2012 Battery Notes for the Volvofolk

[Volvohead]

The R's original battery is now 7+ years old. As a precaution, we're retiring it before this winter - keeping it as a desulphated/tendered emergency spare.

For replacement, there are options. We're going dealer, as I have some "loyalty cash" to burn, so the final price will be cheaper than anywhere else.

Virtually all VCNA P2s come factory fitted with the standard size Volvo batt. -- an H6 600cca/70ah.

The standard H6 is also what runs on the earlier engine compartment mounted 850/V70 models.

At your friendly dealer (or parts store), they will almost always hand you the standard replacement H6 for any later Volvo. (Volvo part no 30772221). It's quick, easy and fits almost all of them.

A few years ago, you could get a Varta made in France standard Volvo batt. They really last - as the one in our 855 is now going strong on 8+ years, and the OE one out of the R is still testing good, too.

But all the new Volvo-branded standard batts in the US are now Johnson Controls made in Mexico and Interstate-distributed to Volvo -- even though the Volvo label says "made in Germany". Maybe the label is made in Germany. The Volvo standard batt is pretty much the same Interstate you can buy at the auto parts store for $30 less.

But most of the trunk-mounted P2s can also accommodate the HD H8 800cca/90ah option (usually reserved for Euro-market diesels). The battery tray has the extra length and hold down hole for it. Not all US dealers know and/or will tell you that.

If you want the bigger H8 in a genuine Volvo batt, ask for Part no. 30772231. This is NOT a Johnson/Interstate model, it is a German made Varta. It is also about $50 more than the standard batt.

I suspect that the HD Volvo is still coming from across the pond because the Diesels it runs are there and not here.

Interstate DOES make an exact-fit H8 equivalent for those who don't want to pay $$ for the sauerkraut-filled Volvo one.

Ask for the Volvo HD or H8, and the dealer will look at you funny and tell you all they have is the standard size. Give them the above part no and insist on it if you want one. After 5 minutes of chit-chat in the back, they'll finally put one on the counter.

But it fits fine in most P2s and will give extra capacity for those that want or need it. Just one more option.

As always, double check your particular tray first. Also be sure if you deviate size and/or brand that the vent hose will reach the new one.

Happy motoring all.

 

[brianl703]

In the USA, Johnson Controls actually makes/distributes two (if not three) batteries in the H6 size.

There is the old standard group 91/48 that they've had for years, and now they make/distribute a battery usually designated as an H6 which looks identical to a Varta battery, down to the single fold-down handle in the center. I looked one over and did not see any indication of where it was made. This battery is different from the picture of the MTP-48-H6 on Interstate's website.

I've seen this new H6 battery design at both Wal-Mart and Autozone.

Johnson Controls, by the way, owns Varta.

 

[Volvohead]

Johnson Controls makes most of the aftermarket batteries marketed in the US. Many buy them as Interstates, but the relabeling is fairly pervasive at this point.

Now where JC makes them is another story.

Unless it's molded into the case, the label of origin is fairly useless.

Deka/East Penn used to make their own right here in PA, but I haven't bought one of theirs in a few years to confirm if they still do. Dekas are still US made though, and they make both an H6 and H8.

If I weren't buying a Volvo at a steep discount, I'd buy a Deka.

The usual Volvo-branded battery, regardless of who is making it, has dual carry handles. Same with MB and a few other euro brands. A strap or single handle is typically an aftermarket cost-cutting feature.

Still, an H6 is not an H8. More importantly, the H8 usually fits here, despite what a partsman says.

Don't need the features or the price of an Optima or Odyssey, which is the other upgrade path.

 

[brianl703]

The Johnson Controls H6 battery I've seen looks like this:

So does the H8 and the H5, for that matter. They all have the plastic covers over both terminals like the picture above, with that same single fold-down handle.

Quote:

Unless it's molded into the case, the label of origin is fairly useless.


Even then, where the battery case is made and where final assembly takes place may not be the same country.

 

[S_Walmer]

Good info, I will most likely replace my C30 battery in a couple years with an optima or other AGM battery when the time comes. I have a optima yellow top in my hyundai and love it. Does anyone know if an optima battery will fit a C30 without doing some modifications? I didn't get time to do measurements of both batteries yet. Thanks in advance!

 

[brianl703]

Deka makes an AGM battery that will fit with no modifications.

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: Volvohead
Johnson Controls makes most of the aftermarket batteries marketed in the US. Many buy them as Interstates, but the relabeling is fairly pervasive at this point.

