1995 Ford Taurus

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Best motor oil for it? Thanks. 104,000 miles, unknown condition.

Thinking Redline 0W-20, since its really the lightest 30-weight around. ?
 
We put 354K on that engine in a 91 Ranger with M1 10-30 with 10-14K OCIs. Valve coverrs were never removed and still ran graet when it was sold last year.
 
Originally Posted By: tig1
We put 354K on that engine in a 91 Ranger with M1 10-30 with 10-14K OCIs. Valve coverrs were never removed and still ran graet when it was sold last year.


10W-30? Can I do M1 AFE 0W-30? Im really thinking of a thick 0W-20, normal 5W-20 or 0W-30 solution. (Fuel economy, and all.) Unless I just use off the shelf conventional?

No Redline 0W-20? (btw.. What engine is it?)

Im buying this tomorrow, ill have the oil changed in a week ill bet.
 
Most likely a Vulcan 3.0L but it could also be a Essex 3.8L. Vulcans are rock solid. Essex I believe is prone to headgasket issues.
 
Originally Posted By: Need4racin
Why would you put redline in it. just put the cheapest oil in it.


Which one? Why not Redline 0W-20 with 6000k OCIs? Would that be a problem? Maybe the car isnt the "Cheapest oil on the shelf" kind of vehicle to me?

Im already sold on a thin 30 that is why I keep talking about mail-ordering RL 0W-20. I want it to run forever and im just not sure I see myself going with Walmarty 5W-20 conv.
 
The 3.8L was almost guaranteed to blow head gaskets...repeatedly... even if replaced. Unfortunately, they failed so catastrophically that they usually took out the engine. The 3.0L Vulcan OTOH was a great motor...I knew a lot of vehicle owners with that engine and they were very durable.
 
Originally Posted By: GearheadTool
Originally Posted By: Need4racin
Why would you put redline in it. just put the cheapest oil in it.


Which one? Why not Redline 0W-20 with 6000k OCIs? Would that be a problem? Maybe the car isnt the "Cheapest oil on the shelf" kind of vehicle to me?

Im already sold on a thin 30 that is why I keep talking about mail-ordering RL 0W-20. I want it to run forever and im just not sure I see myself going with Walmarty 5W-20 conv.


Then put a group III "walmarty" 5W-30 or AFE 0W-30 if you'd like. I'm not sure why you'd want to put an XW-20 in this thing...

Depending on the driving style, I don't see a reason to spend so much on an oil at that interval, unless spending money on boutique oils gives you that much extra peace of mind.
 
Originally Posted By: GearheadTool
Originally Posted By: Need4racin
Why would you put redline in it. just put the cheapest oil in it.


Which one? Why not Redline 0W-20 with 6000k OCIs? Would that be a problem? Maybe the car isnt the "Cheapest oil on the shelf" kind of vehicle to me?

Im already sold on a thin 30 that is why I keep talking about mail-ordering RL 0W-20. I want it to run forever and im just not sure I see myself going with Walmarty 5W-20 conv.



You gotts to be kidding me, 600k OCI? That I got to see.

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Yea, I know, it was a type error.
 
My grandma had a 93 taurus, that body style, only gold/sandy tan color. When she passed away, the car still ran great and it had close to 140k miles on it. Only thing wrong with it was the heater core went out. She ran conventional 5w-30 in it. I would think any decent conventional would be fine. If your dead set on a synthetic, I would use 0w-30 Mobil 1 AFE from wally world. Hope she treats you well!
wink.gif
 
As long as the oil has the api sticker, it's safe to run. The vehicle isn't brand new, it probably has had whatever bulk oil the oil change place uses and a fram clone.

They say a synthetic blend has the least amount of wear metals. Watch the deal forum and throw a quart of synthetic in your conventional to make a blend. I'd run purolator classics from walmart.
 
Originally Posted By: JimPghPA
Originally Posted By: GearheadTool
Originally Posted By: Need4racin
Why would you put redline in it. just put the cheapest oil in it.


Which one? Why not Redline 0W-20 with 6000k OCIs? Would that be a problem? Maybe the car isnt the "Cheapest oil on the shelf" kind of vehicle to me?

Im already sold on a thin 30 that is why I keep talking about mail-ordering RL 0W-20. I want it to run forever and im just not sure I see myself going with Walmarty 5W-20 conv.



You gotts to be kidding me, 600k OCI? That I got to see.

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Yea, I know, it was a type error.


6000 miles OCI on a blend........

Ok. Pretty sure this is a 3.0L Vulcan. Sump capacity?

And I think I have my blend figured out. Will be in the high 20-weight range. Is that fine?

I hear its a light 30. Mix half and half with ANY 5W-20 (cheap or not) and voila. MIX! Plus Group V engine care stick goodness. http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=124&pcid=21
 
Originally Posted By: GearheadTool
Originally Posted By: JimPghPA
Originally Posted By: GearheadTool
Originally Posted By: Need4racin
Why would you put redline in it. just put the cheapest oil in it.


Which one? Why not Redline 0W-20 with 6000k OCIs? Would that be a problem? Maybe the car isnt the "Cheapest oil on the shelf" kind of vehicle to me?

Im already sold on a thin 30 that is why I keep talking about mail-ordering RL 0W-20. I want it to run forever and im just not sure I see myself going with Walmarty 5W-20 conv.



You gotts to be kidding me, 600k OCI? That I got to see.

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-
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-
-
-
-
-
-

Yea, I know, it was a type error.


6000 miles OCI on a blend........

Ok. Pretty sure this is a 3.0L Vulcan. Sump capacity?

And I think I have my blend figured out. Will be in the high 20-weight range. Is that fine?

I hear its a light 30. Mix half and half with ANY 5W-20 (cheap or not) and voila. MIX! Plus Group V engine care stick goodness. http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=124&pcid=21


The sump should be about 4.75 qts. with the standard filter. I think you're way over thinking the oil for a 1995 and really aren't going to notice any significant fuel economy savings using an expensive boutique oil like Redline. Personally, I'd just use something like Pennzoil 5W-30, or QSUD/Platnium if you really wanted to go synthetic. I've had good experience running Maxlife in my mother's Vulcan 3.0L, which is an excellent high mileage syn-blend...
 
This thing doesn't need Red Line and won't benefit from it.
I'm assuming that this car has the 3.0 Vulcan.
These engines are not at all fussy about oil type or grade.
Just a good old-school sixty degree pushrod V-6 that makes no discernable power but will last for a very long time.
We had a '97 Aersostar with this engine, and fuel economy didn't vary much from Valvoline 5W-20 through M1 0W-30 (the old one, not AFE) to Tection Extra 15W-40 (ARX rinse oil).
Fuel economy depended upon how the thing was driven, not the oil.
Your Taurus should do well on near FAR Nextgen Maxlife, and if you really want a thinner synthetic oil, PP would be a good choice.
You can use the five dollar off hang tag coupons found at Walmart and then send off for the ten dollar Shell gas card MIR.
You get to use PP for around $11.00 net per jug.
The Aerostar didn't seem picky about oil filters, and you can buy a few P1s for five dollars less coupon code discount from AAP. I bought a total of ten today, and using the CCABIN discount code, I got them for thirty dollars total.
 
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