GT's Running Volvo thread. The 00 XC

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If you could post a picture of the possibly replaced T-belt, that would be a great aid to everyone.

A good T-belt job almost always includes the serpentine belt on these. What does the serpentine look like?

As I mentioned before, unless you are ABSOLUTELY sure the T-belt has been replaced, do not take ANY chances. The risk is just too great.

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Just a few other observations (not that you should do any until the T-belt is done):

Anybody even suggesting belt dressings on this is a hack and should be immediately kept away from the car. This is not a '61 Dodge with V-belts.

Yellow coolant? Not good. Use only the genuine blue Volvo coolant in these, which is best for the engine metallurgy and water pump. It is not that expensive. Flush and refill with 50/50 distilled water. Check to make sure you have the updated expansion tank cap, or you will have a leak there.

When replacing the T-stat on these, you will need an extra-long long torx bit for the one bolt. The tool is about $30. If you try to hack it with a standard bit, you will bugger it up and make a BIG MESS. You should also replace the temp sender at the same time, it is in the same housing.

The upper rad hose doesn't normally go on these, but the lower one and the heater lines sometimes do. When a comprehensive cooling system service is done, it is sometimes a good idea to replace them all once the car is past a certain age. Also check the coolant lines to the turbo. Mice like to nibble on those.

If and when you do the brakes, do them right and do them COMPLETELY as pointed out above. Half-way jobs don't last on these, and wind up costing much more in the end. Again, I would take a very close look at the calipers on these, especially at that mileage.

The switches on the rear doors sometimes just get dirty from lack of use and stop conducting a circuit. Exercise them a bit, and failing that, you may need to see if they can accommodate a shot of contact cleaner (that may require opening up the door panel).
 
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If you could post a picture of the possibly replaced T-belt, that would be a great aid to everyone.


I will endeavor to do this. The mechanic observed that it "looked as though it had been changed." Also that the wiper fluid motor had been replaced with another, with new lines ran, so.. It HAS been messed with. He said the belt "looked good" as well.

Originally Posted By: GearheadTool
Video 1: http://s1051.beta.photobucket.com/user/GearheadTool/media/VID_20121012_095612_zps9f3748c8.mp4.html

Video 2: http://s1051.beta.photobucket.com/user/GearheadTool/media/VID_20121012_101805_zpsb93f1ae6.mp4.html


Not to sound redunant, but is the advice in Video 1 (and Video 2, for that matter) any good? (The C-clamp, etc?) We spent some time shaking the car and listening for sounds.. seemed to work well! (One guy shakes car back/forth, he listened for sounds, looked under as I did.) Do we like this guy? He said he worked "10 plus years in parts and service department of Nissan dealership" and he is in Norwell, MA.
 
The guy who was talking was right on with the following:

Use a c-clamp if you can't depress the pads enough to get the caliper off. Don't hang the caliper by the brake hose. That ws all good...I didn't have time to watch the whole thing, but honestly, it was a compendium of the basics...any good manual (and you should spend your next $12 on a manual) would tell you the same thing...
 
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Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: GearheadTool


a. http://s1051.beta.photobucket.com/user/GearheadTool/media/VID_20121012_085211_zps50bf2e9f.mp4.html

Holy smokes... your dashboard looks like a christmas tree.

A little OT, but you're driving, making a video with your phone, and playing around with the radio buttons at the same time???
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Yep as typical for a beat older European car.

I bet if he brought this thing to a proper Volvo guy and got a list to make it right, that list would easily add up to over $5k. It probably needs brakes all around, suspension work, I'm sure all the fluids are spent, probably a few nice leaks, all the filters, T belt, etc, etc the list keeps going.
 
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Originally Posted By: GearheadTool

2. New UPPER RADIATOR HOSE. Said mine feels thin, probably due to corroding from inside out.


This could also be because it is thin and always was compared to the usual stuff you can find readily at Billy Bob's Auto Parts and Ice Cream Stand. That doesn't mean it's not still in good condition, it just means it fits properly. An overly thick hose will necessarily have either a larger OD or a smaller ID and just maybe both. A larger OD might mean you need a new clamp. A smaller ID means you have to fight to get it on and once you do it's immediately compromised and ready to fail.

If you look at the inside of the hose and see cracks you need to replace it, otherwise append it to the list of stuff to worry about after the timing belt job is done.
 
Wow.

That car needs to be parked until you can fix it correctly. Take the top cover off and take a picture or video of the T/belt so we can see what it looks like.
 
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There are older Euro cars that make good buys and there are those that don't.
Service history is always desirable, and in this case would eliminate any uncertainty over the timing belt, for example.
A little pre-purchase online research will lead you to an owners' site for whatever car you're looking at, which will help you in telling you what to look for in inspecting a car, as well as what typically breaks, how to fix things, and what the fixes will cost.
Also, some models are known to be more reliable than others.
I'd avoid a cheap seven series, for example.
There's just too much stuff that breaks with no cheap fixes available.
The practicality of owning something moderately complicated, old and cheap is directly proportional to the owner's ability to find good advice online and to do most of his own wrench turning.
Finding an indie with plenty of experience with cars like yours is always a plus.
The OP is getting plenty of good advice here, thanks to those members who've owned Volvos.
This Volvo can probably be made safe and reliable for another couple of grand.
This would mean that for a total outlay of four grand, the owner could have a relaible, roomy and comfortable car.
This is certainly more car than a Subaru, and Subies are not without their quirks.
I hope it works out this way for these folks.
 
