Amsoil OE 0W20, 4,834 Miles, 2008 Tundra 5.7L V8

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Originally Posted By: DavesTundra
Double checked the manual and Toyota scheduled maintenance manual for the 2008 Tundra 5.7L. Recommends 5k OCI regardless if using dino/syn. Amsoil OE states that it should be run for the OEM recommended interval. Thus, I decided to check it at 5k before going longer. The UOA suggests it can be run for longer than 5k...So, next time I run this stuff, I will go 7,500 miles and UOA it.

So, I don't exactly call this a waste of syn. If I were to go and run 5k again, ya, it would be a waste of syn. This first run was part of my procedure to run this oil for longer than recommended OCI. If you think that is flawed, you are F.O.S.

Jumping from brand/grade to other brand/grade is a whole different story and could be discussed elsewhere I suppose. Considering the original purpose of this thread, it really does not need to be debated here, I suppose. My bad for bringing it up.

Thanks!!


I found the manual online and agree; 5k miles is the OEM OCI.

As for the extension, that could also be done with a dino fluid and UOAs; that concept is not unique to only synthetics.

As to the topic of "waste", it's all a matter of ROI. If you pay more for a syn (which one surely does) then you'd have to be able to drive that product further than the alternative, to make it pay for itself. Using a syn and dumping it at the OEM OCI is a waste, regardless if you define it that way or not. With few exceptions, OEM OCIs are not prediated on the use of syns. Therefore, a 4.8k mile syn OCI is a waste here. And because you jumped ship over to the GC, you have not developed a solid baseline for drawing any conclusions. The same will be true if you jump from the GC ...

You have not run a series of UOAs on conventional fluids (I presume because you've not posted them and you state this UOA is your first UOA), so you have no idea how far you can safely run a conventional lube. Therefore, you have no idea where the ROI brakepoint would be for the alternative of running the OE Amsoil (or any other synthetic lube). If your synthetic choice costs 2.5x more money, then you'd have to use it 2.5x further just to break even on investment. Since you probably don't know how far a dino oil can go, you have no basis to know where the syn breakpoint is.

As for the "original purpose of the thread", I'm not really sure what you're referring to. You actually don't mention any theme or purpose for your post, nor mention anything that would limit our comments. Most of us post up UOAs to show performance of products/equipment, and then have people comment.
You posted.
I commented.


I'm not trying to pick on you; I apologize if it comes off that way. But you're new to this site (and maybe or maybe not the concepts of UOAs) and your posts lead me to believe you have no real methodology in your maintenance plans. Nothing wrong with that; you have that right. But when you post the evidence of such endeavors, you're going to be challenged occasionally to defend your choices. That's all. If you can say with certainty that this is an emotional ride for you and you do it simply because you enjoy it and admit it's not rational, I have no problem with that and can accept that at face value. But if you say "it's better" without being able to define for defend such a statement, and show no logical plan to determine such cause, I'm inclined to challenge it.

Sorry if offended you; wasn't my intent.
 
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Originally Posted By: Artem
^It's just not recommended to jump between different oils due to them having different levels of additives and the "POSSIBILITY" that it "COULD" screw things up.

If you're doing extended OCIs, it's best to stick to the same brand so the additives stabilize and you get consistent data. I've seen TBN retention get better with each consecutive UOA with the same brand of oil after switching from something else.


thanks. good information here.
 
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
Originally Posted By: DavesTundra
Double checked the manual and Toyota scheduled maintenance manual for the 2008 Tundra 5.7L. Recommends 5k OCI regardless if using dino/syn. Amsoil OE states that it should be run for the OEM recommended interval. Thus, I decided to check it at 5k before going longer. The UOA suggests it can be run for longer than 5k...So, next time I run this stuff, I will go 7,500 miles and UOA it.

So, I don't exactly call this a waste of syn. If I were to go and run 5k again, ya, it would be a waste of syn. This first run was part of my procedure to run this oil for longer than recommended OCI. If you think that is flawed, you are F.O.S.

Jumping from brand/grade to other brand/grade is a whole different story and could be discussed elsewhere I suppose. Considering the original purpose of this thread, it really does not need to be debated here, I suppose. My bad for bringing it up.

Thanks!!


I found the manual online and agree; 5k miles is the OEM OCI.

As for the extension, that could also be done with a dino fluid and UOAs; that concept is not unique to only synthetics.

As to the topic of "waste", it's all a matter of ROI. If you pay more for a syn (which one surely does) then you'd have to be able to drive that product further than the alternative, to make it pay for itself. Using a syn and dumping it at the OEM OCI is a waste, regardless if you define it that way or not. With few exceptions, OEM OCIs are not prediated on the use of syns. Therefore, a 4.8k mile syn OCI is a waste here. And because you jumped ship over to the GC, you have not developed a solid baseline for drawing any conclusions. The same will be true if you jump from the GC ...

