Vortec torque curves?

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Weird... I got curious about the stall speed on the Ridgeline, and came across some forum posts that indicate it won't lock up the convertor until the oil gets too hot!

http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showpost.php?p=245541&postcount=220
http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5149

Very odd. I'd think that very bad for the automatic (certainly is for the 700R4's); but Honda has been at this for a while. And I don't think there has been a rash of failing transmissions for Ridgelines. [Only for radiator failure.]
 
If you can live with a small trailer you could just pull it with the Jetta. Check out this thread on tdiclub: http://65.110.12.166/showthread.php?t=255330&highlight=show+tow

Many people are towing 1500-2500 lbs. You could tow a pop up tent trailer or aluminum trailer easy. 30 mpg at 55 with a popup trailer is a reasonable expectation.

I consider the Toyota Rav4 V6 to be mechanically superior to a Honda Ridgeline. You may find a much better deal on a used Ridgeline than a Rav4 and that could make it worthwhile. Honda's auto trans is not as good as Toyota, and with Toyota you can even get a manual. Tacoma > Ridgeline. Good luck buying a Tacoma for any kind of a low price. If my Cummins ever gets totaled in a wreck, and i couldn't find another nice 12 valve, i'd go order a brand new tacoma 4x4 double cab. It would be expensive, but a well maintained Tacoma will run until the chassis rusts apart.
 
For the last couple of years I've kept a spreadsheet, into which I dump all the details I can find about a vehicle. Gearing included. It looks like the Toyota RAV4 V6 and the Ridgeline run about the same gearing, believe it or not; both turn about the same rev's at the same speeds in the same gears. The Rdigeline has less peak power; and while I have yet to find "real" torque curves I have the impression that the torque curve on the Toyota is is fatter--meaning they didn't compress all the power into the top end, for impressive numbers. [I've read a complaint or two about low end torque; but it's still something like 200ft-lb at 2,000 rpm.] Both vehicles do seem to have a tall first gear, both will do upwards of 40mph in first, so I guess they reall expect a lot out of torque convertor slippage for getting heavy loads going and/or hill starts. And the RAV4 is 800lb lighter, that is nothing to sneeze at. Only real drawback is lower GVWR on the RAV4, but I think one is going to find it a lot of work to be using these vehicles at their max's anyhow.

I did just buy a popup that I can tow; dry weight appears to be 1k pounds, GVWR 1600. Pulled it home last night, and other than not being able to see around it, the trip wasn't bad. Definately can tell it's there. But it took some time to find an old popup in my price and weight range. So, looks like I can keep my car for another year!

Pulling isn't the problem, it's all the other details of towing. That has me more worried than anything else.
 
Cool! Post a pic of your wagon+pop up! You can get the european heavy duty springs for a the Jetta Wagon. VW dealership or possibly independent parts dealers can get you the springs. Some people really load down their wagons and it helps. I think there is a euro version of the A4 Jetta that was equipped to tow 3500 lbs. Luckily, with a popup, you wont face huge aerodynamic penalties and enjoy a very low center of gravity compared to a solid side trailer.
 
Back to looking... What year did the Silverado's have the problematic instrument clusters?

With my popup camper I ran into a problem in my driveway. I can't back it up. Not without smoking the clutch. On flat ground I don't have a problem, but my driveway slopes uphill. Ergo, back to wanting an automatic for towing. A 4Runner would be lovely but I wonder if I would get a better deal on a Silverado.

But I don't know what kinds of problems I would run into on a 5 year old Silverado. Dexcool and instrument clusters, on top of whatever else may have been abused. I think I want to stick to no more than 5 years old, that way I should have no issues with the cooling system (other than needing it to be changed in short order), as I'm apt to buy from a dealer, and won't have any service records at all. Reasonable milage, short age, so, neglect should have minimal consequences. I think, I hope.

I'm looking at one local dealer, and I see an '06 with the 4.8L V8. That should have the better 4L65 I know, but the lower output 4.8 (275hp vs 300? I know that answer is up above in the thread someplace). But the price is more akin to what I'd be willing to spend. I've nixed the the big camper idea, just too much cost and hassle. I feel a bit of pressure coming up on me, as my VW needs to go to the dealer in short order for rust repairs; and that means either a rental for 2-3 weeks, or ___.
 
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^^^Great trucks, we still have an 05 in our fleet with over 100k miles. Only thing it ever needed was a steering shaft update and an AC module, and the shaft is simply an annoyance.

Make sure you shop, they can be had with shorter gears (3.73) and a locker rear. This makes a 4.8/5.3 tow much better. They will also come with an aux. trans cooler and a factory hitch and wiring set up.

Ours have all been pretty darn good work trucks, and they can get surprisingly good mileage.
 
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