VIrgin Autopsy- Fram XG2 Ultra

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Originally Posted By: Jim Allen
Originally Posted By: RF Overlord
Jim, not to start an argument or to hijack this thread (thanks for the disassemble and pics, BTW), but I have to ask: if the bypass valve location is not important, why then does Ford continue to specify thread-end when it's likely more expensive to manufacture?


Good question. No hijack, since I mentioned it. The only immediate answer I can offer is,"That's the way they want it. That's the way they've done it for the past 40 years."

In and of itself, Ford wanting it that way doesn't mean it's the best thing. Among the three filter engineers I've spoken with, it's a non-issue. None would give me any insight as to why Ford specs this feature. It's been that way a very long time over a wide variety of engine types. Being a "Ford guy" more or less, I once gave this feature a good deal of weight in my filter evaluations but I've been moving away from it the past few years because my research shows it's a non-critical choice for the most part... and my recent discussions have cemented it. I'm open to being convinced otherwise, but I have banished the specter of "washed" media as a worthwhile reason. That's the only reason that ever comes up. Would like to hear a better one... if it exists.



If I REALLY stretch my imagination, I can come up with one and only one scenario where base-end bypass really might make a difference.

Conditions:
1) Base-up filter mounting with dome-end bypass
2) Surface-loading media (cellulse or equivalent)
3) some dirt "sloughs" off media after engine shut-down
4) Sloughed dirt pools in the dome-end
5) Start engine cold and immediately rev over 3000 RPM

IF that event kicks the filter into bypass before the "sloughed" dirt can swirl up and stick back onto the filter, then I can see some excess dirt getting into the engine.

But are 5 randomly flipped dimes REALLY going to stand on edge in a row often enough to make me lose sleep? Nah.
 
In the Fram Proving Grounds video, they call it "glass reinforced nylon"rated for 450F and also that they test it for a million cycles in 275F oil. I saw the machine when I visited there. I guess it's the same valve they use in all the filters, so it's definitely out there for field testing.
 
Interesting. As long as I can get P1s for $4-5 Ill probably keep using them. Most of the OCIs for me are less than 5k and none are more than 8k.
But, if I was going longer I would be tempted.
 
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How does the efficiency rating compare to the Bosch Distance Plus filters? I'm having trouble finding that information anywhere...
 
Originally Posted By: Colt45ws
Interesting. As long as I can get P1s for $4-5 Ill probably keep using them. Most of the OCIs for me are less than 5k and none are more than 8k.
But, if I was going longer I would be tempted.


Hmm.... last time I looked the XG8A was around $9 and the PL30001 was around $7. So check what the XG8A in the size you'd use actually costs, as P1's in your size are obviously cheaper than in mine.
 
Originally Posted By: JZiggy
How does the efficiency rating compare to the Bosch Distance Plus filters? I'm having trouble finding that information anywhere...


All the info I have is that the D+ has the same efficiency as the Ultra... 99% @ 20 um and the P-1 and the M-1. The Amsoil is a little better... 99% @ 15um IIRC. We're talking in this size equivalent. It's likely the same in others but I don't know for sure.


















5
 
69 years old and I had to come here today to discover I am intellectualy dishonest.
You take yourself way too seriously.It was an honest comment on my opinion of what I viewed,nothing more,nothing less.
Personal comments such as yours distract from this forum being as was intended to be IMHO.
 
I wonder how well the Fram Ultra flows at high RPM's (7000 RPM's) with the holes on the center tube so small unlike the Purolator center tube holes on their filters ?

I would not worry about efficiency ratings as there are engines getting 3-400K miles on basic oil filters long before high end oil filters came out such as (Amsoil, Mobil 1, PureOne, Fram Ultra, Royal Purple, Bosch,....etc). I would not worry about the BPV on the Fram Ultra.

I do agree PureOnes are a great deal and can be bought for as little as $3 each with the Purolator rebate combined with the AAP 40% discount code.
 
