I replaced the rear calipers on my 2007 Accord, and we bled the rears without too much air. The pedal feels fine when pumping it while the car is off. When I turn it on and drove it, the pedal is spongy and goes almost to the floor. We re-bled all 4 corners, and still no change---hard off and soft running. I have done this job before on other cars and never had this issue. Please help if you know a way to fix this! Thanks...
Replace rear calipers--now spongy pedal
- Thread starter JMHC
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A spongy pedal is almost always pointing to air in the system, you will need to keep bleeding until you get that air out.
Did you also check if you properly aligned the tabs on the pads to the cross grooves on the caliper piston?
Did you also check if you properly aligned the tabs on the pads to the cross grooves on the caliper piston?
Originally Posted By: chrome
A spongy pedal is almost always pointing to air in the system, you will need to keep bleeding until you get that air out.
Did you also check if you properly aligned the tabs on the pads to the cross grooves on the caliper piston?
Thanks for the quick reply...I did make sure the slots were in line with the nub on the pads. There appears to be no air coming out any longer...can it be trapped somewhere that bleeding can't get to it?
A spongy pedal is almost always pointing to air in the system, you will need to keep bleeding until you get that air out.
Did you also check if you properly aligned the tabs on the pads to the cross grooves on the caliper piston?
Thanks for the quick reply...I did make sure the slots were in line with the nub on the pads. There appears to be no air coming out any longer...can it be trapped somewhere that bleeding can't get to it?
Did you use the correct bleed sequence of LF, RF, RR, LR?
I first-hand, saw a spongy brake pedal corrected on a Fit by rebleeding with the proper sequence outlined above. Previously, it was bled by the RR, LR, RF, LF sequence.
I first-hand, saw a spongy brake pedal corrected on a Fit by rebleeding with the proper sequence outlined above. Previously, it was bled by the RR, LR, RF, LF sequence.
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Did you use the correct bleed sequence of LF, RF, RR, LR?
I first-hand, saw a spongy brake pedal corrected on a Fit by rebleeding with the proper sequence outlined above. Previously, it was bled by the RR, LR, RF, LF sequence.
Initially I just bled the rear, then I did do the sequence above. Should I just keep going with it even though no air seems to be coming out?
Did you use the correct bleed sequence of LF, RF, RR, LR?
I first-hand, saw a spongy brake pedal corrected on a Fit by rebleeding with the proper sequence outlined above. Previously, it was bled by the RR, LR, RF, LF sequence.
Initially I just bled the rear, then I did do the sequence above. Should I just keep going with it even though no air seems to be coming out?
yeah, keep on going. I would bet $100 the problem is air. Good thing brake fluid is cheap
If you do the LF, RF, RR, LR sequence it should work. At least that's what the shop manual for the TSX (same brake system as Accord, IIRC) is telling me.
When you replaced the rear calipers, did you allow the system to run dry? If you did, you may need to remove the master cylinder and bench bleed it first.
I've found that sometimes, manual bleeding won't get all of the air bubbles out if a hydraulic component was replaced; you may need to pressure bleed.
When you replaced the rear calipers, did you allow the system to run dry? If you did, you may need to remove the master cylinder and bench bleed it first.
I've found that sometimes, manual bleeding won't get all of the air bubbles out if a hydraulic component was replaced; you may need to pressure bleed.
I was thinking the pressure bleed may be needed for a tough bubble somewhere. Would this be a job for the dealer?
My local Sears had a pressure bleeder and they did a brake fluid flush on my dad's van using it, for $35 last week.
Just make sure they are aware of the proper bleed sequence and they use it.
Just make sure they are aware of the proper bleed sequence and they use it.
Originally Posted By: The Critic
My local Sears had a pressure bleeder and they did a brake fluid flush on my dad's van using it, for $35 last week.
Just make sure they are aware of the proper bleed sequence and they use it.
Great thanks. If the bleed sequence doesn't work I'll get it pressure bled. Much appreciated!
My local Sears had a pressure bleeder and they did a brake fluid flush on my dad's van using it, for $35 last week.
Just make sure they are aware of the proper bleed sequence and they use it.
Great thanks. If the bleed sequence doesn't work I'll get it pressure bled. Much appreciated!
Unless you totally screwed up the bleed, the probable cause here is your master cylinder. Change it.
Cars have dual circuit brakes, which means that if one circuit fails, you get back up (usually the rears), this is what you feel in the pedal, you're juicing only the rears.
Change the master. Re bleed the system.
Cars have dual circuit brakes, which means that if one circuit fails, you get back up (usually the rears), this is what you feel in the pedal, you're juicing only the rears.
Change the master. Re bleed the system.
How did you do the original bleed? Did you put 2x4 under the brake pedal to prevent it from traveling more than normal? If you did not, then it is highly likely that the master cylinder piston entered in to region which it normally does not and has caused the seal to fail.
Sure , bleeding is #1.
New pads have to seat, and the new calipers might need looking at, too.
New pads have to seat, and the new calipers might need looking at, too.
So I used a trick my friend recommended to use the driver's seat and a 2x4 to keep the pedal down for 24 hours to force the air out. After that, I bled again with the proper Honda sequence. 3/4 had no air, but 1 rear caliper produced a ton of bubbles. Now the pedal is back to normal. Thanks for the replies.
How would holding the pedal down force air out? Out where? Bleeders open? Once the pedal is down,there is no pressure/force.
Bleeders closed? Even more so.
I think it would have been fine with just another good bleed.
Bleeders closed? Even more so.
I think it would have been fine with just another good bleed.
I did the 2 person method but I have always done it with the car off. Do it with the car on? Does that help?
I am also wondering why they had the car running. I always do it with the car off.
Originally Posted By: zzyzzx
I am also wondering why they had the car running. I always do it with the car off.
The vacuum assist would help in forcing the air out.
I am also wondering why they had the car running. I always do it with the car off.
The vacuum assist would help in forcing the air out.
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