How do I..

[2cool]

...go about buying a complete M1911-style lower only? What should I look for and what might the price range be?
I am intrigued by the Mec-Tec carbine upper in .460 Rowland. I have a revolver and a lever-gun in .357, so the additional carbine would be for hunting first and SD second. The Rowland interests me because it's basically a .45ACP loaded to almost double the pressure. Seems like it would have plenty of "ooomph" out to 125yds. for anything likely in the Northeast. Easy to reload too, as you only need to adjust .45 dies like you do for .38/.357. If the velocity and energy claims can be believed, it might be able to turn cover into concealment out to 100 yds. Anybody have any experience with a Mec-Tec and/or .460 Rowland?

 

[2cool]

WOW!!! Nobody here has ever bought an auto pistol lower in order to customize it?! I'm honestly shocked.

 

[turbodieselfreak]

Allrighty, I'll bite. Brownell's sells 1911 lowers in various states of finish/required fitting. Caspian and a sti come to mind off the top of my head, there's a few others that I can't blow the mind cobweb off of right now. They aren't cheap and will require an FFL to take delivery, as the frame is considered the actual firearm by BATFE. You could also try gunbroker, maybe find a nice used but good condition frame-the same shipping rules will apply, so work in your shop's transfer fee into the price. Had considered the .460 for boar hunting myself, but worked up a load in my Ruger old army that should dispatch small boar just fine. If I were considering that upper you're looking at, I'd just buy a complete 1911 to go with it and have me a twofer.

 

[SuperDave456]

If I was going to build a true 1911 I would go with an aluminum frame.

If I was to build a carbine, potentially in .460 Rowland or any others, .400 Cor-Bon, .400 Dillon, etc. I think I would go ahead and buy a steel frame.

You can do just about anything to a steel frame and fix it. Aluminum isn't as forgiving.

Other than that you are on your own. I have 1 1911 currently and parts for another 2. Frames and pieces just got to expensive for me to justify any more than the 1 I have.

Perhaps frames will come down, like AR-15 parts, due to CNC machines becoming so prevalent in the marketplace, but I have no idea how long that might take.

 

[DuckRyder]

Originally Posted By: 2cool
WOW!!! Nobody here has ever bought an auto pistol lower in order to customize it?! I'm honestly shocked.


Perhaps a more descriptive title may have attracted more of us who have the knowledge?

A stated the frame is the firearm, you'll have to have it transferred at an FFL like any other firearm (unless you yourself are an FFL of course).

You can go from cheap to not cheap (Example Armscor frame from Sarco (cheap) or Wilson frame from Wilson or Brownell's (not cheap)). I believe that Rowland is not recommended for cast frames (which rules out cheap).

You can expect to buy some tools (files and reamers at a minimum) as well as internals to assemble it. Nothing is a drop in and a bare frame is usually just that (IE no plunger tube, no grip bushings, no finish.) What I am saying here is just buy yourself 1911, unless you already have a pretty extensive 1911 tool kit, it will be more cost effective.

 

[2cool]

Thank you DuckRyder for the reality check concerning basic frames; and thanks to all for your replies.
My last experience with an M1911A3 was in 1983. I just did unit level maintenance on it. For all those headaches, I agree that buying a used steel frame pistol and getting the upper is the cost effective way to go. Now, how to pay for it?!?!

 

[Robenstein]

Sell plasma....LOL

 

[2cool]

Thanks, I'll have to keep that one in case my first plan doesn't work.