Any members have any experience with LubriMoly Motor Oil Saver ? It has seal swellers and conditioners (I think like High Mileage Oils). I would like to add it to Mobil1 0W-40 or German Castrol (or even Lubro Moly Synthetic 5W-40). Any one have any concerns or suggestions. As always, thanks for any help. I have two BMWs (2002 325it and 1993 318i both with over 100,000 miles).
Lubri Moly Motor Oil Saver Added to Mobil1
- Thread starter KevinV
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I would use Mobil 1 High Mileage that already has that.
The Oil Saver is really thick stuff.
If you want to use it I would be hesitant to add it to a 40 weight oil, as you would probably end up with a 50 grade.
I know some German cars call for a 50 grade, but I'd still be hesitant.
In your situation I too would look into a 40 weight high mileage oil. I have heard a lot of good things about both Mobile 1 10w40 High Mileage, and Maxlife in the 10w40 flavor.
You would also save a few bucks. Synthetic High Mileage oils will be cheaper than a Synthetic + Motor Oil Saver. I've been shopping around as making a High Mileage oil saves nothing over just buying one.
That being said. If you have a bunch of 5w30 or 10w30 on hand already and you want to make it a 15w40 high mileage oil. Then go right ahead.
That's what I do.
I have some leaks in my daily driver that I'm not in a position to fix right now, and a 40 weight High Mileage oil just about stops the leak.
Right now I have 4.5 quarts of Chevron 10w30 and 1 pint of Schaeffers #132, which is similar to the Motor Oil Saver.
Once I run my stash down I'm thinking that I will try to stock up on High Mileage oils.
If you want to use it I would be hesitant to add it to a 40 weight oil, as you would probably end up with a 50 grade.
I know some German cars call for a 50 grade, but I'd still be hesitant.
In your situation I too would look into a 40 weight high mileage oil. I have heard a lot of good things about both Mobile 1 10w40 High Mileage, and Maxlife in the 10w40 flavor.
You would also save a few bucks. Synthetic High Mileage oils will be cheaper than a Synthetic + Motor Oil Saver. I've been shopping around as making a High Mileage oil saves nothing over just buying one.
That being said. If you have a bunch of 5w30 or 10w30 on hand already and you want to make it a 15w40 high mileage oil. Then go right ahead.
That's what I do.
I have some leaks in my daily driver that I'm not in a position to fix right now, and a 40 weight High Mileage oil just about stops the leak.
Right now I have 4.5 quarts of Chevron 10w30 and 1 pint of Schaeffers #132, which is similar to the Motor Oil Saver.
Once I run my stash down I'm thinking that I will try to stock up on High Mileage oils.
You haven't said why you want to add the very heavy Lubri Moly Oil Saver? You've aluded to some oil leaks but could you be more specific?
100,000 miles is not a lot of mileage, I have double that on my older Bimmer and it doesn't leak a drop or consume an excessive amount of oil.
I wouldn't want to run anything thicker than GC or M1 0W-40 in your '93 318i and your '02 325i will run just fine on any light 5W-30 syn' with OCIs kept under 10,000 miles.
If you already have the Lubri Moly MOS and want to use it, it will increase the viscosity at least one full grade so adding to GC or M1 0W-40 is not a good plan.
100,000 miles is not a lot of mileage, I have double that on my older Bimmer and it doesn't leak a drop or consume an excessive amount of oil.
I wouldn't want to run anything thicker than GC or M1 0W-40 in your '93 318i and your '02 325i will run just fine on any light 5W-30 syn' with OCIs kept under 10,000 miles.
If you already have the Lubri Moly MOS and want to use it, it will increase the viscosity at least one full grade so adding to GC or M1 0W-40 is not a good plan.
Hi Caterham,
Hope you're enjoying the weekend.
My 93 3181 has done 300,000 miles of service and I wanted to protect the timing chain and seals when switching from Max Life (Semisynthetic) to a high quality synthetic like Mobil 1 or Castrol (I have Royal Purple 10W-40 now in it-the old formula with Synerlic- the first time ever it had a synthetic). In the Fall and WinterI want to be sure the seals are ok. It doesn't leak now.
