5W-20 for a 1996 Subaru Legacy Outback 2.5?

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I am considering a 1996 Subaru Outback (Legacy not Impreza) as winter car. Maybe a 1997, but I believe they changed in 1998. Regular 2.5 H6, not the H6s. Was considering a 5W-20 for it, maybe something from Walmart. Would this be ok, and any suggestions? Assume higher mileage example, all normal maintenances and average if not very good condition. Thanks
 
Use a 5w-30 of some sort.

Edit: the easiest way to tell the difference is that the 95/96 outbacks did not have a hood scoop, and the 97-onward ones did.
 
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If the car has an oil pressure gauge (unlikely) then you would know how much viscosity reserve you already have on the spec' 5W-30 under the conditions which you operate the car.
If the oil pressure is well above the minimum optimum spec' for the engine when the oil is as hot as it ever gets in the winter (likely so) then yes you could use a 0W/5W-20 oil.

So with out a gauge you don't know unless you know someone with the same car who has one.
That said, if you're doing mostly short trips of under 30 minutes in duration then it is very unlikely the oil is getting fully up to temp' (especially if the car is not equipped with an oil/coolant heat exchanger) and you could benefit from a 20wt oil.

If all of this is too daunting, then just run PP 5W-30; it's the lightest OTC 30wt oil available.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
If the car has an oil pressure gauge (unlikely) then you would know how much viscosity reserve you already have on the spec' 5W-30 under the conditions which you operate the car.
If the oil pressure is well above the minimum optimum spec' for the engine when the oil is as hot as it ever gets in the winter (likely so) then yes you could use a 0W/5W-20 oil.

So with out a gauge you don't know unless you know someone with the same car who has one.
That said, if you're doing mostly short trips of under 30 minutes in duration then it is very unlikely the oil is getting fully up to temp' (especially if the car is not equipped with an oil/coolant heat exchanger) and you could benefit from a 20wt oil.

If all of this is too daunting, then just run PP 5W-30; it's the lightest OTC 30wt oil available.


This was an extremely informative post. And thank you XStang!

What you said made sense. The next question I have is this theme of not wanting to put an xW-20 motor oil in a 90s (or even 80s) manufactured car. Is there any type of reason for this?
 
Originally Posted By: GearheadTool
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
If the car has an oil pressure gauge (unlikely) then you would know how much viscosity reserve you already have on the spec' 5W-30 under the conditions which you operate the car.
If the oil pressure is well above the minimum optimum spec' for the engine when the oil is as hot as it ever gets in the winter (likely so) then yes you could use a 0W/5W-20 oil.

So with out a gauge you don't know unless you know someone with the same car who has one.
That said, if you're doing mostly short trips of under 30 minutes in duration then it is very unlikely the oil is getting fully up to temp' (especially if the car is not equipped with an oil/coolant heat exchanger) and you could benefit from a 20wt oil.

If all of this is too daunting, then just run PP 5W-30; it's the lightest OTC 30wt oil available.


This was an extremely informative post. And thank you XStang!

What you said made sense. The next question I have is this theme of not wanting to put an xW-20 motor oil in a 90s (or even 80s) manufactured car. Is there any type of reason for this?


I used M1 5-20 in engines in the 70s calling for 30-40wt oils. I even use 20wt HD Valvoline in the late 60s and early 70s. No harm.
 
Originally Posted By: Bottom_Feeder
Royal Purple 15W-40. Perfect application.


For a winter car in Boston?

I'd just use a 5W-30 and call it a day. If the car leaks or weeps oil, use a good high mileage like MaxLife or Defy...
 
Originally Posted By: Nickdfresh
Originally Posted By: Bottom_Feeder
Royal Purple 15W-40. Perfect application.


For a winter car in Boston?

I'd just use a 5W-30 and call it a day. If the car leaks or weeps oil, use a good high mileage like MaxLife or Defy...


