Piecing together a dual remote bypass setup...

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So far I have:

Derale 15749 dual remote filter kit.
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3/4-16 to 1-16 nipple
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And an Amsoil EaO15 and EaBP90.

Do you guys think that I should put a restrictor in the 1" nipple to ensure that there will be a limited amount of flow through the bypass filter? I know there wont be much flow anyway because the mount doesn't have the biasing spring that the Amsoil kit has, but wouldn't I be better off making sure that nothing could force too much oil through the bypass filter?

The vehicle is a 2006 Mercury Mariner Hybrid, and I have to mount the filters high up on the firewall, somewhat above the exhaust manifold. Do you think that the 4-6 feet of hose required will cause any problems with oil pressure during the dozens of engine restarts that happen constantly while driving? I may ditch the hose that comes with the kit and go for a heavy duty steel braided hydraulic hose to minimize pressure drop when the engine restarts.

Is the exhaust heat going to be too much, or will it potentially keep my oil up to temperature for increased filtering efficiency and fuel economy?

Any input on my plans is appreciated.
 
I've been reading up on installing a bypass system for awhile.
My problem with buying and installing it all is that I've never figured out how one makes a bypass system work for them unless they are a long-haul trucker that does several 100 thousand miles each year.

I've never actually installed one. I've only done the research and crunched the numbers. So take what I say with a grain of salt.

My oil filter on my Taurus is maybe 2" above the front exhaust manifold. It is at a diagonal position on the side of the V-6 and it is crazy hot when you change the oil hot. Although it is on the front side of the engine and sees a lot of air flow, it gets really CRAZY HOT. I don't think your bypass filters will be hurt by this in any way shape or form.

Also, with all the extra tubes and filters your oil capacity, and cooling capacity will grow significantly. You will have to wait a little bit longer for everything to reach temp, but this is not a bad thing.

Just make sure you mount those filters with the ability to get the filters off without having to pull the mount to unscrew the filters.

Also, I'd install the restriction fitting in the 1" housing. You want the full flow filters to do their job while only have a trickle to the bypass filter.

Depending on how you route your tubes I'd start with the 6' you have and get it all set up. Depending on the layout of how you route the pipes you may need quite a bit more.

Figure out how much you will need. Get it up and working the way you like it. Then go get the stainless steel braided lines made specifically for your application.
Remember this is a "touch it once" application that is designed to be used over extremely long distances. Braided steel lines make sense. Just be sure to get them right the first time as you will have to live with them over a long haul.

I have a question.
What do you use your Mercury Mariner Hybrid for?
How many miles do you put on it yearly?
Is this something you are tinkering with or is this a business fix?
Just curious. I tinker with stuff all the time. If I had the money I'd probably be running one for the heck of it also.
 
I mainly drive it to and from work, which is usually around 8 miles one way, but I also regularly do longer 20-100 mile trips.

I recently installed a Mazda replacement filter mount that converted it from a cartridge filter to a 3/4" spin on mount. I modified it by grinding off some metal and used a double gasket to add some block clearance so could use i use an FL-1a filter which is massive compared to what it used to have. It sticks down a bit far, but I am not willing to go to a smaller filter. That is what originally got me interested in actually installing a dual remote bypass. I love to tinker, and I've always wanted to install a bypass filter on something.

I have felt the oil filter after only driving 3.5 miles on a cold engine and it was quite warm. After 5 miles it was almost too hot to touch.

The stock oil capacity of 4.5 quarts was enough to take a conventional oil out to 10,000 miles according to Ford. The added capacity alone would bump it to around 14,500 but the better filtration and water removal should help me bump it to around 20,000 easy. I am going to be running Pennzoil Ultra 5w-20 for its high tbn and low volatility amongst its other excellent qualities.
 
If you have no mechanical ball spring for moderation, I'd put a .050" orifice hole in the the unit somewhere near the bp filter to act as your restriction. Is the nipple blanked inside, allowing you to drill the hole size of your choice?

Do you have a good series of UOAs showing the current system performance, to see how this affects the system post-installation?
 
Well that confounds the issue, but it certainly can be overcome. Try putting a .050" restriction in the inlet before the hose enters the large base mount. Gary Allan had at one time ID'd a source for such a beast, but I'm not sure where it came from.
 
