john deere polyurea grease for firearms

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i like to use grease on my semi-auto pistol rails and my ak's rails and bolt lugs. i have been using some slick 50 one grease but i'm almost out. i have some john deere polyurea synthetic grease that i was wondering what y'all thought about it being used for my purposes. i would like maximum protection from metal to metal contact with minimal wear. also i wonder if this grease has any ingredient in it that might harm the finish on my various firearms ranging from polymer glocks to arsenal ak's with the notorious easily stripped paint which is why they only recommend clp.
thanks,
whitearrow
 
It's funny you asked this question as I was thinking about asking the same.

What product do you have? The stuff I have is from their corn head grease line. It's an NLGI grade 0 and has all the goodies in it, including EP protection.
 
the eric,if you are referring to the jd polyurea grease. all i know is it is jd's best grease with moly in it and its jd green to boot LOL! not sure on the corn head grease. somebody please enlighten me.
thanks,
whitearrow
 
Originally Posted By: whitearrow
why not the winter pablo? too thick/viscous?


Outdoors? No doubt about it. A #2 grease will not be good in winter conditions for most any firearm.
 
alright pablo please explain your theory as my $16,000 john deere tractor has it in all of its zerk fittings,which is factory recommended,and it stays outdoors all the time whether winter or summer.
thanks and please enlighten a brother,
whitearrow
 
Your tractor has enough power to overcome the resistance of the grease, your guns may not. It can slow the slide or bolts of semi-autos to the point that they will not cycle. If you want to use grease it needs to be as thin of a coat as possible. I am talking about completely wiped off thin.
 
Originally Posted By: AMC
Originally Posted By: Tempest
It appears to be a very good grease. I've seen this at many different retailers. I think that NGLI #2 grease is much thicker than is needed on a gun. A #1 would be much better.


A word of caution on using automotive grease for firearms. Make sure the grease has a smooth, creamy texture rather than a tacky, sticky, stringy/leggy texture if you are going to use it for guns. A grease that has a tacky texture and is over applied can actually cause a malfunction in weapons that require reciprocating mass to function properly. If you over apply a a tacky grease, you will actually INcrease friction between the moving parts and tighten up tolerances at the same time, almost like gluing the parts together. In the case of auto pistols, this will make the slide noticeably harder to rack and slower during its movement. This means any semi auto and rimfires especially.

Another thing to consider is that most automotive grease is designed to be used in a mostly sealed environment and replaced at intervals. Most greases will dry out badly if left in the open air and not worked frequently, like they would be if applied to a firearm.

I made this mistake with my cz-75 once. I applied dabs of lithium complex wheel bearing grease everywhere I normally applied oil, put the gun back together and put it back in the safe. A few days later I went to rack the slide to load it and found the slide [censored] near glued to the frame. After giving it a quick jerk, the slide opened normally but it felt much harder to rack than usual. I knew this wasn't right and immediately cleaned all the grease off and re-applied oil. Once I did that, everything was back to normal and the slide was very easy to rack again.

In general, my advise is simply to not use grease on semi-autos unless you have a garand operating system. Examples being the garand, m1a, mini-14 series etc.
 
Originally Posted By: whitearrow
alright pablo please explain your theory as my $16,000 john deere tractor has it in all of its zerk fittings,which is factory recommended,and it stays outdoors all the time whether winter or summer.
thanks and please enlighten a brother,
whitearrow


Not a "theory". Very much proven. Grease is fine for your large tractor and heavy moving parts. Gun parts are noticeably lighter and most times much quicker. Thick cold grease will interfere with movement in the cold to cause all sorts of timing issues. Sometimes even too much oil will cause the same problems.

Use what you want, just warning a brother.
 
Originally Posted By: AVB
Isn't that corn head grease the kind that turns to liquid when heated?

Kind of.






Originally Posted By: whitearrow
the eric,if you are referring to the jd polyurea grease. all i know is it is jd's best grease with moly in it and its jd green to boot LOL! not sure on the corn head grease. somebody please enlighten me.
thanks,
whitearrow


No, not their regular grease, corn head grease- it's thinner than normal greases.
 
So if my polyurea grease is too thick what would be a good grease to use for my application? Pablo you said my Jd grease is a #2 grease. What # grease do I need?
Thanks
Whitearrow
 
Originally Posted By: whitearrow
So if my polyurea grease is too thick what would be a good grease to use for my application? Pablo you said my Jd grease is a #2 grease. What # grease do I need?
Thanks
Whitearrow


I didn't say that. I have no idea what grease you have. I just said a #2 will be too thick. The video has a #0, grease which would be better. I just say use an oil where your gun manufacturer says use an oil.
 
Sorry Pablo guess I misunderstood you when you said that a #2 grease would be too thick. I figured that you had a bead on what I was talking about or you wouldn't have said #2 grease. Thanks for all your input.
Whitearrow
 
When I said #2 grease, I was meant in more general terms - and factually a #2 grease would be too viscous in the cold. I did not actually know the John Deere Polyurea grease is a #0. Seems like that would be much better. Again, I still think an oil should be used if that is what is called for, but on stainless slides, a grease is often very beneficial.
 
Originally Posted By: Pablo
When I said #2 grease, I was meant in more general terms - and factually a #2 grease would be too viscous in the cold. I did not actually know the John Deere Polyurea grease is a #0. Seems like that would be much better. Again, I still think an oil should be used if that is what is called for, but on stainless slides, a grease is often very beneficial.


It's hard to say what grade of grease the op was talking about as John Deere markets several grease products.

I would also tend to agree on using the correct lube for the job. I think the question was if would be okay or even beneficial to use these grease products where a grease would typically be called for.
 
Originally Posted By: The_Eric


It's hard to say what grade of grease the op was talking about as John Deere markets several grease products.

I would also tend to agree on using the correct lube for the job. I think the question was if would be okay or even beneficial to use these grease products where a grease would typically be called for.


I would say they would work fine.

Another thing to think about is smell. Some industrial greases are a bit stinky.
 
Originally Posted By: Pablo
Originally Posted By: The_Eric


It's hard to say what grade of grease the op was talking about as John Deere markets several grease products.

I would also tend to agree on using the correct lube for the job. I think the question was if would be okay or even beneficial to use these grease products where a grease would typically be called for.


I would say they would work fine.

Another thing to think about is smell. Some industrial greases are a bit stinky.


You're right about that! The Deere corn head grease has a distinct gear oil smell. The Lubriplate 105 however, doesn't.
 
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