Parallax?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Nov 9, 2008
Messages
23,872
Location
NH
I recently bought a 10/22, and thought about putting initially a red dot on it, then I thought about a scope. Then I read up on how to add it to the 10/22, and decided to leave it with the factory sights. For now, anyhow.

Anyhow, I was told to use a centerfire scope, as rimfires usually have parallax at 50 yards, whereas centerfire is either 100 yards or infinity. My question is, just how much does it matter?

My limited understanding is that, if I use a scope with parallax at 50 yards, and I look at something that is 50 yards away, I can shift my head around, but the target will stay centered on the crosshairs. If I look at something 100 yards away though, any movement of my head will make the target appear to move. My question is would such error be within what normal 22lr bulk fodder would run for a grouping at such a distance? SV or HV, I know SV will group better (stays subsonic) but I generally don't shoot "premium" 22lr.

[I decided to leave my 10/22 stock for now, as a 25 yard or less plinker. If I get serious about 100 yard "plinking" I think I'll go centerfire, that way I can reach out all the further if I wanted to.]
 
Scopes can be adjusted for zero parallax at any given range. Any magnification ratio besides 1:1 will exhibit parallax at all but one specific range. Higher magnification -> more parallax

More expensive scopes with adjustable objective lenses can have their zero parallax distance set in the field.

With this in mind, however, if you sight in the gun with a good cheek weld your eye will be in the same spot for each shot and the effect of the parallax will be minimal; well within the error of a stock 10-22 with bulk ammo.

All in all, a vastly overrated problem.

Steve
 
I fully agree. From what I've seen, parallax error has to be pretty extreme to enlarge groups as much as the average shooter or ammo/gun combination.

I use a standard scope on my 10-22. If I keep my cheek to the stock but move my eye within any reasonable space, I might shift the crosshairs a quarter inch at 50 yards. Changing ammo brands (or lot numbers sometimes) will do that much.
 
Good to know, thanks. I couldn't see spending an extra $100 on a scope (or whatever dollar amount) for something that was going to be dominated by ammunition (and user) errors.

Thanks.
 
While I agree with the first 2 posters that the parallax errors at ranges the .22 can shoot at are small, they are important for any serious target or competition shooting, even with standard ammo.

I bought my son a Ruger VLEH 10/22 earlier this year which he is using for informal competition so far. As he is 7, the pull length is too long and he can not get a good cheek weld. So the parallax can have an effect.

The VLEH 10/22 will easily shoot a 1/2" group at 50 yds and 1" at 100yds with my 7 year old at the trigger.

The gun currently has a Zeiss Conquest 3-9 X 40 MC scope. That was a mistake for our shooting because:

1. Parallax is fixed at 100yd unless you send it to the factory for a custom parallax range.
2. No AO, see above
3. No target (elevation) turret knob option (.22s drop about 6" from 50 to 100 yd zero, that's a lot of adjusting)
4. Not enough power for competition shooting

My advice is to keep researching and buy the best possible scope and mounts you can afford.

I will likely go with the Zeiss Conquest 4.5-14x50 AO MC mil dot next.
 
6" drop, eh? I hadn't looked it up, but I knew it was up there. I suspect I'm not going to scope this 10/22, I'd rather get a centerfire I think. This 10/22 is going to be used too much at different ranges to deal with that much sight adjustment. Centerfire, or a dedicated 100yard rimfire--either way, with good optics.
 
Target Rounds
22subsonic_plot.gif

High Velocity Rounds:
22hv_plot.gif
 
Originally Posted By: supton
...This 10/22 is going to be used too much at different ranges to deal with that much sight adjustment. Centerfire, or a dedicated 100yard rimfire--either way, with good optics.


A scope with a good target elevation turret or with a mil-dot reticle to show holdover makes it all a lot easier. You can tape a card on the stock to show your adjustments and it's repeatable accuracy every time.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top