LM Mos2

Status
Not open for further replies.
The golden rule is always is, "If in doubt read the instructions". Your engine manual and power train warranty probably say, "Do not use oil additives".
If you want to spend more money on engine oil, then simply buy a better full synthetic oil that is approved for your engine, but do make sure you don't breach the terms of the power train warranty, as it's bound to say something about oil.
Castrol GTX is a very good conventional oil and it would not benefit much, if at all from adding a large amount of Moly and you risk upsetting the function of the different additives which might have longer term consequences.
Moly is a very effective additive used in many engine oils, but just because a little Moly as part of a well designed additives pack that is included in an oil is good, it does not mean throwing a whole can in is even better. There are several different forms of Moly in use and in large amounts some can turn the oil corrosive whilst others stop the detergent additives functioning causing varnish or sludge. Stangely enough some of the top full synthetic oils like the Liqui Moly Synthoil I use do not contain any Moly.
 
Last edited:
I would not use it in a brand new engine. Put 10,000 miles on it at least.

My UOA show lower wear numbers, but they are probably inconclusive: They drop about 3ppm.
 
toyota62, use lubegards bio engine prot. far better and it uses an organic moly and plenty of boron and plenty of calcium as a detergent...mos2 (inorganic moly) not for engine internals!!eventually falls out or off of metals. you can get lubegard bio at napa they can order it.for some reason some people on here swear by it even after people such as molecule says mos2 is for greases only
 
Last edited:
With a brand new engine, I would wait until you have 10k miles to add any moly to the oil. The cylinder wall need to 'marry' the rings before you add any additional friction modifiers. FWIW--Oldtommy
 
If you want to use either LM MOS2 or Lubegards BioTech Engine Protection, you should dose no more than 1 oz per liter/quart of oil to see how it works, don't use a full can.
 
Originally Posted By: skyship
The golden rule is always is, "If in doubt read the instructions". Your engine manual and power train warranty probably say, "Do not use oil additives".
If you want to spend more money on engine oil, then simply buy a better full synthetic oil that is approved for your engine, but do make sure you don't breach the terms of the power train warranty, as it's bound to say something about oil.
Castrol GTX is a very good conventional oil and it would not benefit much, if at all from adding a large amount of Moly and you risk upsetting the function of the different additives which might have longer term consequences.
Moly is a very effective additive used in many engine oils, but just because a little Moly as part of a well designed additives pack that is included in an oil is good, it does not mean throwing a whole can in is even better. There are several different forms of Moly in use and in large amounts some can turn the oil corrosive whilst others stop the detergent additives functioning causing varnish or sludge. Stangely enough some of the top full synthetic oils like the Liqui Moly Synthoil I use do not contain any Moly.


Why not choose to read the instructions on the Lubro Moly instead?
And how do you know how much benefit there would be to adding Lubro Moly to GTX?
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Originally Posted By: skyship
The golden rule is always is, "If in doubt read the instructions". Your engine manual and power train warranty probably say, "Do not use oil additives".
If you want to spend more money on engine oil, then simply buy a better full synthetic oil that is approved for your engine, but do make sure you don't breach the terms of the power train warranty, as it's bound to say something about oil.
Castrol GTX is a very good conventional oil and it would not benefit much, if at all from adding a large amount of Moly and you risk upsetting the function of the different additives which might have longer term consequences.
Moly is a very effective additive used in many engine oils, but just because a little Moly as part of a well designed additives pack that is included in an oil is good, it does not mean throwing a whole can in is even better. There are several different forms of Moly in use and in large amounts some can turn the oil corrosive whilst others stop the detergent additives functioning causing varnish or sludge. Stangely enough some of the top full synthetic oils like the Liqui Moly Synthoil I use do not contain any Moly.


Why not choose to read the instructions on the Lubro Moly instead?
And how do you know how much benefit there would be to adding Lubro Moly to GTX?


I think I would rather trust instructions from the company that makes the engine than the snake oil, although Liqui Moly (Lubro Moly in the US) are a better company than the other snake oil producers.
I've read quite a few UOA results showing before and after results for use of various anti wear additives and when the oil used lacked additives they did sometimes show an improvement in results, but when the snake oil was added to a good quality oil it either made no difference or the result was worse. The comparisons of different oil types is also interesting because the oils that don't contain any Moly like LM's most expensive full synthetic Synthoils produce results just as good as oils that have a high Moly content.
There is more interest in the performance of Ceretec and the research into nano particles in terms of new additives, but I expect if a new additive formula is developed that is effective, one of the major oil companies will buy the company that developed it for their own use as a new additive.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: skyship
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Originally Posted By: skyship
The golden rule is always is, "If in doubt read the instructions". Your engine manual and power train warranty probably say, "Do not use oil additives".
If you want to spend more money on engine oil, then simply buy a better full synthetic oil that is approved for your engine, but do make sure you don't breach the terms of the power train warranty, as it's bound to say something about oil.
Castrol GTX is a very good conventional oil and it would not benefit much, if at all from adding a large amount of Moly and you risk upsetting the function of the different additives which might have longer term consequences.
Moly is a very effective additive used in many engine oils, but just because a little Moly as part of a well designed additives pack that is included in an oil is good, it does not mean throwing a whole can in is even better. There are several different forms of Moly in use and in large amounts some can turn the oil corrosive whilst others stop the detergent additives functioning causing varnish or sludge. Stangely enough some of the top full synthetic oils like the Liqui Moly Synthoil I use do not contain any Moly.


Why not choose to read the instructions on the Lubro Moly instead?
And how do you know how much benefit there would be to adding Lubro Moly to GTX?


I think I would rather trust instructions from the company that makes the engine than the snake oil, although Liqui Moly (Lubro Moly in the US) are a better company than the other snake oil producers.
I've read quite a few UOA results showing before and after results for use of various anti wear additives and when the oil used lacked additives they did sometimes show an improvement in results, but when the snake oil was added to a good quality oil it either made no difference or the result was worse. The comparisons of different oil types is also interesting because the oils that don't contain any Moly like LM's most expensive full synthetic Synthoils produce results just as good as oils that have a high Moly content.
There is more interest in the performance of Ceretec and the research into nano particles in terms of new additives, but I expect if a new additive formula is developed that is effective, one of the major oil companies will buy the company that developed it for their own use as a new additive.


You're still telling us nothing. It is very easy to hand pick from the UOA reports to back up the point you're trying to prove or disprove. Just like an oil company can post test results their product succeeded at, and disregard tests it flopped at. Or better yet, make up their own test, that even a good shampoo succeeds at. I'm sure there are other tricks they use. Maybe someone can post one.
 
Last edited:
Just as he hand picked tire tests to prove his own point he is now picking others.

Tons of opinions but no incontrovertible facts here.

Additives are always a grey area, but IMO anyone who places blind faith in Mfgr recommendations ONLY is limiting themselves to what the Mfgr intends. Anyone get this?

Note that in the exact same way that oils vary so do additives. Some are certainly better than others, but it is entirely dependent on your USAGE.

Everyone is different, and there are too many differing engine designs to list, so no one oil, additive, or service schedule will ever fit all cars on the road.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top