CD2 Stop Leak

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I'm not sure I am impressed with either the 75k mile treatment or detergent, but the CD2 Stop Leak seams like it's the real deal. Actually, it might be the combo 75k and stop leak which I used together, dunno. I'm not sure if it's temporary or not but my seriously leaking valve cover seams to have been cured. It has been leaking for years, and through the full ARX cycle.

CD2 Stop Leak appears identical to Lucas Synthetic Engine Treatment in appearance. It's clear and thick, and seams to have really good lubricity. I have had three trips on the new oil change and have yet to smell the burning oil on the manifold. Anyone else try this stuff, is it temporary?
 
LOL! If you got a seal leak (cam/crank/bigend/valvecover, etc.), you got a seal leak.

The only way to deal with a seal leak promptly is to replace it/service it, and/or find out what's the main cause to the problem.

I personally do not believe (abandonment is the word) in any stop-leaks at all, for these are the same temporary workaround that many used car salesman put into their "smokies" trying to make a quick sale.

Yes, all stop-leaks are temporary fix and will reappear in a thousand kms or so.
 
Well, the problem is that it is just a valve cover leak and it's a Van. It would be a nightmare to replace myself, in fact I just couldn't do it. I bought the Van just to drive a handicap person around in, and was hoping to get a couple thousand miles out of it. The Van is not worth the 800 dollars it would cost to pay the dealer to change the valve cover. If it the stop leak lasts even 500 miles it's worht it in the situation, IMO.
 
My old motorhome developed an oil leak, I think at the main seal, and I installed a can of K&W engine oil stop leak. 700 miles later I parked on a clean concrete slab after running all day. Morning, nothing dripped on the concrete. Drove another 5000 miles after that and did not notice the leak come back. Stop leak is worth a try.
 
One thing you can try though: use CD2 to stop leak and then go on with high mileage oil (it comes with additional shot of sealsweller) to see if that helps.

I've seen the additional seal swellers in HM oils stopped some old, tired seal leaks.
 
Havoline HM, Castrol HM, etc. they are all good.

(...and my wifey's Camry Vee6 took me 5 hrs to replace the valve cover gasket, with 4+hrs spent on navigating the firewall side of the wirings, hoses, plenum gaskets, hidden screws, etc.)
 
When I had a small seal leak on my old Saturn SL2 that I used to own I tried to stop the leak with Valvoline MaxLife oil which is supposed to have seal conditioners and also with CD2 stop leak. I liked the Valvoline oil but it did not stop the leak. The CD2 stop leak also did not stop the leak. But after I did either one or two cleanings with Auto-RX (I can't remember if it was one or two) the seal leak stopped. As long as there is no physical damage to a seal the Auto-RX seems to work.
 
Lets be clear Auto-Rx cleans both sides of the seal material (no swelling which weakens the seal)than after cleaning Auto-Rx works with the chemistry on non synthetic oil. To restore pliability. This seal is good as new.

When you use chemistry that swells seal your actually weakining the seal material with the inevitable consequences
 
The seal was leaking less after the ARX treatment for sure, pronbably because of better oil flow from removing sludge and what you said. I am sure the valve cover gasket has a huge gash in it, I am suprised anything would stop the leak. I am just hoping to get a couple thousand miles from this van and sell it.
 
Well my latest update is that CD2 turned out to be a very temporary product. I'm getting the burnt oil smell again. Someday I will have to break down and get a new gasket installed. The van is running great though.
 
I apologize for reviving this thread!

I understand that many here would disagree with me, but I have had great success with a couple of popular over-the-counter stop leak products. I would not mention the name of the product, but it is a very popular brand you could get from virtually anywhere, from Autozone to your local grocery stores for around %$7.

Anyway, it was on a friend's 1990 Honda Accord daily driver with a leaky rear main seal. The car had about 160,000 miles on it when we found out that it was having a severe rear main seal leak. He wanted get rid of the car because of the leak. We figured that replacing the rear main seal would not be worth it for a car like this. He'd rather buy another daily driver than spend any more time repairing the car.

After pouring the stop leak product into the crankcase, we cleaned up and detailed the underside and the engine bay of the car to enable us to inspect for leaks. The leak gradually stopped after a few days. We let the stop leak product work in the engine for roughly 2000 miles. After that, we never poured any stop leak product into the engine. Between oil changes, there is a very very light film of oil around the transmission bellhousing, but no oil dripping whatsoever like before. It's been around a year and the rear main seal leak hasn't come back yet.

Truthfully, like most members here, I am not a fan of using additives to a perfectly running engine. Normally, I would get dirty and repair leaks from places such as valve covers and oil pan. Valve cover and oil pan gaskets are very easy to replace. However rear main seal is extremely time consuming to replace. If the car was a manual transmission car, we would replace the seal while we change out the clutch. However this car is equipped with an automatic transmission and we really don't feel like dropping the transmission for the task.

The 10 hours or so time we would spend on repairing the rear main seal on a 20 year old Accord is worth more than the car itself. Nevertheless, for around $7, my friend and I are very satisfied. It effectively turned a dripping leak into a leak that only develops a very light oil film around the bell housing.

I am no oil expert, but I notice that many high mileage oils on the market claim to contain additives that "swell" rubber seals to prevent oil leaks. To me that is what most leak products do: "swell" rubber seals with a higher concentration of this additive.

Anyway, I personally experienced no harm to the car when using a stop leak product for only 2000 miles or so. Even if a product doesn't work for you, you can always drain it on your next oil change.
 
may I know the product you mentioned above?
I've discover minor oil leak around the valve cover on my 2005 hyundai, I'm not familiar with engine component name so I might be wrong.
previously running shell helix hx7 10w40 semi synthetic on this car, changed oil every 5000km in south east asia climate.

I was thinking to get a CD2 stop leak for it, is this any help?
 
Let us know what it was, no biggie... Or, PM me.

I need to get some for my Wife's Camry.
 
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