We own a 2000 Volvo V70 XC AWD. Wow. NICE!

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Mar 31, 2012
Messages
1,710
Location
Boston, MA
This car is awesome.

The T5 purrrs like a kitty.

Those seats.. Nice.
The radio? Great.
Sunroof (Moonroof?) Fog lights.. I did 85 in it today.
laugh.gif


Now, my large friend drove it. She fits! She will need a seatbelt extender (misses by a few inches) but.. It works. The Volvo is bigger and nicer than the Subaru.

$2000, year 2000, 131,589 miles. i dontknow how we did it, but, there isnt ANY issue with this. Not a one.

.
 
Congrats! Of course, keep vigilant because the car is an unknown. I'd try to at least baseline ALL fluids, get a good new set of matched tires, and see what the weak points are and check them or even preemptively fix. Do you have any records?
 
Originally Posted By: 01rangerxl
It's about time she picked something.

I thought the ABS light was on?



I thought so, too. I turned the car off and it went off and stayed off. Now, once while I was driving, the speedometer went down to 0MPH and stayed there for "3 minutes." So some sort of weird, strange loose wire. (Once cruise control didnt work until i turned it off and then back on at tool plaza. Put 1000 miles on it today. I love this engine.) However, we told the Jeeps to go take a hike, she CAN fit (really what it is is that she likes the car)
wink.gif
.. heated seats.. moonroof (difference from sun?) .. 131,589 miles.

This was a GRAND SLAM for $2000 Cash, FLAT.
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Congrats! Of course, keep vigilant because the car is an unknown. I'd try to at least baseline ALL fluids, get a good new set of matched tires, and see what the weak points are and check them or even preemptively fix. Do you have any records?


I have no records, but as of this week, ALL fluids are getting reset. I have some visible baked/burnt sludge on the filler cap. This is the T5.

I will put Moly in the new fill I want to go Redline, LGR in the trans (1 bottle or two?) and check out the other fluids, yes. Maybe even drip a little Steel Seal in the radiator as preventative maintenance?

JHZR2 I know you cant see the car (I took a video it didnt upload) but this one is NICE. NO rust. Inspected until April 2013. Its really a steal..... Amd we have the Bill Of Sale and Title...
 
541203_404596612940224_262300711_n_zps73b5fbd2.jpg

340120_404593369607215_780158285_o_zpsef896523.jpg

322574_404596692940216_786896330_o_zps3705d8f8.jpg

314234_404599746273244_851656369_n_zpscc14bac6.jpg


*Florida plate was a spare the dealer had. Plate is optional when you have Bill Of Sale, as per Massachusetts law. (Until you get it registered.)
 
https://www.midwest-abs.com/

Have this guy fix your ABS module. I did mine myself, but I don't recommend doing that unless you're a ninja with a soldering iron (I'm not). I ended up having to open the case up 3 times to get it right. Major hassle. This guy rocks, he's done a ton of them, and it's a one-time fix. Your ABS/traction control/speedo issue is definitely going to come up again; hot weather, cold weather, bad pavement, you name it.

Besides that, they're solid cars. Change the driveline fluids ASAP, since I doubt they've ever been changed (bevel gear, rear differential and transmission). Most importantly, if the timing belt change hasn't been documented, do it immediately and change everything (water pump, pulleys and tensioner. DO NOT REUSE THE TENSIONER no matter what you read on the interwebs). Take of of this stuff, service the PCV system and it'll treat you well.
 
Originally Posted By: GearheadTool
. . i dontknow how we did it, but, there isnt ANY issue with this. Not a one.


. . . except for the sludge you mentioned elsewhere.

A big congrats nevertheless. Welcome to the community. When these are right, they're great cars.

Where to start . . .

Where are the service records, and what was done? Are you getting a warranty? I suspect not, for what you paid.

Flush: Brakes, ATX, t-fer case, coolant. No exceptions. Use high quality fluids. Don't reuse the seal from the ATX line if you do it. If a shop does the ATX (@$200), have them clean the ATX screen.