My 2002 325 has 102,000 and I feel it's time to protect the seals. It has had German Castrol since I got it at 60000 miles. It runs great, just had a new PCV system put in and doesn't leak.
In Indiana I was concerned a Mobil 1 HM 10W-40 would be too heavy for the zero degree days and Mobil1 HM 5W-30 would not be stout enough for the car.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Hope you're enjoying the weekend.
My 93 3181 has done 300,000 miles of service and I wanted to protect the timing chain and seals when switching from Max Life (Semisynthetic) to a high quality synthetic like Mobil 1 or Castrol (I have Royal Purple 10W-40 now in it-the old formula with Synerlic- the first time ever it had a synthetic). In the Fall and WinterI want to be sure the seals are ok. It doesn't leak now.
My 2002 325 has 102,000 and I feel it's time to protect the seals. It has had German Castrol since I got it at 60000 miles. It runs great, just had a new PCV system put in and doesn't leak.
In Indiana I was concerned a Mobil 1 HM 10W-40 would be too heavy for the zero degree days and Mobil1 HM 5W-30 would not be stout enough for the car.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Originally Posted By: KevinV
In Indiana I was concerned a Mobil 1 HM 10W-40 would be too heavy for the zero degree days and Mobil1 HM 5W-30 would not be stout enough for the car.
What does the manual say? You and I might both agree that the 10w-40 isn't optimal around 0 F. The manual certainly may allow it. My Audi allowed some rather thick stuff in the winter that I wouldn't likely consider in a North American car.
Another alternative would be use a 5w-30 or thinner 0w-30 (i.e. not GC) and use up the oil saver with that. You won't jump up excessively in viscosity, then.
In Indiana I was concerned a Mobil 1 HM 10W-40 would be too heavy for the zero degree days and Mobil1 HM 5W-30 would not be stout enough for the car.
What does the manual say? You and I might both agree that the 10w-40 isn't optimal around 0 F. The manual certainly may allow it. My Audi allowed some rather thick stuff in the winter that I wouldn't likely consider in a North American car.
Another alternative would be use a 5w-30 or thinner 0w-30 (i.e. not GC) and use up the oil saver with that. You won't jump up excessively in viscosity, then.
Originally Posted By: KevinV
My 93 3181 has done 300,000 miles of service and I wanted to protect the timing chain and seals. In the Fall and WinterI want to be sure the seals are ok. It doesn't leak now.
My 2002 325 has 102,000 and I feel it's time to protect the seals.
Thanks for the exrta info.
It's good to hear your 318i is running well and dry with 300,000 miles on the clock.
I'm not one for fixing problems that don't exist. Adding a seal swell agent will not protect your engine's seals, in fact if they are not leaking, all the seal swell will do is potentially shorten the life of the seals by increasing seal wear.
Consequently I would not use a HM oil in either car.
I think GC or M1 0W-40 would be a good choice for the 318i.
For the 325i you could continue using GC or M1 0W-40 although me both are actually heavier than necessary.
My 93 3181 has done 300,000 miles of service and I wanted to protect the timing chain and seals. In the Fall and WinterI want to be sure the seals are ok. It doesn't leak now.
My 2002 325 has 102,000 and I feel it's time to protect the seals.
Thanks for the exrta info.
It's good to hear your 318i is running well and dry with 300,000 miles on the clock.
I'm not one for fixing problems that don't exist. Adding a seal swell agent will not protect your engine's seals, in fact if they are not leaking, all the seal swell will do is potentially shorten the life of the seals by increasing seal wear.
Consequently I would not use a HM oil in either car.
I think GC or M1 0W-40 would be a good choice for the 318i.
For the 325i you could continue using GC or M1 0W-40 although me both are actually heavier than necessary.
I contacted Lubro Moly about the Oil Saver also being a viscosity thickner. They told me in fact it is not. They have another product for that.I will try to find email and post it.