Originally Posted By: mgm13
69 years old and I had to come here today to discover I am intellectualy dishonest.
You take yourself way too seriously.It was an honest comment on my opinion of what I viewed,nothing more,nothing less.
Personal comments such as yours distract from this forum being as was intended to be IMHO.


Sorry you took it that way. I mentioned you in the paragraph above by name. The second comment was general and that's why it was separated.
 
Jim, thanks for your response to my bypass valve location question. Indeed, thanks for all your participation here. In my book, you rank right up there with the late great Gary Allen.
grin2.gif
(no relation I hope)

I guess I place too much emphasis on the fact that Ford continues to specify a thread-end BPV for most of their filters. It may indeed be a non-issue for 99% of users, but I suppose if I need a reason to believe Motorcraft filters are superior because of it, then I'll just go with that until they stop making them that way.
05.gif
 
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Originally Posted By: Colt45ws
Interesting. As long as I can get P1s for $4-5 Ill probably keep using them. Most of the OCIs for me are less than 5k and none are more than 8k.
But, if I was going longer I would be tempted.


Hmm.... last time I looked the XG8A was around $9 and the PL30001 was around $7. So check what the XG8A in the size you'd use actually costs, as P1's in your size are obviously cheaper than in mine.

I bulk them when there is a deal. Im running lower than I thought so I may have to supplement. Right now I have an older EAO and Ill probably run it twice.. Maybe I will throw an Ultra on my car and run it twice too for S&G.
 
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Jim,
Wondering if you noticed whether the Ultra is 2 ply synthetic media + a screen like the Xtended Guard. Looks like its one ply of thick synthetic media + screen?

Ultra media
UltraMedia.jpg



Xtended Guard media

100_3930.jpg
 
Originally Posted By: RF Overlord
Jim, thanks for your response to my bypass valve location question. Indeed, thanks for all your participation here. In my book, you rank right up there with the late great Gary Allen.
grin2.gif
(no relation I hope)

I guess I place too much emphasis on the fact that Ford continues to specify a thread-end BPV for most of their filters. It may indeed be a non-issue for 99% of users, but I suppose if I need a reason to believe Motorcraft filters are superior because of it, then I'll just go with that until they stop making them that way.
05.gif



I barely have a foot on the ballfield compared to Gary Allan (note difference in last name spelling). Plus, mgm13 pointed out that I don't have a halo after all ( : < ). But thanks! I've just received some training in this area and I'm brimming over with excitement from the new knowledge. I'm in the Second Looie stage of my understanding... if there are any old army guys like me out there that get the reference.

As to the bypass valve location... whatever floats yer boat (; < ). You can certainly do a lot worse than the MC filters. If they only made on with a more efficient media?
 
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Jim,
Wondering if you noticed whether the Ultra is 2 ply synthetic media + a screen like the Xtended Guard. Looks like its one ply of thick synthetic media + screen?

Ultra media
UltraMedia.jpg



Xtended Guard media

100_3930.jpg



Doesn't look the same, does it? Don't know. I didn't cut that piece out of my filter just photographed a sample I was told was Ultra media. I'll double check.
 
I don't get the logic. If you are going to take the filter off, drain and reinstall it, why not just put in a new one? Why spend double on a filter to do the same labor it takes to install a new one?
 
Originally Posted By: Jim Allen
Leaky: COnfirmed! It is Ultra media. The color varies a bit in production.

So they switched to a single thick ply with a screen which has 99% efficiency and an extra 5k of filter life over the Xtended Guard. Interesting.
 
Originally Posted By: johnachak
I don't get the logic. If you are going to take the filter off, drain and reinstall it, why not just put in a new one? Why spend double on a filter to do the same labor it takes to install a new one?

From an earlier reply:

"I'm going back to them after using the purolator classic for a while and having installation and removal issues. Miss that Sure grip and sturdy shell".

The other reason is its something I want to try after reading how the efficiency gets better as the filter ages. Its rated for 15k, lets see. Labor is free.
 
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