Strange issue with '95 Integra LS - Stalling, etc.

[ThirdeYe]

Hi all,

Haven't posted on here in a while.

My 1995 Integra LS (Automatic, 196k miles) has been having some odd issues lately. It started when I turned on my car after returning home from work, to go to get some dinner. I put it into drive, and it stuttered and chugged until it finally smoothed out and started running fine. I thought it was really strange, but thought it was just some sorta fluke. After I parked my car again for about 15-20 minutes, we got into the car and started it up. I put it into reverse, and it stalled out. I started it again, put it in reverse and it was running very rough. I was able to get it backed out of the parking spot and put it into drive, and it stalled again. Started the car again, and it seemed fine since.

A few days later (today), I noticed it was running rough in reverse again, but it eventually smoothed itself out. I went to accelerate from 35-45 by downshifting, but after it downshifted, pushing the pedal harder would actually make the car go slower. I let off on the gas and it eventually started driving properly again.

I'm not sure if it's a transmission issue, or perhaps a fuel/vacuum problem. I checked the AT fluid level and it's fine. Doesn't look brown/burnt/etc. The level is right up to the full mark as it always has been. I've changed the fluid every 15-20k since owning it. Air filter looks fine, engine oil level is fine. I didn't notice any glaring issues under the hood. The fuel pump is priming and the main fuel relay appears to be working as I can hear the audible clicks. It was replaced a few years ago.

Does anyone have any suggestions as to why it might be acting like this? Any help would be greatly appreciated before I start throwing money at it.

Some notes on other things I've already done: Took apart the distributor cap and inspected the rotor. Both looked fine. I also looked at the spark plug wires and they seem fine. I cleaned the corrosion I had around the battery cable (was really quite bad around the positive terminal). I just did this earlier tonight and haven't had much of a chance to drive it. However, it did seem to start up fine and I ran it hard around the neighborhood and didn't have any issues -- but the problem is intermittent, so I don't know for sure if it's fixed.

Thanks,
Derek

 

[fdcg27]

Bad terminal connections can have odd effects, in my experience.
See if cleaning the terminal fixed it.
Good to see you back.
I've been wondering whether you were still at least lurking.

 

[asiancivicmaniac]

Does it have a MAF?

 

[ThirdeYe]

fdcg27 - Thanks! I haven't been on much lately, but I have been on a few times here and there.

asiancivicmaniac -- No, it does not have a MAF. If it helps, it is an ODB1 setup.

Thanks,
Derek

 

[ThirdeYe]

Originally Posted By: ThirdeYe
fdcg27 - Thanks! I haven't been on much lately, but I have been on a few times here and there.

asiancivicmaniac -- No, it does not have a MAF. If it helps, it is an ODB1 setup.

Thanks,
Derek


I forgot to mention that the corrosion on the terminal was so bad that the ABS connector wasn't even making a connection anymore -- thus the ABS light would go on and off randomly. There's a little plug that connects to the metal part of the cable, and the corrosion seemed to come from that cord.

 

[daves87rs]

TBS sensor?

 

[ThirdeYe]

Hey daves87rs -- did you mean the TPS?

 

[aquariuscsm]

Hey Derek! How`ve you been?

 

[ThirdeYe]

Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Hey Derek! How`ve you been?


Hey buddy -- doing great, thanks. How have you been?

Definitely thinking about selling the Integra and maybe trying to finally get a 300zx, or keep the Integra as a winter car. I'm at my wits end with this thing.

ABS problems, and now stalling/accelerating rough...

 

[dparm]

Vacuum leak?

 

[ThirdeYe]

I was wondering about that -- but I have no clue where to start. I was reminded to check the PCV valve, so I'll do that tomorrow. I replaced it about 5 years ago, but it could be on its way out again I suppose.

 

[SwampSurvivor]

Did cleaning the terminal help?

My Jeep had a very corroded positive battery cable, it would stall at stop lights because of it.

