I just changed the rotors and pads on the front of my '99 Corolla. When I got done I took it for a drive. Right off the bat I noticed the brakes felt like they were dragging. I drove the car around the block and then got out to check the brakes and they were litrally smoking they were so hot. Even though I thought this was only to set the brakes on drum brakes, I tried backing up and hitting the brakes hard a few times, but they still feel the same. Is this something that will correct itself, or there something I need to do to correct it? And yes, I cleaned the new rotors off with brake cleaner before I installed them...
New rotors and pads now brakes are dragging
- Thread starter grampi
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Did the caliper pistons go back in the caliper easily? Did the caliper "float" as it should. The sliding pins and the tabs/ears of the pads, were they lubricated?
Did you remove the pad retainer clips and wire brush the bracket to remove all rust and debris?
Originally Posted By: grampi
I just changed the rotors and pads on the front of my '99 Corolla. When I got done I took it for a drive. Right off the bat I noticed the brakes felt like they were dragging. I drove the car around the block and then got out to check the brakes and they were litrally smoking they were so hot.
Driving around the block is not best way to "break-in" new pads / rotors. Your pads should have come with instruction on how to properly wear them in.
Also, if they are sticking THAT BAD, something is definitely wrong and it will NOT magically correct itself. Get in there and make sure you not only did everything properly but that you lubricated everything with the proper grease.
I just changed the rotors and pads on the front of my '99 Corolla. When I got done I took it for a drive. Right off the bat I noticed the brakes felt like they were dragging. I drove the car around the block and then got out to check the brakes and they were litrally smoking they were so hot.
Driving around the block is not best way to "break-in" new pads / rotors. Your pads should have come with instruction on how to properly wear them in.
Also, if they are sticking THAT BAD, something is definitely wrong and it will NOT magically correct itself. Get in there and make sure you not only did everything properly but that you lubricated everything with the proper grease.
^Why waste money replacing parts when we don't even know the CAUSE of the problem.
So he goes and replaces the calipers and brackets and it's still doing the same thing because perhaps the brake master cylinder went bad... You replaced perfectly good parts for absolutely no reason whatsoever.
It's idiotic advice to suggest he starts replacing parts without first diagnosing the issue.
So he goes and replaces the calipers and brackets and it's still doing the same thing because perhaps the brake master cylinder went bad... You replaced perfectly good parts for absolutely no reason whatsoever.
It's idiotic advice to suggest he starts replacing parts without first diagnosing the issue.
I'd open a bleed screw with a bleed hose and container installed and see if there is line pressure. If so, the master is probably bad. Doesn't seen likely that BOTH calipers would hang up the same way.
check to see whats wrong by checking as stated above, do calipers slide do piston move back in calipers with small effort, do pads move in caliper hanger easy, if not fix problem first if pistons don't move easy and see if fluid will come out of bleeders making it easy if so look at hoses if not look at cliper piston to be problem etc. ya gotta do some looking to be sure what is wrong.
to me this sounds like a simple case of guide pins not lubed, or seized due to moisture/corrosion.
@ OP: you should re-do the caliper guide pins and re-lube them (replace them if they deemed corroded/seized and replace the dustboot/moisture seals with kit as well).
Q.
@ OP: you should re-do the caliper guide pins and re-lube them (replace them if they deemed corroded/seized and replace the dustboot/moisture seals with kit as well).
Q.
New brakes DO drag a whole lot more than broken in parts.
There is very high friction with new rough parts that are not seated.
There is very high friction with new rough parts that are not seated.
I recall years ago sanding down pads on my Izusu(?) to fit. I even drove a 20 or 50 miles, hoping they would just wear down. In the end, 60 grit and sanding on a flat surface did the trick. [I was like 17 driving a 10+ year old truck that didn't have much further to go.]
On my VW the rear calipers decided to drag on a set of new pads. Bad calipers. Turns out somewhat common... Despite getting the recommended brake flush every 2 years.
Anyhow: did the caliper+new pads slide into place nice and smooth (like in my VW case); or did they have to be forced into place (like my Isuzu?)
On my VW the rear calipers decided to drag on a set of new pads. Bad calipers. Turns out somewhat common... Despite getting the recommended brake flush every 2 years.
Anyhow: did the caliper+new pads slide into place nice and smooth (like in my VW case); or did they have to be forced into place (like my Isuzu?)
Did you twist any brake hose?
Happen to me once. The caliper will compress but not release, so the pads will drag, and smoke.
Happen to me once. The caliper will compress but not release, so the pads will drag, and smoke.
^^^worth checking, but IME there is no need to twist them. Old hoses collapse internally.
You can't usually see it, but it locks up the brake nonetheless.
You can't usually see it, but it locks up the brake nonetheless.
Pads should be 'dry fitted' to check.
Filing/dressing ears is not uncommon, and is a good thing to do.
Either smooth sharp edges or reduce too large parts.
Filing/dressing ears is not uncommon, and is a good thing to do.
Either smooth sharp edges or reduce too large parts.
Originally Posted By: Artem
^Why waste money replacing parts when we don't even know the CAUSE of the problem.
So he goes and replaces the calipers and brackets and it's still doing the same thing because perhaps the brake master cylinder went bad... You replaced perfectly good parts for absolutely no reason whatsoever.
It's idiotic advice to suggest he starts replacing parts without first diagnosing the issue.
A 13 year old Corolla in Ohio will probably be due for calipers. They can be had for $25/ea and will stop better than he is used to. Now your response is combative and comes out to me as fighting words. Is that what you're looking for?
^Why waste money replacing parts when we don't even know the CAUSE of the problem.
So he goes and replaces the calipers and brackets and it's still doing the same thing because perhaps the brake master cylinder went bad... You replaced perfectly good parts for absolutely no reason whatsoever.
It's idiotic advice to suggest he starts replacing parts without first diagnosing the issue.
A 13 year old Corolla in Ohio will probably be due for calipers. They can be had for $25/ea and will stop better than he is used to. Now your response is combative and comes out to me as fighting words. Is that what you're looking for?
I don't believe this is a self correcting problem. I first would sit down and carefully read over the instructions that came with the new parts and determine IF I bought the correct parts. Then, I would do a visual inspection and determine if one brake was over heating or both. If this was my first attempt to do a brake job, I strongly recomend getting a friend etc who has Hands-ON experience to go thought the job again. Usually it is something simple but, can be overlooked a dozen time with one set of eye. Ed
It turns out only the left side was dragging. I pulled that side apart again and checked everything you guys mentioned. Everything looked good and appeared to be in working order. Put it back together and everything is fine now. I don't really know what was causing the problem as nothing appeared to be wrong. Thanks for all the input.
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