came out of my Mazda.

In fact they've changed twice.

The O.E. Plugs looked like Autolite platinums. Platinum pads, black oxide shell, same insulator...etc....
I still have a set of SP-479/AGSF22WM plugs that were spec'd as a replacement for the OE plugs. They look an awful lot like a Federal Mogul Champion product.
The replacement for that is a fine-wire Platinum SP-523 that looks a little like an NGK G-Power
 
yep. part number has been changed 2X on my car, 1X on a 2008 Milan.

Straight from FordPartsGiant.com :Service plug may differ from original....
 
Yeah that PCV valve has a heated element in it, and Ford is very proud of it. I changed mine on our '06 about a month ago, along with the plugs. Motorcraft is the way I went with the plugs also.
 
Well I picked up a set of the motorcraft plugs and intake manifold gaskets from advance yesterday. Plan on doing this tomorrow so hopefully it'll go smooth for me...
 
Originally Posted By: badger05
Well I picked up a set of the motorcraft plugs and intake manifold gaskets from advance yesterday. Plan on doing this tomorrow so hopefully it'll go smooth for me...
take lots o' pics!!!
 
Originally Posted By: GC4lunch
Your Milan Duratec 3.0 V6 is the same engine as the engine in the Duratec 3.0 Mazda6. The answer to your question is here: http://forum.mazda6club.com/3-0l-v6/257147-spark-plugs.html#post3465431

The most important part of that post is the quotation from NGK (a major manufacturer of premium spark plugs) at the end.

The link above itself links to a longer explanation here: discussion of specific spark plugs


Just fyi to anyone, if you go to the beginning of the second link that GC posted there is a pretty good walkthru of what needs to be disconnected to remove the intake manifold and access the rear plugs. Took me a few hours yesterday to do mine going pretty slow and methodically. I get a little nervous threading in those new plugs...
 
Here's a pic of a new plug vs old one. The old ones are the original plugs from the Milan w/about 75k miles and 5 years on them.

2myn8z7.jpg


Here are the 6 old plugs. Left is front of car and top is passenger side of car if it matters. The plugs definitely took some torque to remove and some were more corroded in than others. I'm glad I replaced them and used a dab of antiseize when installing the new ones. Gaps on old plugs were .060-.065 inches. Comments?

d42zb.jpg
 
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