Switching to 0W-20

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brandontoner

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I've got '93 Camry SE (3.0L V6 and 5 Speed Manual) with 230k miles on it. The owner's manual calls for 10W-30 (or 5W-30 if it's winter) and I was going to try and switch to a 0W-20 oil, either the Pennzoil Platinum or Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy, and I was wondering if there's anything I should be worried about. I'm also not concerned about the theoretical increase of fuel economy, I just want to try and protect my engine.

I know I will have to make sure I have sufficient oil pressure, and if I don't, I'm probably stuffed, and will have to switch back to a 30 grade oil. The oil also might knock of some of the sludge and carbon build up that's been collecting for the last 20 years, so the oil pressure might drop after a while because of the less restriction to flow decreasing the pressure (clogged artery analogy). It might also just consume a bunch of oil, in which case I'll have to switch back to a 30 grade oil as well. I know I should also check the oil color, and be prepared to change the filter prematurely.

My question is (finally, I know), is there anything that I've overlooked, or is it completely inadvisable? Also, a more basic question, if I have to switch back to a 30 grade oil, shouldn't a synthetic 0W-30 oil be better than the recommended (probably conventional) 10W-30 oil in every way? Better low temp viscosity and flow, same operating viscosity, cleaner, and probably getting up to temp. faster?
 
In the mild climate of Bellingham, I would just go with the OM recommendation of a -30. 0W30, 5W30 or 10W30 won't make a big difference, the OM was written when oil quality was a lot different than it is now (my 4 Runner is similar) so don't worry about a 0W30...it will be fine...but I don't see the advantage of a -20 in your car.

What kind of service history does this car have, that you're worried about sludge and carbon? You've got similar mileage to my truck, which has had about every brand of dino and synthetic, 0W30, 5W30, 10W30, 5W40 and, lately 10W40 (I buy on sale) in its 235,000 mile life...and it's got zero sludge/carbon inside the engine...
 
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Based on the age, miles, and my own experiences owning several Toyota's..you will likely consume a lot more than you are now, and leak from places you haven't seen before. Only one way to find out. If it were me, I'd be staying the same, going in the opposite direction, or what I'm doing now, blending and alternating winter/summer weights.
 
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I really haven't had the car for that long, about a year (10k miles). When I changed the oil when I first got it was pretty dark and thick, but has gotten cleaner and cleaner with subsequent oil changes. There's some evidence that the previous owner didn't take that good of care of the car, spills on the seats that were just ignored, stuff like that. Since generally speaking, Camry drivers aren't the most attentive to their cars, I just assume that it's got some carbon buildup.
 
Originally Posted By: brandontoner
Since generally speaking, Camry drivers aren't the most attentive to their cars, I just assume that it's got some carbon buildup.

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Yeah, they confuse reliability with "I don't have to do anything". Totally agree. I bought My Camry cheap because the PO thought it needed a new engine. That was 90k ago.
 
I'd use M1 0w30 AFE. No need to go down to a 20-wt in a car that wasn't spec'd for it. Don't get me wrong, I USE 0w20... but in the 08 Ram 4.7 that's spec'd for a 20-wt oil.
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
If you are not concerned about the 'theoretical' increase in fuel economy, then why change?
Why go thinner?


I might be mistaken, but I thought lower viscosity meant more flow, and more flow meant better protection, I just want to protect engine, and switching to a different oil probably the easiest possible thing to do. I don't believe that 0W-20 oils were very available in the early 90's (they still aren't) it might run just fine on -20's but they couldn't be recommended because of the availability.

And, again, I'm sure there is a difference in fuel economy with a -20 oil, but Mobil estimates a 2% difference, and I see more fluctuation than that between fill ups.
 
The thick vs. thin oil debate can be heated at times, don't worry about it. You have the right idea, the question is whether you can run thin oil on an engine as old (miles and years) as yours. My Camry can't for mechanical reasons, I suspect your in the same boat. A 5w30 synthetic may not be 0w20, but compared to the dino it ran on for years its much thinner.