Check: timing belt, ABS module, odo gear, AC evap, heater core, t-stat., side and upper engine mounts, stabilizer links & tie ends. If ANY doubts, replace the timing belt. This is an interference engine. If you replace the T-belt, replace the idlers, tensioner, serpentine, and the water pump too. That's $750-$900. A good indy will suggest the side engine mount at this time if there's any doubt.

If the coolant hoses are original, I'd seriously consider replacing them. This one doesn't look garage-kept.

If the AC was recently charged or doesn't work, you have an evap leak. That's a big-dollar repair, or a lot of work and $500 if you do it.

On a turbo, I'd also put fresh plugs in to be safe. Use only the Volvo ones.

Remove the flame trap if installed and replace the air filter. Check the entire intake tract for leaks. Clean the throttle body. Also check the cabin filter and replace. If the driver side wiper is skipping at end of range, you'll need to replace the arm.

Keep an eye on the neutral shift switch. When they fail, the car sometimes won't start.

If the battery is a G47, consider upgrading to a G48/H6, especially that far north.

If the tailgate rattles, you'll need to by a kit to replace all the broken plastic fastener anchors.

FCP Groton has the best online parts. If you want it to hold up, use OEM or Genuine Volvo whenever possible.

Getting a copy of Vadis or Vida is a good idea if you are doing the work. Get friendly over at SS or Matthew's if you need finer tips.

. . . OR, you can find a good Volvo indy, and have them go over the car for you. Bring a check book.

Either way, I'd set aside no less than $1,500 for these and other "odds and ends" basics that you will likely encounter over the next 3-6 mos.

I already covered how to de-sludge it in the other thread.

Despite all of that, a big congrats again and all the best with it.
 
Originally Posted By: GearheadTool
I will put Moly in the new fill I want to go Redline, LGR in the trans (1 bottle or two?) and check out the other fluids, yes. Maybe even drip a little Steel Seal in the radiator as preventative maintenance?


No offense, but you should not do ANY of this with this car if it is in any kind of decent shape.
 
Originally Posted By: GearheadTool

*Florida plate was a spare the dealer had. Plate is optional when you have Bill Of Sale, as per Massachusetts law. (Until you get it registered.)


I would go ahead and get it properly registered and inspected fairly soon. Do you have a quotable source for that "law"? In fact I would try to get it to fail inspection for the speedo issue as it might/should force the dealer to fix it on their dime. You have a short window, could be 72 hours.


32.gif
What's up with the $1200 civic parked next to it?
laugh.gif
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
32.gif
What's up with the $1200 civic parked next to it?
laugh.gif


I'm guessing it has a messed up front end judging by how the hood is lifting up at the edge of the pic.
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
I would go ahead and get it properly registered and inspected fairly soon. Do you have a quotable source for that "law"? In fact I would try to get it to fail inspection for the speedo issue as it might/should force the dealer to fix it on their dime. You have a short window, could be 72 hours.


I didn't realize it didn't have a current inspection. Likely as-is too.
shocked2.gif


The speedo fix is usually ABS related, especially if it's throwing an ABS lamp. A simple known module repair on them to replace weak caps is about $100. If the module is more thoroughly tanked, that's $400+, just for the part. Occasionally you can find a boneyard pull from Erie, but it should still go out for the module upgrade.

A lot of strip center used lots don't know the first thing about these cars, and wind up causing more damage when they "fix" them.

I genuinely don't want to rain on anyone's new buy. But I sincerely hope the OP knows what he's getting into.
 
Originally Posted By: Volvohead
Originally Posted By: GearheadTool
. . i dontknow how we did it, but, there isnt ANY issue with this. Not a one.


. . . except for the sludge you mentioned elsewhere.

And a broken speedo.
 
Originally Posted By: Volvohead
Originally Posted By: eljefino
I would go ahead and get it properly registered and inspected fairly soon. Do you have a quotable source for that "law"? In fact I would try to get it to fail inspection for the speedo issue as it might/should force the dealer to fix it on their dime. You have a short window, could be 72 hours.