Now where JC makes them is another story.

Unless it's molded into the case, the label of origin is fairly useless.

Deka/East Penn used to make their own right here in PA, but I haven't bought one of theirs in a few years to confirm if they still do. Dekas are still US made though, and they make both an H6 and H8.

If I weren't buying a Volvo at a steep discount, I'd buy a Deka.

The usual Volvo-branded battery, regardless of who is making it, has dual carry handles. Same with MB and a few other euro brands. A strap or single handle is typically an aftermarket cost-cutting feature.

Still, an H6 is not an H8. More importantly, the H8 usually fits here, despite what a partsman says.

Don't need the features or the price of an Optima or Odyssey, which is the other upgrade path.


For trunk mount apps, I prefer an AGM battery, and Deka makes a Grp 49 VRLA AGM that fits the H8 spot in my 91 BMW (which is set up the same way with intercahangabel mount points for an H6 or H8.

 

[Volvohead]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2


For trunk mount apps, I prefer an AGM battery, and Deka makes a Grp 49 VRLA AGM that fits the H8 spot in my 91 BMW (which is set up the same way with intercahangabel mount points for an H6 or H8.


That Deka certainly would have been on our short list. I've had great luck with Dekas over the years, and they're a home town outfit.

But with a sauerkraut-juiced Volvo H8 for $95 after discounts . . . the Deka must wait until next time.

 

[JHZR2]

Certainly understand! What was its msrp?

 

[S_Walmer]

Originally Posted By: brianl703
Deka makes an AGM battery that will fit with no modifications.
Thanks Brian, I have time to weigh my options. I will look into the Deka.

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted By: Volvohead
Johnson Controls makes most of the aftermarket batteries marketed in the US. Many buy them as Interstates, but the relabeling is fairly pervasive at this point.

Now where JC makes them is another story.

Unless it's molded into the case, the label of origin is fairly useless.

Deka/East Penn used to make their own right here in PA, but I haven't bought one of theirs in a few years to confirm if they still do. Dekas are still US made though, and they make both an H6 and H8.

If I weren't buying a Volvo at a steep discount, I'd buy a Deka.

The usual Volvo-branded battery, regardless of who is making it, has dual carry handles. Same with MB and a few other euro brands. A strap or single handle is typically an aftermarket cost-cutting feature.

Still, an H6 is not an H8. More importantly, the H8 usually fits here, despite what a partsman says.

Don't need the features or the price of an Optima or Odyssey, which is the other upgrade path.


JCI makes about 50% of the batteries in the USA so its easy to get a Exide POS.

 

[Volvohead]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Certainly understand! What was its msrp?


I was away on vacation . . . just got back.

MSRP was $180.

 

[sleddriver]

Timely post...your batteries sure last longer than mine. Not near as hot though where you are as here in Tx.

I've been using InterState for more than a decade since that's what my mechanic sells, but I'm beginning to doubt them. They don't seem to last more than 3-4 years.

Yesterday, I'd been running a few errands. Pulled in the grocery, turned off the engine but left the radio & A/C fan blowing while I made up a list. Then the radio just quit! When I left the car, the remote door locks didn't work. I left it, went shopping, tried again: no joy. Got a jump, came home and checked each cell with a hygrometer. Two cells floated 3, the rest only 1.

I peered into each cell with a bright light and saw something odd. The main bar/buss the plates connect to on three of the cells looks new. However, on the remaining three, it looks moderately corroded.

So I put on the charger, set it for 6 amps, meter indicated a 4A draw, left it overnight and most of today and just turned it off..21 hrs later, to let it equalize before I check the gravity. The battery is slowly bubbling, the charger is barely warm and the meter shows current draw at 1A.

The sled's on its second alternator, which I installed about 5-6yrs ago. Had my indy check it with his load tester and DC current clamp meter. Said it was fine. He also tested the last Interstate battery with an electronic tester, which indicated it was good. But it would only float a couple of balls. He replaced it with this one in Sept 2009. Three years almost.

The battery is an Interstate MegaTron II, 75mo, MT-47 590cca/740ca, made in mexico.

I've noticed periodically the starter spinning slower-than-usual. So I'd put on the charger that evening and let it charge all night. The next day it would spin like usual. I've done this more than a few times.

I thought I might have a parasitic drain, so I put a DC ammeter in-line, first with nothing on, then started turning on the radio, the blower fan, opening doors, etc. in various combinations. I don't have the numbers at hand, but didn't notice anything excessive.