Originally Posted By: Topo
I contacted Lubro Moly about the Oil Saver also being a viscosity thickner. They told me in fact it is not. They have another product for that.I will try to find email and post it.
If the stuff is as thick as honey in the bottle then it will increase the oil's viscosity. If it's not, then it won't.
I contacted Lubro Moly about the Oil Saver also being a viscosity thickner. They told me in fact it is not. They have another product for that.I will try to find email and post it.
If the stuff is as thick as honey in the bottle then it will increase the oil's viscosity. If it's not, then it won't.
Actually, honey is a thin viscosity when compared to this stuff!
I agree it's thick. But the wrote back to me in broken English, maybe they got confused and thought I was talking about Mos2. It's pretty thick. They just told me it won't raise you up a grade in viscosity and they have some other product that can do that. But I have it in my Intrepid right now, and in few thousand miles I will do a U.O.A. on it, just to see if viscosity changed. [censored] I had to sit the can upside down and walk away because it was so slow moving.
Originally Posted By: Topo
But I have it in my Intrepid right now, and in few thousand miles I will do a U.O.A. on it, just to see if viscosity changed. [censored] I had to sit the can upside down and walk away because it was so slow moving.
Thanks for that.
If you don't mind, when you do post the UOA, PM it to me as I'd very much like to see it.
But I have it in my Intrepid right now, and in few thousand miles I will do a U.O.A. on it, just to see if viscosity changed. [censored] I had to sit the can upside down and walk away because it was so slow moving.
Thanks for that.
If you don't mind, when you do post the UOA, PM it to me as I'd very much like to see it.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: Topo
But I have it in my Intrepid right now, and in few thousand miles I will do a U.O.A. on it, just to see if viscosity changed. [censored] I had to sit the can upside down and walk away because it was so slow moving.
Thanks for that.
If you don't mind, when you do post the UOA, PM it to me as I'd very much like to see it.
Will do!
Originally Posted By: Topo
But I have it in my Intrepid right now, and in few thousand miles I will do a U.O.A. on it, just to see if viscosity changed. [censored] I had to sit the can upside down and walk away because it was so slow moving.
Thanks for that.
If you don't mind, when you do post the UOA, PM it to me as I'd very much like to see it.
Will do!
At 300k and 20 odd years on the BMW, you are lucky that there are no seal leaks.
Using a high mileage oil or quality seal additive is not a bad idea.
I think it is good to address an issue before it is too late.
A bit of softening/swelling is good, not bad, at this point.
Using a high mileage oil or quality seal additive is not a bad idea.
I think it is good to address an issue before it is too late.
A bit of softening/swelling is good, not bad, at this point.
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Using a high mileage oil or quality seal additive is not a bad idea.
I think it is good to address an issue before it is too late.
The idea that it can be "too late" implies that the seal(s) have harded to the point that they won't respond to a swelling agent.
That may be a possibility although not in my experience with older engines.
Technically to get maximum life out of an oil seal I believe it's best to wait until there are at least signs of some oil seepage. This will minimize the rate of seal wear that swelling agents can cause.
At it root, it a difference in philosophy.
If you start using a swelling agent before a leak is present must you continue? If you stop and a leak appears did the swelling agent cause it?
If you start using a swelling agent and a leak appears at some later date, what options do you now have short of a more aggressive dose of a seal swell agent?
Using a high mileage oil or quality seal additive is not a bad idea.
I think it is good to address an issue before it is too late.
The idea that it can be "too late" implies that the seal(s) have harded to the point that they won't respond to a swelling agent.
That may be a possibility although not in my experience with older engines.
Technically to get maximum life out of an oil seal I believe it's best to wait until there are at least signs of some oil seepage. This will minimize the rate of seal wear that swelling agents can cause.
At it root, it a difference in philosophy.
If you start using a swelling agent before a leak is present must you continue? If you stop and a leak appears did the swelling agent cause it?
If you start using a swelling agent and a leak appears at some later date, what options do you now have short of a more aggressive dose of a seal swell agent?
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