Recommend an oil- 2012 caravan 3.6L

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tried to search, but I can't find what I am looking for. Read through like 50 pages and I must have missed what I am looking for as this seems like a popular engine.

With the family growing, it was time to get something a little more family friendly than the old faithful Jeep Liberty. We picked up a used 2012 dodge caravan "crew" with the 3.6L vvt, and pretty sure its a "pentastar." 33,xxx on the clock.

Anyway, looks like to maintain the power train warranty OCIs need to be every 6 months or 8K or something like that (no owners manual). We will drive this up to 10K a year, mostly in town less than 3 miles one way to pretty much anywhere. once or twice a month a 50 mile each way trip to a bigger town. A few longer road trips around the holidays, and will be fully loaded down at that point. Live in Southern IL, temps in the summer regularly at 90-100 for a few months, winter temps can get into the 20s.

For a filter I will probably use a WIX from carquest.

I am leaning toward a dino just because of needing to change the oil every 6 months anyway. I believe 5w30 is recommended.

What I was wondering is if there is any oil (dino or syn) that has proven to be better than others in this engine. Or, if I should go syn because of the mostly short drives it will see. I have used syn for the past 8 years in everything with 5000-7500 OCIs, but I didn't have to worry about warranties on those vehicles.

Dealer changed the oil when they got it at 33,xxx miles. I plan to change it at 35,000 and begin my own 6mo/5K oil change/tire rotation schedule.
 
5w-20 is the recommended viscosity for that engine.

If you don't mind paying extra for synthetic, Mobil1 0w-20 AFE would be my choice.

For dino oils, I've always had outstanding UOA's with Conocophilips oils.. Motorcraft Semi-Syn, Trop-Artic Semi-Syn, Kendall Semi-Syn, all can be had for around $3 or less.
 
Congrats on your new (to you) DGC! We too, picked up an "11 Crew this past summer with 27k. 5w30 is the correct weight for this engine- though it is going to 5w20 for the '13 model year.
Sounds like we have similar uses and mileage. I am running PP 5w30 and a Purolator Classic. This vehicle has an OLM, mine lit around 3800 miles on the last interval. I plan to just follow that for the coming year and see how it does. I am using PP since it does get pretty cold here in Denver in the winter and does have a fair amount of short trips (hence the early OLM warning).

To reset the OLM: turn key to on, press accel pedal fully 3x within 10 seconds.

Enjoy the new family ride, we love ours!
 
Originally Posted By: milehighhyundai
Congrats on your new (to you) DGC! We too, picked up an "11 Crew this past summer with 27k. 5w30 is the correct weight for this engine- though it is going to 5w20 for the '13 model year.
Sounds like we have similar uses and mileage. I am running PP 5w30 and a Purolator Classic. This vehicle has an OLM, mine lit around 3800 miles on the last interval. I plan to just follow that for the coming year and see how it does. I am using PP since it does get pretty cold here in Denver in the winter and does have a fair amount of short trips (hence the early OLM warning).

To reset the OLM: turn key to on, press accel pedal fully 3x within 10 seconds.

Enjoy the new family ride, we love ours!

Very unusual way to reset OLM.
 
Doing lots of short trips is something of an oil killer, so I would recommend using a good fully synthetic and changing it every 5000 miles max. If the warrenty does not say 6 months, one year will be OK in time terms.
If they are not too expensive use a real manufacturers oil filter.
 
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Very unusual way to reset OLM.


Chrysler vehicles with OLM have used this procedure for years.
 
You would probably be fine with a conventional for a 6 month OCI, but with that motor being so new it's hard to draw concrete conclusions on long term wear/sludge with the engine. Mobil 1, PP, QSUD, or Valvoline SynPower would probably be a safer bet with a 6 month OCI.

I've always liked Wix filters, so I'd say good call there. With all the sales that go on from time to time on those synthetics, it shouldn't be too much more expensive just to have a little extra cushion in case we find those motors do develop sludge issues.

Also, that reset procedure is the same for quite a GM cars from 1997 until present. Even the cars with the information center can generally be reset that way on the GM lineup. Chrysler introduced that style a few years back...I like it. Simple and easy.
 
6 months while not extreme is still moderate since you will be using the vehicle regularly.

The OEM Mopar filter is pretty reasonable too if you want to have some OEM filter box tops and receipts for your service book.

I'd use a nice synthetic. If price is a big concern, look for specials or buy a jug at Walmart.

I'd run Mobil 5w30 if 5w30 is still your year's recommendation, Mobil says its indeed 5w30 on 2012 but confirm in your manual. I'd prefer this to the thinner oil so I say you we're smart to get 2012.

Pennzoil Platinum or Pennzoil Ultra in 5w30 would also be fantastic choices.

5w30 is great grade as its easy to find. You can even get this grade of Mobil 1 at Costco and sometimes they have coupons.

These are STRONG engines and I'd like to keep it strong with good maintenance and products.
 
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I have a 2012 town and country limited with the same engine as yours and it calls for 5w30.. I just use Amsoil XL 5w30 and change the oil every 5000k km since that is what my local dealership recommends... I also recently use the purolator classic filter that i got from amazon for like under $5... the mechanic at the dealership said that the purolator filter looked the same with the mopar oem filter
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my local dealership is charging me $11-12 for one mopar filter
frown.gif


I also wanted to try and use 0w30 on my next oil change since its getting colder but the mechanic said its better to stick with 5w30 for warranty purposes
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Also, i just realized that there's no 0w30 on the XL series and its only with the signature series...
 
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IIRC the 2012 calls for 5W30, 2013 5W20, CAFE hard at work. Anyway check the OM to be sure. With all the issues with the 3.6L now dubbed by many "the ticking Pentastar". No one really knowing the root cause, but it is well documented. They have revised the left cylinder head twice since the original design in an attempt to resolve the problem. They are replacing the left cylinder head on those engines at a rate of about 500 per week, according to what I've read, and people I've spoken with. The cause of the head failure "might" be from excessive heat. I would run a good synthetic oil and follow the severe service interval for that engine.

Not all of them are bad, and it seems Wranglers are having most of the problems, but the Grand Cherokee, and Mini Vans are having the same problem as well. I think once they resolve the issue it will be a fine engine with lots of power. Just keep in mind there are problems, and maybe a synthetic oil might help prevent it.

I've been following the problems associated with this engine for over a year now. I'm still on the sidelines waiting to be sure it's fixed before I buy a new Wrangler. JMO
 
Originally Posted By: 92saturnsl2
Chrysler vehicles with OLM have used this procedure for years.


GM has used that up to at least 2006, too. Sure, it might be "strange" but it's easy.
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: 92saturnsl2
Chrysler vehicles with OLM have used this procedure for years.


GM has used that up to at least 2006, too. Sure, it might be "strange" but it's easy.


My dad's 2011 Suburban still utilizes that procedure
cool.gif
 
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