I didn't realize it didn't have a current inspection. Likely as-is too.
shocked2.gif



Mass requires you to reinspect a car you buy even if it has a current sticker. Kind of weird that way. Although a good sign that it passed a few months ago. It's hard or impossible for a dealer to sell something as is (no warranty of inspectability) unless, IIRC, it's for less than $700.

The Florida plate thing is bogus though. Should be dealt with ASAP. Running a plate not assigned to one's car is a fairly heavy duty crime (not "infraction") in most places.
 
That's good news.

Here in PA, no reputable dealer will sell any vehicle w/o a current safety and emissions (if applicable) stickers on it. However, there are plenty of as-is, no-warranty sales for cars in that price range, especially one like this. At that price point, the dealer has very little margin for free repairs once it leaves the lot.

A current inspection just means that you're less likely to get killed in the thing right away. It's no guarantee that the thing isn't going to torture you with candy breaking left and right.

You can spend $2,000 repairing a 12 y/o XC in a heartbeat. The more the OP can get repaired on the seller's tab, the better.
 
I actually used to pick up our fleet trucks in Ludlow, Mass. The GM Factory Authorized upfitter is there, and transport was (and still is) very expensive.

Drove them home with NO PLATES! Used to just tape the certificate of origin and a bill of sale on the back and head for Florida.

Done it a few times. Had more than one LEO zoom up and look hard, but never was stopped or bothered.
 
WHOA! Ok, hold up a sec.

Some of you guys are getting the facts on this wrong.

Lets start with some corrections:

Quote:
I wasnt aware it didnt have a current inspection


The inspection is a valid Massachusetts inspection until 04/2013 or April 2013. And eljefino I have not been able to confirm the "You need a new sticker even if present one is valid" thing. If that turns out to be the case I am sure my friend will ask me to find an inspection station, and I am one step ahead of the game there. However, I havent been able to confirm this. It is a valid sticker!

Moving on:

Quote:
except for the speedo issue


There isnt a bona-fide "Speedo issue." What happened was, late last night after driving for an hour and a half and loving it, the speedo dropped from 60MPH to 0MPH and didnt work for "Three minutes." Then it fixed itself. (?) The ABS and Hill Descent (?) lights didnt come on then, but DID when i first bought it. Turning car off/on fixed this. Lastly, once the cruise stopped working. Turning it off/on at the Mass pike fixed that too. Its .. weird.

Quote:
sludge


Yes, the oil cap looks burnt and black sludgy. I will likely be using Redline Group V synthetic oil, but easing it in slow, for paranoia reasons. A nice sealed engine, it is. Now to take care of that turbo with good RL 0W-30 oil, which is more like a 40.. No conventional for this...

Mileage: 131, 589

I gassed up with Premium fuel

Everything works

NO RUST but I am tempted to POR15 the bottom anyways. Id take a pic if youw ant to see. Its CLEAN! And its outside right now.

This car was marked $2200 I bought it for $2000 cash money.

Now I will re-read VOlvohead's post!

And WHY is it not a good idea to Moly, LGR, redline SI-1 fuel additive the car? ? ? Why?

Quote:
Done it a few times. Had more than one LEO zoom up and look hard, but never was stopped or bothered.


Correct. My friend (works at the lawyer's office of Goodwin **** not saying the whole thing, is not a lawyer) says that if you have the Bill Of Sale and title, dated within a certain time, from the seller, then no plates are needed. Upon likely though not inevitable (?) stop by LEO, you can then prove what you have to. The dealer had a plate and we threw it on, they were paid. Filled out paperwork to my friend's name, we owe $125 to RMV when we go there (tax) and all is well. The Florida one-plate thing works well; and not only was the inspection in lower-left corner from a sifferent State (Commonwealth?)
confused.gif
a non-issue.. I didnt see not one cop. Did about 80 the whole way too. I like how it feels at 85
laugh.gif


SteveSRT8, I reside in Weymouth. We border Quincy and Braintree. I was in Pepperell yesterday, right close to MH/NA line (Nashua was not far away, picked up highway in Groton.) Hit the highway South to Mass Pike and im golden... This car came from Pepperrell, a one-owner one title (original) car.

This was basically a barnyard find! Im still stupefied.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top