1997 Ford 5.4L 2 valve

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Hi,

I recently acquired a 1997 Ford Expedition with a 2 valve 5.4L Windsor. Is there anyone floating through here with experience on these? I have not had it long enough to determine what it likes as far as oil viscosity/brand, OCI, filters, etc. It has a fairly pronounced tick, but I don't know what it's from.

I'm sorry, this is not a very interesting thread, just my curiosity. Thanks.
 
Originally Posted By: oilboy123
So they were made in Windsor huh?


There were a few different locations where the Modular was made. The two most common are the Romeo and Windsor. There is also the Teskid block, cast in Italy (it is aluminum). But I think final assembly for the Teskid-based engines was still in Windsor or Romeo.
 
OP:

I'm currently running AMSOIL 0w30 and their EaO filter on my 5.4L.

However, if you have a walmart that stocks M1 0w30 and Motorcraft filters, that's a bulletproof combo for that engine.
 
Originally Posted By: oilboy123
So they were made in Windsor huh?

Excerpt from the PDF pseueo-linked below (page 70):

Originally branded “Triton” for F-Series, E-Series
and Expedition applications, the 5.4L is most
associated with the Windsor Engine Plant, but
engine assembly and machining have also been
supplemented by the Essex Engine Plant nearby.


fordracingparts dot com/download/tipsPDF/EngineHistory.pdf
 
Check the exhaust manifold studs on the right side, they rot off and can cause noise similar to a ticking lifter.
These early engines had lifter noise, timing chain tensioner noise and piston slap as well as tossing spark plugs out without warning.
COP coils are also a known issue with these things.

Kreen in the oil for 1K in the oil can work wonders on sticky rings, lifters and timing chain tensioners.

PU 5w20 works very well in these engines (it is back spec'd), i have run it in a few and the engines got very quiet, the longer it was in there the quieter it got.
It may have something to do with the cleaning ability of PU.

On engines with severe piston slap Mobil 1 0w40 seems to quieten them. Most did better on the 5w20 only one responded to the 0w40 so its kind of a go with what works deal but try the PU 5w20 first and give it some time.

Use only Motorcraft 820 filters on these engines (with filter on block), they use a different ADBV location and are best at preventing start up rattle.
If you have the remote filter in the front of the left fender well which was common on the 97 year then it doesn't matter as its mounted vertical.
 
Also these engines are horrible about broken exhaust studs. This makes a nasty tick, the studs rust off the manifolds. Also as mentioned only use a fl820s filter. My company has many of these modular fords. Use 5w20 a fl820s and be ready to replace the exhaust studs if you live in a climate that has a winter, they will rust off eventually and leak. Our modulars seem to run best on Mobil super or motorcraft oil.
 
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Originally Posted By: donnyj08
Also these engines are horrible about broken exhaust studs. This makes a nasty tick, the studs rust off the manifolds. Also as mentioned only use a fl820s filter. My company has many of these modular fords. Use 5w20 a fl820s and be ready to replace the exhaust studs if you live in a climate that has a winter, they will rust off eventually and leak. Our modulars seem to run best on Mobil super or motorcraft oil.


Yup, and as Trav said, it is usually the passenger side. That's where mine had the studs rot off too. Has the upgraded stainless studs and a dorman manifold on there now.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: donnyj08
Also these engines are horrible about broken exhaust studs. This makes a nasty tick, the studs rust off the manifolds. Also as mentioned only use a fl820s filter. My company has many of these modular fords. Use 5w20 a fl820s and be ready to replace the exhaust studs if you live in a climate that has a winter, they will rust off eventually and leak. Our modulars seem to run best on Mobil super or motorcraft oil.


Yup, and as Trav said, it is usually the passenger side. That's where mine had the studs rot off too. Has the upgraded stainless studs and a dorman manifold on there now.


yes OVERK1ll, 90% of the time it has been my experience as well that it is the passenger side, and they are not fun to get to at all... great engines tho. very hard to kill.

Trav's advice is solid and knowledgeable, i should have quoted it!
 
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Yup, Trav sure has a lot of experience and expertise
smile.gif


We've owned 3x 5.4L Expeditions. A '98, and a 2000 and 2002, the latter two are still with us. I own one, my parents the other. The 5.4L is a great engine, I agree. Ours have done a tremendous amount of towing and never complain. They don't use oil but they do like their gas.
 
Wow, thank you for the info. I expected 1 or 2 responses...

@OVERK1LL, it sure does like gas. I'm getting about 13MPG running about 8 or 10 miles a day round trip to work. However, it does get up and go for a 5200lb truck. What do you like for oil?

My parents had this car since new...I actually took my driver's test in it.
grin.gif
This spring, we more or less swapped vehicles, as I needed something larger and they were not using it. I've run 10W30 and 5W30 conventional with similar results, still a little noisy, and always used about half a quart every 5000 or so since new.

I hear a lot of people saying 5W20. My owner's manual spec'd 30w and I have always used that...is this a new development? Someone said something about Ford back spec'ing 5W20? I do know that 3 valve 5.4's generally spec 5W20.

Thanks again...
 
the modular engines were back spec'd. the 5w30 will work fine, but the engines seem happiest on a 5w20 oil. we run all 5w20 in our company fords (All Modulars) and have many over 200k and strong. also many of these trucks tow often and 1 daily, the 5w20 holds up great. I recommend a 5w20 but a 5w30 will work. ive heard a 0w30 or a thin 5w30 is a good match for these engines as well. for your 2 valve any of these will serve you well.
 
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