Civic 07 LX Automatic Tranny

[Gito]

A good friend of mine who owns an 07 Honda Civic LX Automatic is wondering if the car has a tranny filter and if it easy to change the tranny oil? What is the interval change for the water pump and should the serpentine belt and tensioner be replaced with the water pump. My friend said that honda stated that there is no time interval for the water pump and should only be changed when there is an issue, like a fluid leak...Honda charges 110.00 dollars to change the tranny oil. My friend found a place that would replace it for 48.00 dollars. I was surprised that the dealer would tell my friend that there is no time interval for the water pump. Labor to change the water pump was quoted at 300.00 dollars plus 60.00 for the water pump.

How often should the Automatic tranny oil be changed and which type of oil is best for such car?

 

[Quest]

Yes, even my local Honda/Acura dealerships no longer require water pump replacement during scheduled timing belt change interval, citing that unless there's a leak or similar, otherwise: no need to replace the waterpump.

This is particularly true given the fact that nowadays most Japanese cars run on H-OAT coolant which is silicate-free. Longevity seems to be great! (ditto with my dad's 7th gen civic, which I have not replace it's original water pump (gone past 163k already).

As for Honda A/T trannie, I typically goes with drain-n-fill, using Castrol import ATF.

Q.

 

[Artem]

Wow that's a lot of information in one paragraph...

I own a 2007 Civic EX Auto and replace the transmission fluid every 60k with Amsoil ATF. Mobil 1 also makes great ATF fluid but I simply prefer Amsoil.

The transmission has an internal magnet that is not accessible, so don't worry about it.

The shop that is quoting to do it cheaper will either cut corners, use really cheap poor quality fluid or both. I wouldn't trust them personally. Get a proper tranny service with proper fluid at the dealership.

I have 152,000 miles on mine and still on the OEM belt, water pump, etc, etc. The civic has a 100k zero maintenance schedule. Worry about replacing those items at that point.

 

[fisher83]

My sister in law had an oil change and transmission flush done for $80 last year.... then a transmission replacement for $900. I forewarned her that there was no way the shop could do a good job with quality fluid for that price. The car made it about 200 miles or so after the fluid exchange before it failed. I have no idea what procedure was done or what fluid was used but whatever it was didn't do the job. I'd just buy the fluid and do a drain and fill or take it to the dealer to be serviced properly.

 

[Gito]

What is so difficult about draining and filling? Is there a specific step or procedure that can only be done by the dealer? So the magnet is the filter, go it. How do you know how much to fill and how many quarts is needed to fill to proper level?

Is there a dip stick?

Do you need a pump and is this tranny oil change similar to the tranny oil change that I perform on my 91 Honda Civic Si 5 speed Manual

 

[Artem]

Manual transmission fluid changes are different.

The 8th gen civic is easy to service. Pull the drain plug. Measure the amount that came out and refill with the same amount through the dipstick. Drive around for a day and then check the dipstick to make sure the oil level is proper.

You could go all out and do a radiator line flush to get more of the old fluid out but 2x drain n fills back to back also get the job done and is an easy and an engine oil change.

 

[Gito]

Does the honda dealer use a transmission flush machine? is that why they charge so much. I'm thinking that you could do back to back tranny oil changes and get close to the same effect as using the machine.

 

[Gito]

And I've been warned to only use genuine Honda ATF

 

[sciphi]

Changing ATF on a Honda is easier than changing oil. Undo the drain bolt, drain out the 3 quarts, put in 3 quarts of new ATF, drive around the block, repeat, done for 30k miles.

Our Fit is super-easy to drain/fill. Since switching to Maxlife ATF, I'm not worried about it. Next service I'm planning on is at 75k miles for it.

 

[CharBaby]

Originally Posted By: Gito
And I've been warned to only use genuine Honda ATF


Yes, you can't go wrong with the Honda ATF but, many folks have used other ATF such as Castrol Import Multi Vehicle(A.K.A. Transmax) or Valvoline MaxLife. Use what makes you sleep well at night. I sent you a PM on this subject!

And Sciphi is right! It's an easy job to do!

 

[Carnoobie]

Originally Posted By: sciphi
Changing ATF on a Honda is easier than changing oil. Undo the drain bolt, drain out the 3 quarts, put in 3 quarts of new ATF, drive around the block, repeat, done for 30k miles.

Our Fit is super-easy to drain/fill. Since switching to Maxlife ATF, I'm not worried about it. Next service I'm planning on is at 75k miles for it.


Actually Hondas recommendations from ATF changes are way too long. Each time you drain and fill, it only gets 1/3 out since most of the ATF sits in your torque convetor. A full change is 3-4 drain and fills which gets out about 80%. If this was any other car, once every 30k miles is fine because you drop the pan and get all the ATF out at once. Hondas dont work like that.

1- 34%
2- 51%
3- 66%
4- 79%
5- 89%
6- 94%
7- 98%

Thats right off the Honda chart. Usually when they do a tranny service and want to fully flush it, they do a min. of 4 drain and fills. Honda dealers dont use flush machines cause they dont recommend it! It does more damage than good!

So even if they say change it every 30k miles, that means all, not just a drain and fill cause that would only get you 1/3 replaced. If you drain it once every 30k miles, that means you're taking at least 90-120k miles to replace all of the original fluid, which is way too long.

I know a lot of civic owners who do a drain and fill every year or so and that way you are consstantly keeping fresh fluid in there rather than waiting for it to degrade. Myself I do a drain and fill every 6 months. My ATF is dirt cheap and its easy to do.