Lol at Bottom Feeder. He is referencing my inquiry about the motor oil featured prominently in the Lincoln Continental in Hit and Run. Here is that http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2723224#Post2723224

I was considering Royal Purple 5W-20 since I can get it from Advance, though I would like to use the thinest oil I safely can. PP 5W-30 suggestion is tempting. Maybe something from off the shelf at Walmart.

EDIT tig what would you think of using Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0W-20 if not 0W-30 for the Subaru? Isnt the 20 there getting thin for the engine?
 
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Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: GearheadTool
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
If the car has an oil pressure gauge (unlikely) then you would know how much viscosity reserve you already have on the spec' 5W-30 under the conditions which you operate the car.
If the oil pressure is well above the minimum optimum spec' for the engine when the oil is as hot as it ever gets in the winter (likely so) then yes you could use a 0W/5W-20 oil.

So with out a gauge you don't know unless you know someone with the same car who has one.
That said, if you're doing mostly short trips of under 30 minutes in duration then it is very unlikely the oil is getting fully up to temp' (especially if the car is not equipped with an oil/coolant heat exchanger) and you could benefit from a 20wt oil.

If all of this is too daunting, then just run PP 5W-30; it's the lightest OTC 30wt oil available.


This was an extremely informative post. And thank you XStang!

What you said made sense. The next question I have is this theme of not wanting to put an xW-20 motor oil in a 90s (or even 80s) manufactured car. Is there any type of reason for this?


I used M1 5-20 in engines in the 70s calling for 30-40wt oils. I even use 20wt HD Valvoline in the late 60s and early 70s. No harm.

Right the principals remain the same regardless of the vehicles vintage.
As a side note, a modern 0W/5W-20 oil will likely provide as much hot operational viscosity as a typical 5W-30 dino from the mid to early 90's at the end of a normal OCI. Just something else to remember.
 
To piggy back on Caterham's post, many Subie flat four UOAs show low wear, with the oil sheared down to a twenty grade.
It begs the question why not use a stout, shear stable twenty to begin with?
 
Originally Posted By: GearheadTool
Lol at Bottom Feeder. He is referencing my inquiry about the motor oil featured prominently in the Lincoln Continental in Hit and Run. Here is that http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2723224#Post2723224

Vjz7I.jpg
 
It calls for 5W30, that's what I'd use. If you're really concerned about cold winter starts use 0W30. You can also get an oil pan heater, real easy to install, or a block heater, not as easy to install.
 
Any conventional or blend 5W-30 of your choice for 5-7.5k mile intervals, guided by uoa. No need for synthetic in a non-turbo Subaru, IMO, unless you extend your intervals beyond 7,500 miles.

-Dennis
 
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Joking aside, 5w-20 is too thin for a Subaru of that age. Some people even think the recommended 5w-30 is too thin regardless of outside temps. Remember, when the engine is at operating temperature, it doesn't care what the outside temp is. Running at 180 degrees is the same when it's 100 outside or if it's only 15. With that said, on a cold-weather, short-trip Subaru, you may benefit from a 0w-30. Personally, I'd use a cheap synthetic for better cold start protection regardless of what weight you go with. And if you're a Wal-Mart shopper, SuperTech syn would be just fine for a car of that vintage. No need to get fancy.

That said, after experimenting with a few different weights, I've come back to using the recommended 5w-30 in my 2001 2.5 Impreza year round (it 'likes' Valvoline SynPower best). For a daily driver, there's no real need to deviate from that.

Make sure the timing belt was done somewhat recently. Idler bearings and water pump, also. The head gaskets and valve covers are also known leakers.
 
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
To piggy back on Caterham's post, many Subie flat four UOAs show low wear, with the oil sheared down to a twenty grade.
It begs the question why not use a stout, shear stable twenty to begin with?



Such as Castrol GTX! 5W-20
 
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SubLGT thanks for digging up those old posts.
The '01 Legacy running the Havoline 5W-20 through the summer is pretty impressive.
I should point out that automatic cars can get by with less viscosity reserves since shock loads to an engine are not as harsh as with a manual car driven harshly.
 
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