This is an opinion that I can't prove as a fact..but after swapping oil brands repeatedly...Toyotas prefer XOM products. So do Toyota engineers, Toyota 0w20 is manufactured by XOM. It just feels smoother and quieter to me. Less ruff idle. Cleaner. If it were me I'd run the same thing as my Camry is on. Mobil 1 High Mileage 5w30. Its Mobil 1's full synthetic with a high mileage additive pack (extra wear additives, conditioners for seals, etc). The best of both. You can't go wrong with that.
 
Welcome boy you live in a nice place!I agree then why change. You know if it is working....
wink.gif

Originally Posted By: mechtech2
If you are not concerned about the 'theoretical' increase in fuel economy, then why change?
Why go thinner?
 
Originally Posted By: brandontoner
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
If you are not concerned about the 'theoretical' increase in fuel economy, then why change?
Why go thinner?


I might be mistaken, but I thought lower viscosity meant more flow, and more flow meant better protection, I just want to protect engine, and switching to a different oil probably the easiest possible thing to do. I don't believe that 0W-20 oils were very available in the early 90's (they still aren't) it might run just fine on -20's but they couldn't be recommended because of the availability.

And, again, I'm sure there is a difference in fuel economy with a -20 oil, but Mobil estimates a 2% difference, and I see more fluctuation than that between fill ups.

First welcome to BITOG!

You've obviously thought this through and you're original reference to oil pressure indicates to me that you're on the right track.
If you do have an oil pressure gauge in your car then you'd know how much viscosity reserve you already have at normal hot oil temp's on the 30wt oil in the sump. A light 0W-20 like PP will drop your OP about 10%; M1 AFE at little less.

If you don't have a gauge, then unless you're going to install one I wouldn't bother experimenting blind on a 20wt oil.
If you simply want to run the lightest OTC 30wt oil, that would be PP 5W-30.
 
Originally Posted By: brandontoner
There's some evidence that the previous owner didn't take that good of care of the car, spills on the seats that were just ignored, stuff like that. Since generally speaking, Camry drivers aren't the most attentive to their cars, I just assume that it's got some carbon buildup.


It's funny, when I was looking at cars for a friend's son, I ran into a '92 Camry, 2.2 4 cylinder 5speed MT that was for sale in B-ham. The guy had every documented service record since new, oil changed every 3.5K, everything else by the book. Unfortunately is was gone before we got up there. So, I guess some Camry owners take care of their stuff!

The V6 in that era was one of the "sludge prone" engines. If you change the oil regularly it's not a problem, but the reason for the sludge was high oil temps in the top half of the engine, in an effort to reduce emissions--combined with people not changing the oil frequently enough. Given that viscosity is directly related to oil temps, I think I'd stay with a light 30W oil, and I'm generally a fan of thinner oils. I think Caterham's suggestion is a good one.
 
You don't mention whether or not the engine drips oil. I agree with those recommending staying with xW-30 but would be investigating HM oils if you have drips (and with your mileage probably go HM anyway).

You also don't mention how many miles per year you plan on driving it which is how I would determine whether or not to go synthetic. If you can go a full year on conventional, i.e., 5,000+/-, there's really no need for synthetic. If you do 10,000, then I'd go synthetic just to keep the OCI at close to once per year.

From a qualitative standpoint, your Camry will run fine on just about anything you put in the crankcase.
 
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Originally Posted By: JOD
The V6 in that era was one of the "sludge prone" engines.

The 93 v6 in this post was NOT one of them. 97-01 I4's and v6's were vulnerable to sludge and gelling from poor maintenance practices and cheapskates.

Some background. As discussed on this post some Toyota owners confuse reliability with not having to maintain their car. A few model years and engines were vulnerable to sludge from poor maintenance and cheap dino combined. Toyota made the mistake of offering to repair some of them, which opened the floodgates to what non-maintainers do best, point the finger of blame at somebody else. "I bought a Toyota, this should not be happening!!!" Uh, you haven't changed your oil in 30k, what did you expect? Your lucky it runs at all.

In most cases, a few OCI's with a modern synthetic resolves the problem and the engine is fine over time. But again, the 93 v6 in the post was not one of the sludge years.
 
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