You have not run a series of UOAs on conventional fluids (I presume because you've not posted them and you state this UOA is your first UOA), so you have no idea how far you can safely run a conventional lube. Therefore, you have no idea where the ROI brakepoint would be for the alternative of running the OE Amsoil (or any other synthetic lube). If your synthetic choice costs 2.5x more money, then you'd have to use it 2.5x further just to break even on investment. Since you probably don't know how far a dino oil can go, you have no basis to know where the syn breakpoint is.

As for the "original purpose of the thread", I'm not really sure what you're referring to. You actually don't mention any theme or purpose for your post, nor mention anything that would limit our comments. Most of us post up UOAs to show performance of products/equipment, and then have people comment.
You posted.
I commented.


I'm not trying to pick on you; I apologize if it comes off that way. But you're new to this site (and maybe or maybe not the concepts of UOAs) and your posts lead me to believe you have no real methodology in your maintenance plans. Nothing wrong with that; you have that right. But when you post the evidence of such endeavors, you're going to be challenged occasionally to defend your choices. That's all. If you can say with certainty that this is an emotional ride for you and you do it simply because you enjoy it and admit it's not rational, I have no problem with that and can accept that at face value. But if you say "it's better" without being able to define for defend such a statement, and show no logical plan to determine such cause, I'm inclined to challenge it.

Sorry if offended you; wasn't my intent.

Cool...and I apologize if I came off that I was trying to say one was BETTER than the other. I guess that I really am not trying to prove one brand over the other...instead, just trying to see how long my interval should be for an oil...and even multiple brands. Only way I know how to do that is by doing a UOA. Getting mutliple UOA to get more data points to unveil a trend is good, yes. So is doing periodic UOA to see engine wear. Good ideas.

Thanks for your input and good intentions.
 
Originally Posted By: DavesTundra
Originally Posted By: donnyj08
i understand getting a deal on the 30wt, but i don't see the logic in the thicker oil. 20wt is what is spec'd for that vehicle, and i am going to venture to say it is what is best for that vehicles engine. im not saying the 30wt is going to Kill it or fuel economy or anything like that. however, i believe that the 20wt will provide the best overall protection. toyota knows a little something about engines, and if they say 20wt is best, i would think your best bet will be to continue using a 20wt oil. just my thoughts.


I think your thoughts are logical. I just felt like trying something new and will UOA it for results. No doubt 20 weight is fine, same with 30. There are many who believe 20 was spec'd due to satisfying emissions standards (fuel economy). However, I see no difference in fuel economy thus far, also, other folks running 30 weight on this engine are stating the same. It may be some politics. The Toyota manual on this truck states it may be suitable to use a different grade other than 20 if conditions permit...So, I am not worried about using 30.

I mean it when I say, Thanks for the reasonable reply by you. Some folks on this forum seem unreasonable.


I try my best to be reasonable. i find that respect goes a long way. Im just a fan of the 20wt oils. they are great, they protect great and flow even better. But, the line of oil thickness between 5w20 and 5w30 is often very minimal, factual, but minimal. i see you live in tx a hot climate, so 5w30 isnt going to be overly thick at all. the main thing is that you are comfortable with the oil you use, and that the uoa's show good wear #s. I like the Amsoil OE line of oils, i run them in my Hemi Ram, and am well pleased thus far. Good luck!
 
Originally Posted By: Tones
Si is pretty high for only 5k miles. I would be trying to bring that down.

Seriously?

And how do you propose I bring it down from where it is now?
 
You probably recently changed the air filter, make sure it is fitting well and properly seated. Do you have an aftermarket air filter? These can pass more Si. Make sure all the air hose clamps fit well and are tight. Do these have a screw-in PCV? Mine has a grommet. Make sure the PCV (and grommet) is properly installed and I like to put some sealant between the shoulder of the PCV and grommet to ensure there are no leaks.
 
Originally Posted By: Tones
You probably recently changed the air filter, make sure it is fitting well and properly seated. Do you have an aftermarket air filter? These can pass more Si. Make sure all the air hose clamps fit well and are tight. Do these have a screw-in PCV? Mine has a grommet. Make sure the PCV (and grommet) is properly installed and I like to put some sealant between the shoulder of the PCV and grommet to ensure there are no leaks.


Yea, The Donaldson Powercore filter I am using only has about 9k miles on it. These are good filters, pretty efficient and don't let much through. Everything is tight...will just have to see how the numbers look next UOA, which should be a 10k OCI. Good news, the wear numbers are acceptable so I am not really worried about anything.
 
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