Crown Victoria heater problems

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Kalamazoo, Michigan, US
Since it has begun to get colder here in Michigan I've had to use my defrost recently and have noticed that the air is not blowing very strong out of my defrost vents as it should. Instead, the air is blowing out the dash vents towards the passengers unless I close each vent will it blow out the defrost vents. My car is a 2005 Crown Victoria and I have electronic climate control in my car and I am wondering if a blend door is stuck partially and if this system relies on vacuum lines or an actual motor to direct the duct-work air flow. I seem to recall that there may be a sequence of buttons to push to get a readout on the display of any malfunction? Is there any such tricks?
 
It does have vacuum lines. Its likely the o-rings that seal the vacuum line manifold on the back of the climate control unit. They are known for failing.
 
Blower motor on it's way out? Call Ford and harass them. I do it all the time. My 94 is vacuum controlled.
Maybe you've got some handcuffs stuck in the heater core (cop car joke).
Is this a fleet vehicle?
 
Quote:
The EATC module self-test will detect concerns in the system control functions and will display hard diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) in addition to intermittent diagnostic trouble codes for concerns that occur during system operation. The vehicle interior temperature should be between 4°-32°C (40-90°F) when carrying out the self-test. If the temperatures are not within the specified ranges, false in-car temperature sensor DTCs will be displayed.
The self-test can be initiated at any time. Normal operation of the system stops when the self-test is activated.
To enter the self-test, press the OFF and FLOOR buttons simultaneously and then press the AUTOMATIC button within two seconds . The display will show a pulse tracer going around the center of the display window. The test may run as long as 30 seconds . Record all DTCs displayed.
If any DTCs appear during the self-test, follow the diagnostics procedure given under ACTION for each DTC given.
If a condition exists but no DTCs appear during the self-test, GO to Symptom Chart Condition: The EATC System Is Inoperative, Intermittent or Improper Operation. See: Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures
To exit self-test and retain all intermittent DTCs, push the blue (cooler) button. The control will exit self-test, retain all intermittent diagnostic trouble codes and then turn OFF (display blank).
To exit the self-test and clear all DTCs, press the DEFROST button. The vacuum fluorescent display window will show 888 and all function symbols for one second . Then, the EATC control assembly will turn OFF (display blank) and all DTCs will be cleared.
Always exit the self-test before powering the system down (system turned OFF).
Intermittent DTCs will be deleted after 80 ignition switch ON cycles after the intermittent condition occurs.
 
I think those are still vac operated, at least on the air routing doors. I would seriously look at the linkage on the vent/defrost door (should be drivers side of the plenum, almost behind the EATC). I think I remember 2 actuators there, the lower is for floor, the uppper actuator is the one you need to look at. You can usually reach them from underneith the dash. Sometimes the actuator falls off the arm to the door.

Off chance it is an internal problem with the EATC head. Vac leaks usually default to defrost vents, so that would not be my first suspect.

All the above is from memory, so take it for what it is worth.
 
I tried using that same button sequence but all I got out of it was it temporarily turned everything off for a second and nothing on the display.
I've had vacuum leaks in the past on other cars which always leads to the defrost being stuck on. I will try to check the control unit lines first and for from there. This makes sense to me since I have vacuum to the blend door for the AC/MAX setting and I can hear it open.
I hope this doesn't turn into me having to remove the dash to fix this but it seems like I will.
 
Don't despair.

Except for the blend door actuator, you can usually reach about everything under the dash on those. EATC diagnostics are pointless for a vac problem. Ck those vac lines and vac actuator first before you tear into the dash.
 
Originally Posted By: Colt45ws
It does have vacuum lines. Its likely the o-rings that seal the vacuum line manifold on the back of the climate control unit. They are known for failing.


Bingo... It's a common issue on the '03 & '04, I assume the '05 uses same EATC head, fairly sure they changed in '06...
 
Originally Posted By: TFB1
Originally Posted By: Colt45ws
It does have vacuum lines. Its likely the o-rings that seal the vacuum line manifold on the back of the climate control unit. They are known for failing.


Bingo... It's a common issue on the '03 & '04, I assume the '05 uses same EATC head, fairly sure they changed in '06...

Its so bad that Dorman offers reman EATC heads, along with the LCM for the infamous headlight problem.
 
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I have already replaced the LCM earlier this year and had no idea that the EATC unit had any issues. It appears that all cars '03-'12 us the same unit so I can find a part relatively easy.
My sister and a few of my friends all have these cars, albeit older, with this system and never had any issues. I guess that is what I get for having the newest one of the fleet! I guess I know what my weekend consists of...pulling the old unit out and testing it and the vacuum lines. Any suggestions?
 
Originally Posted By: bds1984
Any suggestions?


See above. Lay under the dash, pull off the access panel above your accel/brake pedal and look/feel to make sure the vac can/actuator is OK/hooked up. Cycle the AC controls to VENT and DEFROST with your finger over the vac line (disconnected from cannister) and verify VAC with selector at "VENT", and no vac with selector at "DEFROST". If vac switches on and off, then you have something wrong on the door/actuator end of the line. No switching/continuous vac, then a bad control head. A vac leak will not cause your symptoms.

You either have a bad control head feeding vac continuously to the DEF/VENT actuator, or you have a linkage/binding door problem. Do the easy stuff first, then worry about pulling the control head.
 
I was able to make it through with my current situation until now with the EATC head unit being a little flaky at times but I think it finally bit the dust now. The fan selector switch decided to not work today when I got in my car. However, it decided to work after I drove the car a second time today.

Anyone ever had this happen? Am I safe in assuming the control module is shot? I have a remaned one from ebay coming for $139 that'll be here Wednesday. I've dealt with this seller before when I replaced the headlamp control module and no complaints with his work.

I love the car but I am getting annoyed with the electronic widgets giving me fits! At least the rest of the car is solid!
 
You may want to check the wire running from the EATC to the blower motor. I'm not sure of the specifics of the Crown Vic with that EATC unit as opposed to my Mark VIII... but I've heard many cases of the wire getting too hot and starting to break free (or fry the connector if it's not soldered) at the head unit.
 
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