I think I am going to tap the 1" end of the filter adapter nipple and screw a bolt in, and drill a hole in that. Easy to change if necessary.
 
Good idea in concept. I might suggest a drilled brass plug rather than a bolt, but the effect would be the same. Once the brass oxidizes, it won't much affect a UOA.

Further, since you're going to do it on the adapter, then you're on the outbound flow side of the filter (you are metering downstream of the filter). Make sure to eliminate any chips, etc. They are headed right back into the flow stream otherwise.
 
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The rest of my parts came in today (the mount itself) so I did a quick mock-up to see if it will work where I want it to. I think if I modify the mount by removing the top bolt hole and cutting it square that I will gain just enough extra room that it is the ideal location. My problem with the kit is how small the hose nipples are. They're for a 1/2" hose, but the ID is only about 3/8" which I don't believe is enough. I may just use it to measure hose length and then have some custom hydraulic hoses made that won't have as much restriction.

As far as hose routing goes, I think I am going to put some 90 degree elbows on the filter adapter and run the hoses straight forward, then straight up over the engine under the engine cover.

Here are the pics of the mounting location.

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Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
There is already enough room under the filters, but it is tight. That's why I want to modify the mount.


It is a very nice looking piece. Shame to cut it up, but I understand why. Hope that does not compromise any support.
 
What I could do is bolt a 3/4" thick piece of oak inside the firewall, and one outside, and then bolt the dual filter mount to that. It would allow me to raise it up and move it forward, and would add a bit of sound deadening in case it transmits some vibration into the firewall, but it might also move the filters out of alignment with the brake tubing below it that is in perfect position for removing and installing the filters....

Anyway, I think I might pull the 1" nipple out and put the 3/4" back in, and install the setup with a PureONE and the FL-1A that is already on the car so that I can test for leaks and oil pressure issues before I switch over to the more expensive oil and filters. I have about 6k on this oil as it is, and I don't really want to change it this early.
 
Its up to you, but I think wood would take away from the looks.

I would try and use some scrap steel. clean it up a little and hit it would some spay paint. or aluminum.


are you talking about using the wood in order to raise the top mounting hole slightly above the firewall line, where there is that bent lip?

If so, I would trim that lip just enough to allow the top point of the mounting bracket to clear which would allow you to slide the mount up a little more. and then use 1 or 2 plates to make a sandwich like your talking about.

You could also just use one plate on the front (between the mount and firewall) and washers on the backside of the firewall. Depends on how thick of scrap metal you have. if it is thick use one, if it is on the flimsy side use 2.
 
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I want to avoid trimming the lip if I can, since that is a sealed area that houses my cabin air filter. The cover is sealed to the lip with tacky rubber strips.

The Amsoil dual remote kit would have been easier to install.... darn me for being cheap.
 
My concern with wood is that, being cellulose, it will swell and shrink with both moisture and temperature; hard to avoid in the engine bay. It will also be hard to get that wood to stay snug, but not too tight. Further, wood has a tendency to "squeak" when rubbed on another surface. Not that you cannot try it; go for it. I don't think it would work well, but I've been proven wrong before.

I would think a nice piece of square tube of Al from the local Lowes/ACE/HomeDepot would suffice, and then a bit of rubber gasket material could help with any vibration dampening, if needed.

Typically, those dual mount units are made to go onto a solid frame rail, where they are not directly mounted to the body.

Is there any way you could fab up some mounts using attachment points on the engine, and get the mount isolated to the engine and not the unibody? I suspect you might end up with NVH issues being attached to the front of the cowl?
 
I modified the mount, removing the top hole and installed it where I wanted. There is plenty of clearance. The issues I have run into are that the filter adapter and hose barbs stick down too far, so doing a 180 degree loop causes the hose to hang under the car... the other issue is that the kit did not include enough hose.

Is there any reason I couldn't use some 1/2" aluminum tubing to run from the filter adapter (I intend to buy a different adapter with ports at 90 degrees) and run it up the front and over the top of the engine, then continue from there to the remote mount using the rubber hose? Would 1/2" fuel line handle the heat and pressure?
 
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