Tools for spark plug change 2004 Taurus Duratec

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I just ordered 6 Autolite Iridium (XP104) spark plugs for the grand sum of $14 after rebate.

I thought that for that cost, I may as well put them on my almost 9 year old / 70k Taurus sooner rather than later and enjoy the improvement.

I've never done spark plugs before and need tools. The instructions for my vehicle are here:

http://www.taurusclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Changing_the_Spark_Plugs_on_the_Duratec

The backs are known to be tricky. So it is recommended to have some various bits and pieces as follows

A spark plug socket, 8 inch extension and ratchet will reach the two plugs closest to the passenger's side of the car.

In order to reach the plug closest to the driver's side of the car you will need the socket, ratchet, 2 four inch extensions and a Universal joint to go between the extensions. There is an obstruction in line with where you want to be so you need the U joint.

Where and what brand is my best option for these tools?

Is there anything else you recommend for someone doing this for their first time?
 
I am not familiar with your car but I find it helps to use a "locking" extension. It will lock into the spark plug socket so it doesn't fall off. Another useful thing is to put anti seize onto the threads to prevent seizing. Some people will buy about a foot of rubber hose that the top of the plug will fit snugly into and use it to start the plugs. Good luck.
 
Just go to harbor freight this friday. Show them the list. they will hook u up. Lifetime warranty tools. cheap.
 
When I've replaced the back three plugs on other Duratecs, though they were in Escapes, I removed the upper intake manifold. It actually wasn't as bad as it sounds. Remove the wiring harness and set it off to the side. I believe it goes toward the drivers side. Then I believe there were 8 bolts for the intake, a couple bolts for the EGR valve, then it slips off somewhat awkwardly.

Then you've got plenty of room to get to the back plugs. The intake gaskets are reusable, or at least they were on the Escapes. Also...if it has coil on plug ignition, if you've had to replace any coil packs, I always put the newest ones on the back bank. The older ones are more likely to go out, so you save yourself sometime when they do if you put them on the front.

Those heads aren't quite as fragile as the modular V8 motors, but using a little antiseize is still a good idea. A little dielectric grease on the end, and you're good to go.
 
Originally Posted By: chad8
Just go to harbor freight this friday. Show them the list. they will hook u up. Lifetime warranty tools. cheap.
Awesome.
 
If its anything like my 2000 Century was good luck! Splitting the welded on spark plug boots on the side of the engine facing the firewall was quite a task. Thank goodness rolling the engine forward was easier than I thought.
 
Always start the spark plugs by hand; use a decent dielectric grease on the wires; pull the wire off by the boots; change one spark plug at a time (to keep the wires straight); do not over torque and apply the antiseize.

Electrical tape on the socket and extension works the same as a locking extension. You will be using these tools again, so you should buy something that will last - SK, Wright, Armstrong, or older USA Craftsman. Hand tools at HF are not a good value.
 
It *is* possible to do a Duratec Taurus without removing the UIM ... very unlikely, though. I know of maybe one or two that were able to do it. That engine is really shoehorned in the bay ...

Do the front three first to get a feel for it, then move on to the back.

Be careful to not strip the plug housing. I know a few people that have stripped them on the Duratec
 
Originally Posted By: Gabe

Electrical tape on the socket and extension works the same as a locking extension. You will be using these tools again, so you should buy something that will last - SK, Wright, Armstrong, or older USA Craftsman. Hand tools at HF are not a good value.


That's news to me. I've been happy with my HF hand tools. Most on their site get good reviews. Now that Craftsman has gone Chinese there is no reason to pay the Sears premium for the stuff when you can go to HF and get the same tools cheaper and with the lifetime warranty.

That being said I've done the plugs on the wife's Escape with the Duratec and its not that bad. You may have to remove the intake manifold to get to the rears but that's pretty easy. Hardest part was getting the EGR tube disconnected and reconnected.
 
I have two of these cars/engines. The OEM Motorcraft (autolite) platinums last 100,000 miles with ease.
The intake manifold has a reuseable gasket. Not hard to get off. I did one of mine and used the Motorcraft plats again with a little anti-seize. No trouble getting any of them out with regular tools I already had. I also replaced the PCV while I had the manifold off.
 
Quote:
Now that Craftsman has gone Chinese there is no reason to pay the Sears premium for the stuff when you can go to HF and get the same tools cheaper and with the lifetime warranty.


OT, but I have found HF is very inconsistent. Some tools are fine, others are junk. I have one set of sockets I got there that are almost unuseable due to the sloppy fit, while I have others that look and act just as good as Craftsman. Strangely, I rather like the Stanley sockets and tools you can get at WM.
 
Go buy a good flex head 3/8" ratchet. it will be your most used tool.
Craftsman is very good, easily available, and has a lifetime replacement - just bring in the broke one and walk out with a new one.
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Go buy a good flex head 3/8" ratchet. it will be your most used tool.
Craftsman is very good, easily available, and has a lifetime replacement - just bring in the broke one and walk out with a new one.


That is my go to wrench, well worth the money.
 
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