Perhaps batteries 'just aren't made like they used to be'? Unfortunately, I don't have a DC clamp ammeter to check the alternator.

This would happen late Fri at the beginning of Labor Day weekend! I'll be keeping my portable power pack in the car though. . . .

Could be a battery issue or alternator issue or batt/alt issue. It would be interesting to see the alt current waveform on my oscilloscope, but I don't have a shunt. A bad regulator/diode could also be at fault. Having replaced the alt once, I tried to disassemble it to get to the voltage regulator, but no joy.

What brand will go the distance in HOT Tx?

 

[sleddriver]

I think I'll post my initial post and new measurements into a new thread.

 

[sleddriver]

Timely post re: 2012 Battery Notes for the Volvofolk

Your batteries sure last longer than mine. Not near as hot though where you are as here in Tx.

I've been using InterState for more than a decade since that's what my mechanic sells, but I'm beginning to doubt them. They don't seem to last more than 3-4 years.

Yesterday, I'd been running a few errands. Pulled in the grocery, turned off the engine but left the radio & A/C fan blowing while I made up a list. Then the radio just quit! When I left the car, the remote door locks didn't work. I left it, went shopping, tried again: no joy. Got a jump, came home and checked each cell with a hygrometer. Two cells floated 3, the rest only 1.

I peered into each cell with a bright light and saw something odd. The main bar/buss the plates connect to on three of the cells looks new. However, on the remaining three, it looks moderately corroded.

So I put on the charger, set it for 6 amps, meter indicated a 4A draw, left it overnight and most of today and just turned it off..21 hrs later, to let it equalize before I check the gravity. The battery is slowly bubbling, the charger is barely warm and the meter shows current draw at 1A.

The sled's on its second alternator, which I installed about 5-6yrs ago. Had my indy check it with his load tester and DC current clamp meter. Said it was fine. He also tested the last Interstate battery with an electronic tester, which indicated it was good. But it would only float a couple of balls. He replaced it with this one in Sept 2009. Three years almost.

The battery is an Interstate MegaTron II, 75mo, MT-47 590cca/740ca, made in mexico.

I've noticed periodically the starter spinning slower-than-usual. So I'd put on the charger that evening and let it charge all night. The next day it would spin like usual. I've done this more than a few times.

I thought I might have a parasitic drain, so I put a DC ammeter in-line, first with nothing on, then started turning on the radio, the blower fan, opening doors, etc. in various combinations. I don't have the numbers at hand, but didn't notice anything excessive.

Perhaps batteries 'just aren't made like they used to be'? Perhaps the extreme heatwave we had in Tx last Summer took a few years off it's life? Unfortunately, I don't have a DC clamp ammeter to check the alternator.

This would happen late Fri at the beginning of Labor Day weekend! I'll be keeping my portable power pack in the car though. . . .

Could be a battery issue or alternator issue or batt/alt issue. It would be interesting to see the alt current waveform on my oscilloscope, but I don't have a shunt. A bad regulator/diode could also be at fault. Having replaced the alt once, I tried to disassemble it to get to the voltage regulator, but no joy.

What brand will go the distance in HOT Tx?

 

[sleddriver]

Just finished taking some measurements after allowing the battery to rest 3 hrs. after the long charge (see above post).

No load batt. V: 13.17v.
Turn on parking & interior lights: 12.93v. After one minute, drops to 12.72v. After 5 min: V=12.74v

Acc key on, a/c blower & radio: v=12.45v. After 4 min, it drops to 12.49; after 5 min. it reads 12.48v.

Add low-beams to above, v now 12.29v. After 5 min, v=12.23. After 10 min, v=12.13v.

Turn all off, v rises to 12.64v. After 5min, v=12.78v

Start engine: v=13.21v. After 2 min v=13.22v.

Increase rpms to 2000; v=13.24.
Back to idle (~950rpm); v=13.17.After 5min at idle: v=13.2v.

With engine running, turn on low-beams, a/c blower & radio. v=12.76v. Increase rpms to 2000; v now 12.78v. Wait for two min. v now at 12.84v

Turn off engine; v now 12.76. After 15min, v=12.85.

Not sure how much current was being fed into the battery from the alternator, but shouldn't there be around 14.7v at the battery terminals (instead of 13.2v) with the engine on?

Unfortunately I forgot to check the gravity after allowing it to rest for 3 hours before doing these tests. I'll do it tomorrow morning.