Drain and fills are easy to do, hardest thing is getting bolt off if its been on during winters, it can get stubborn tight. I do a drain and fill on my ATF every 6 months, that way I constantly have fresh fluid coming in there and dont allow it to degrade much over time.

 

[Carnoobie]

Originally Posted By: Gito
And I've been warned to only use genuine Honda ATF


Of course Honda is going to say that, just as they will tell you to use Honda only brake fluid and Honda only brake pads.

Theres better ATFs than OEM DW1, which really isnt that great of a fluid. its proven that it doesnt last nearly as long as others like Maxlife.

 

[sciphi]

It's still better to get some of the old fluid out than none at all.

I've changed out all the Z1 in our Fit for Maxlife ATF. It shifts the same hot, cold, summer, or winter. It also greatly reduced a 1-2 shift flare that happened on the initial 1-2 shift when the car was started after sitting overnight.

 

[DuckRyder]

There is a link in this post that you can follow and the Honda service article is linked into the post on another board.

This is a Honda complete fluid exchange or "flush" I've found it to be very effective.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showthreaded&Number=2650320

Honda VS other fluids is about like arguing "Ford vs Chevy", mine has DW1 in it and there is another case waiting to go in the other car.

Originally Posted By: Carnoobie
...Theres better ATFs than OEM DW1, which really isnt that great of a fluid. its proven that it doesnt last nearly as long as others like Maxlife.


Where is this "proven"?

 

[rszappa1]

I have been using Redline D4 in my 07 Accord for years with no problems and better shifts then the old Z1....

 

[Hokiefyd]

Originally Posted By: DuckRyder
Originally Posted By: Carnoobie
...Theres better ATFs than OEM DW1, which really isnt that great of a fluid. its proven that it doesnt last nearly as long as others like Maxlife.


Where is this "proven"?


"Demonstrated" may be a better word. I have switched our 2005 Acura MDX over to MaxLife from the ATF DW-1; I've found MaxLife to exceed the performance of DW-1 in nearly every regard. The biggest problem I was having with DW-1 is what I perceive to be fluid shear. When the fluid got hot, mid-throttle shifts would become very slow...slow enough where I'm thinking the transmission is slipping and clutch damage is occuring. Is it really? I don't know. What I do know is that the performance of DW-1 would degrade over a relatively short time period (say 5,000 miles).

With MaxLife in the transmission, performance is nearly constant across the change interval (which for me is 15,000 miles). I put 6 quarts of MaxLife in about 5,000 miles ago and put 3 more quarts in yesterday. There was no degradation in performance over the last 5,000 miles, and the infusion of another 3 quarts seemed to not change the transmission's behavior at all. This is very different from DW-1...shifting would get sloppy after 5,000 miles and fresh fluid would make it all better...for the next few thousand miles until it started getting sloppy again.

Let me add a disclaimer: my somewhat poor experience with DW-1, and good experience with MaxLife, is limited only to the V-6 transmission in our Acura MDX. I've had MaxLife in the I-4 transmission in our Honda CR-V and didn't like that fluid in that transmission. In fact, that's what the dealer was using, too. It shifted firm, and almost rough. Very firm. DW-1 acted much better in this transmission, and frankly, I'd still be using DW-1 in this transmission if it were cheaper. I'm using Castrol's Transmax IMV in this transmission; I find it to be a perfect analog to DW-1 in terms of shift feel.

I can't comment on DW-1's "behavior consistency" in the I-4 transmission because I didn't run it long enough in the CR-V. I also can't comment on Castrol IMV's "behavior consistency" in this transmission because it's only been in for a few thousand miles.

 

[mattd]

I use redline D4 in my V6 accord.

Also, i dont know if that is the correct year or not, but the 07 civic does not have a belt driven engine. The 1.8 engine is chain driven.

 

[user52165]

To the OP: Yes, that car has a filter - it is external. Located under the cowl above tranny. You have to remove the airbox to get to it ........ then a long stretch and tough access. Maybe easier from below for a shop with a full lift. Honda p/n 25430-PLR-003. Also need 2 banjo bolt crush washers. Probably the same for other year Civics of same version.

Procedure is in the service manual. Someday, maybe soon, those manuals for new cars will not be available.

 

[CharBaby]

Originally Posted By: user52165
To the OP: Yes, that car has a filter - it is external. Located under the cowl above tranny. You have to remove the airbox to get to it ........ then a long stretch and tough access. Maybe easier from below for a shop with a full lift. Honda p/n 25430-PLR-003. Also need 2 banjo bolt crush washers. Probably the same for other year Civics of same version.

Procedure is in the service manual. Someday, maybe soon, those manuals for new cars will not be available.


Good information! I have't had Honda's in a while. I didn't know that Honda was now fitting their auto trannys with external tranny filters. Good to know!

 

[KBK]

I used to use Maxlife ATF in my old civic. At that time, Honda did't have DW-1. It was a lovely Z1. The Z1 changed color quite quick in my Civic so I did the first ATF change about 13K, I continued to use Z1 til 50K and decided to try Maxlife ATF. I have to say that it is great fluid, I continued to use until 98K. There was no slip. The fluid stayed red very long. I had good experience.

Now, I am driving CR-V 08, it came with Z1 but I drained and filled with DW-1 for three times according to Honda. So far, I have to problem. It shifts very well. It is better than Z1 for sure but I am not sure since I won't plan to use Maxlife in my V