A refurbed ABS module from Midwest ABS solved the ABS, speedo and other craziness these modules can cause on my daughter's '99 S70 NA car with 180K. The solder cracks on the module board, leading to all sorts of issues. There's a DYI on Matthew's Volvo site, but getting the module apart is a bear. I chose to get one from Matt to simplify the repair.
 
Originally Posted By: DuckRyder
So what happened to our guy here, over 10 days - nothing...
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Hello
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O-K~~~~.....

1. Went to NJ, left car in MA. WOW is NJ a BLACK HOLE right now! Got out Wednesday afternoon. It is BAD there. I feel sorry for my family. Storm hit while I was there. Now, moving on! I come back home, AND...

1. SMASHED window! Someone tried to steal her.
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.. Fixed TODAY! They shipped a window from the SUV SC70 (XC90?) They got the right one. Now the driver side rear appears to have a blown fuse, as it doesn't whir at all. I will have to see...

2. Caught a FLAT!!!!!! Had donut on. Put on proper replacement P195/65R15 TODAY.

Please remember.. I share V.

3. Either the BRAKE LINE to right rear *the one with a pic - developed a LEAK, or the caliper blew. EITHER WAY.. $180 parts, 2 rear pads and rotors and rear passenger caliper, plys $175 labor.. = fixed. (Spongy pedal, brake light on, leaked fluid on the ground from that tire. Low brake pressure, due to wherever it was leaking from.) Fixing to-morrow.

4. ABS module is next to be replaced.

5. I need this because I broke fuel door latch on $3.59 gas today http://www.ipdusa.com/products/6703/110303-fuel-door-latch OR http://www.ipdusa.com/products/6174/112129-fuel-door-hinge-repair-kit-p80-s70-v70 (which one?)

6. Oil and filter changed, 5W-30 conventional. Auto RX being considered, but not done yet.. need to save money and the motor is well.

7. No further Seafoam purchased, just gas.

9. Had to jump the battery today. Let her idle for 45 minutes when changing window. Went to turn on, two hours later.. had to be jumped. Battery seems fine now.. Leave Tape off on trip to Maine? Or is highway trip the best thing for the battery? Maybe more of a base charge?

Welcome me back. I want a beer!
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Just so you know: She looks back to normal now. This was 6:30AM.

This is about an hour before day broke and I checked the brake fluid (spongy feel) and confirmed a caliper/brake line blew, on the troubled tire/pad. Will be fixed tomorrow. $4 of brake fluid puddling at that tire diagnosed it.

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The trip to Maine is tomorrow, the brakes get done today, the window and donut tire no longer look like that, and I will endeavor to get the battery charged up (more) today!
 
Have you popped the t-belt cover off to at least inspect it yet? I wouldn't necessarily take a chance on Nissan guy from the parking lot being right.

I hope the car is reliable for your trip. Go easy on it.
 
Originally Posted By: 01rangerxl
Have you popped the t-belt cover off to at least inspect it yet? I wouldn't necessarily take a chance on Nissan guy from the parking lot being right.

I hope the car is reliable for your trip. Go easy on it.


True. Thank you!

Real-time update:

1. Mobile mechanic backed out due to family emergency. I wished him well, but he can't do it. Quoted me $50 grand total, half parts half labor.

2. Car is at Sam's, will know soon if he can do it today, or help (by doing it lol.) I got it to him just before 12PM and left the keys. I don't know.. many cars there. We will see.

. Farming out mobile mechs as back-up. Two *maybes.*

^^ For the caliper/pad/rotor.

If I didn't have a mobile phone I do not know what I would do, or even be able to do.

REAL-TIME: One guy wants to do both sides, but can do so tomorrow morning.. she may not go for that. (Too close) ....
 
Ok, ok. Sam has the car up on the lift.

God, I hope he can do it today because any other way is NOT going to work (Can't fix a car in our parking spot even though the one mobile mechanic can do it there, etc.)
 
Brake problem isn't surprising...given the pics you posted...you should ABSOLUTELY do both sides! Don't even think of trying to do just one side...you have to start fixing this poor thing correctly if you want it to survive...it's the cheap man who spends the most...most of your current problems with the care stem from cheap fixes in its past. Brake rotors? pad change Deferred. Timing belt? belt change Deferred. Sludge? oil change Deferred. ABS module? Deferred...and, most likely, brake fluid changes were deferred too...Trans shifting poorly? Fluid change was deferred...see the pattern?

Highway run should charge the battery fully - idling does little - not enough charge from the alternator at idle. But once that is done - check the date code on the battery, consider a new one if it's old...
 
Originally Posted By: GearheadTool
Ok, ok. Sam has the car up on the lift.

God, I hope he can do it today because any other way is NOT going to work (Can't fix a car in our parking spot even though the one mobile mechanic can do it there, etc.)


With all that our part of the country just went through, as long as all those close to you are safe and warm, you're doing well.

That you're able to take the trip at all right now is an added blessing. Stay positive.
 
Originally Posted By: antiqueshell
No pic visible


Sorry about that. Click on the below link.. should open up the clip of exactly what mechanic saw when Volvo was up on the lift. And the atmosphere of the place.
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(Perhaps in another window.)

Fixed it. Here is that video! Will open in new window/tab.

This is Friday, 1:30PM. Car runs sweetly now. They also LOVE me in there.

Job cost $162. I have proof. What a guy. Sam's customer for life!

http://s1051.photobucket.com/albums/s434...zpsd4dc60fe.mp4
 
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