 

[ThirdeYe]

Hard to say. I took it up to the store after I cleaned it, and it seemed to be fine. The ABS light is still coming on, but I suppose that the cable could still be a little corroded. I cleaned it to the best of my ability with a toothbrush and some elbow grease.

I'll take it to work tomorrow, putting it through its paces and report back.

Thanks

 

[The Critic]

Is there an idle air control valve on this thing?

 

[ltslimjim]

Having very similar symptoms with my vehicle.

Coolant level fine, no air needing to be purged?

IACV, TB cleaning?

I have had folks tell me to look for a vacuum leak but I haven't been able to find one.

Cold starts, the worst it seems. Wants to idle low, mine has a 5spd M/T, though. Stalled it very easily today on a decent incline. It did not like trying to take off in 1st from that stop. <_<

 

[SteveSRT8]

After you eliminate the TPS, IACV, and such make sure you check the purge setup on your Evap system.

 

[meep]

I believe that the IAC in this car could be a vacuum motor that bumps the throttle plate, rather than a separate valve. They were using that mechanism some time around there. not sure when they changed. I would start there.

If it's a discrete valve, I'd pull and clean. Otherwise if it's the older style you can check it. Be careful.... set the brake, stand to the side, etc.... Idle the engine and bump the throttle with you hand. watch the throttle as the rpms drop, a little "button" should pop out and "catch" the throttle arm and then settle. That's not the whole issue you describe, but I would start there.

It sounds to me like it may be starved for fuel. Odd that it is more prominent in R. Rev it in Neutral. Does it "pop" and fuss and spit? that's lean. Does it sort of bog and chug? that's rich. Rich will also be a little rpm-limited, with black sooty exhaust.

 

[PandaBear]

If I remember right I have similar but not as severe symptom on my teg a while back. I end up cleaning the IACV with brake cleaner (non chlorinated) and the throttle body / plate, it goes away. If cleaning the IACV doesn't help, try to replace the fuel filter and see if it is plugged. If it still doesn't help, open up the distributor and check the resistance of the ignition coil. If I remember right it should be near 20k Ohm after refrigerating it down for a bit. When my coil died the resistance I got was only 10k Ohm.

I also had similar issue during start when I had head gasket problem. The car would be difficult to start if I park for a while because the coolant would push into the cylinders. You can borrow a compression tester from autozone to check the compression, and see if this is the problem.

 

[ThirdeYe]

Thanks for the tips everyone.

I haven't experienced the issue again. It's been fine since I cleaned off the corrosion on the battery and took out the plug wires and took apart the distributor and put things back together again.

If it does it again, I'll have to get the IACV cleaned. I remember when I first got the car I would have issues with it revving while in idle (by itself), which I believe is a symptom of the IACV needing to be cleaned. However, it stopped doing it and hasn't done it in 5 years.

I do hear a brushing sound coming from the car, which I suppose could be a vacuum leak, though it's coming from the driver's side, where all of the accessories are and I wonder if it's just a belt making that noise.

I can rev the car in park, and it revs fine. No coughing/sputtering/stalling, etc.

 

[ThirdeYe]

Well, it stalled out again today. It did it after I went to a restaurant to buy a lunch for tomorrow. Went into the store, came back out 5 minutes later, started it up and put it into drive, and it stalled. Waited a few seconds and tried to start it again. I heard the fuel pump prime and the relay click, but it took it quite a few cranks to get it started again. I thought it might be the main fuel relay, as I know that used to give me trouble when the car was warm, but I just replaced it about 4 years ago... didn't think it would go bad again that fast. I do wonder if there is indeed a vacuum leak... and perhaps unrelated, my ABS light tends to come on when it starts hard. Do you think it's possible that a faulty ABS system could cause it to start weird? I don't know how, but I do wonder if it's causing an odd issue, being that it's connected directly to my battery.