As the name suggests, Seafoam is boat engine upper cyl lube and fuel stabilizer. Its being marketed as a fix for everything including hair loss.
Seafoam vs Liqui Moly Engine Flush?
- Thread starter newhandle
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Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Ok..consider this contact. What started this was the assertion that AMSOIL Engine (and Transmission) Flush was not solvent based. That means (to me) a product that is not hard on seals, blends better with oil, etc. The MSDS does not list chemical composition. Can you please elaborate on what is it made out of, and what makes this product different than the solvent based cleaners listed above?
Amsoil Flush is not hard on seals at all. I'm not sure exactly what is in it, to be 100% honest. Esters and really low viscosity oils with a lot of detergent (Ca based), and some other organic (carbon based) liquids and longer chain amines would be my guess. It is a pretty good flush, but it's no way, no how going to clean to the base metal in a groady sludged engines. I will take multiple uses with fresh oil and filter to do that.
Originally Posted By: newhandle
I'd rather do solvent based cleaners in short bursts... you can't be too careful with sludge. That thing grips like it's part of the engine. Also, is AMSOIL a supporter of this forum now? My question was restricted to LM vs Seafoam, the answer to which was given in the first few posts. Now it's just a XXXX-swinging contest between PHDs of sludge.
I agree. Amsoil has been a supporter of BITOG for 10 years. I didn't drop Amsoil in this thread, but it was brought up in the very first response to you.
Ok..consider this contact. What started this was the assertion that AMSOIL Engine (and Transmission) Flush was not solvent based. That means (to me) a product that is not hard on seals, blends better with oil, etc. The MSDS does not list chemical composition. Can you please elaborate on what is it made out of, and what makes this product different than the solvent based cleaners listed above?
Amsoil Flush is not hard on seals at all. I'm not sure exactly what is in it, to be 100% honest. Esters and really low viscosity oils with a lot of detergent (Ca based), and some other organic (carbon based) liquids and longer chain amines would be my guess. It is a pretty good flush, but it's no way, no how going to clean to the base metal in a groady sludged engines. I will take multiple uses with fresh oil and filter to do that.
Originally Posted By: newhandle
I'd rather do solvent based cleaners in short bursts... you can't be too careful with sludge. That thing grips like it's part of the engine. Also, is AMSOIL a supporter of this forum now? My question was restricted to LM vs Seafoam, the answer to which was given in the first few posts. Now it's just a XXXX-swinging contest between PHDs of sludge.
I agree. Amsoil has been a supporter of BITOG for 10 years. I didn't drop Amsoil in this thread, but it was brought up in the very first response to you.
Originally Posted By: Pablo
Originally Posted By: newhandle
I'd rather do solvent based cleaners in short bursts... you can't be too careful with sludge. That thing grips like it's part of the engine. Also, is AMSOIL a supporter of this forum now? My question was restricted to LM vs Seafoam, the answer to which was given in the first few posts. Now it's just a XXXX-swinging contest between PHDs of sludge.
I agree. Amsoil has been a supporter of BITOG for 10 years. I didn't drop Amsoil in this thread, but it was brought up in the very first response to you.
Original post:"LM flush says to only idle engine for 10 minutes and change the oil. Does anyone know if the LM product is really that potent? May be the company knows its snake oil won't do jack and 10 minutes of idle won't bring in customer with blown engines either."
I mentioned Amsoil in the first response because it is 1 of the better engine flush. The only thing I mention about Amsoil was the time usage direction. Then I mentioned about how I used Lubegard engine flush in my cars.
I did not endorse any product. If mentioning the name of a quality product and the direction of use is not correct, then I'm sorry.
Originally Posted By: newhandle
I'd rather do solvent based cleaners in short bursts... you can't be too careful with sludge. That thing grips like it's part of the engine. Also, is AMSOIL a supporter of this forum now? My question was restricted to LM vs Seafoam, the answer to which was given in the first few posts. Now it's just a XXXX-swinging contest between PHDs of sludge.
I agree. Amsoil has been a supporter of BITOG for 10 years. I didn't drop Amsoil in this thread, but it was brought up in the very first response to you.
Original post:"LM flush says to only idle engine for 10 minutes and change the oil. Does anyone know if the LM product is really that potent? May be the company knows its snake oil won't do jack and 10 minutes of idle won't bring in customer with blown engines either."
I mentioned Amsoil in the first response because it is 1 of the better engine flush. The only thing I mention about Amsoil was the time usage direction. Then I mentioned about how I used Lubegard engine flush in my cars.
I did not endorse any product. If mentioning the name of a quality product and the direction of use is not correct, then I'm sorry.
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Originally Posted By: Pablo
Originally Posted By: newhandle
I'd rather do solvent based cleaners in short bursts... you can't be too careful with sludge. That thing grips like it's part of the engine. Also, is AMSOIL a supporter of this forum now? My question was restricted to LM vs Seafoam, the answer to which was given in the first few posts. Now it's just a XXXX-swinging contest between PHDs of sludge.
I agree. Amsoil has been a supporter of BITOG for 10 years. I didn't drop Amsoil in this thread, but it was brought up in the very first response to you.
Original post:"LM flush says to only idle engine for 10 minutes and change the oil. Does anyone know if the LM product is really that potent? May be the company knows its snake oil won't do jack and 10 minutes of idle won't bring in customer with blown engines either."
I mentioned Amsoil in the first response because it is 1 of the better engine flush. The only thing I mention about Amsoil was the time usage direction. Then I mentioned about how I used Lubegard engine flush in my cars.
I did not endorse any product. If mentioning the name of a quality product and the direction of use is not correct, then I'm sorry.
Nothing at all wrong with that.
I just wanted to be clear the only reason I popped in because of the mention of the older Amsoil flush.
Originally Posted By: Pablo
Originally Posted By: newhandle
I'd rather do solvent based cleaners in short bursts... you can't be too careful with sludge. That thing grips like it's part of the engine. Also, is AMSOIL a supporter of this forum now? My question was restricted to LM vs Seafoam, the answer to which was given in the first few posts. Now it's just a XXXX-swinging contest between PHDs of sludge.
I agree. Amsoil has been a supporter of BITOG for 10 years. I didn't drop Amsoil in this thread, but it was brought up in the very first response to you.
Original post:"LM flush says to only idle engine for 10 minutes and change the oil. Does anyone know if the LM product is really that potent? May be the company knows its snake oil won't do jack and 10 minutes of idle won't bring in customer with blown engines either."
I mentioned Amsoil in the first response because it is 1 of the better engine flush. The only thing I mention about Amsoil was the time usage direction. Then I mentioned about how I used Lubegard engine flush in my cars.
I did not endorse any product. If mentioning the name of a quality product and the direction of use is not correct, then I'm sorry.
Nothing at all wrong with that.
I just wanted to be clear the only reason I popped in because of the mention of the older Amsoil flush.
I read about "seals going bad" in every single thread. Isn't it easier to just dump a can of whatever flush in a jar with a seal or 2 and let cook @ normal oil temperature for 2 days or so? I simply refuse to buy the theory that "any" engine flush is potent enough to ruin a seal. Rubber isn't something that would dissolve away like that, let alone for within 100 miles of driving. If it's safe enough to pour into your hand, it better be safe for anything inside the engine.
I think I should devise an experiment and give every flush a run for its money. Step-1: How to form sludge on metal. Ok I give up.
I think I should devise an experiment and give every flush a run for its money. Step-1: How to form sludge on metal. Ok I give up.
http://mechdb.com/index.php/Seafoam
This website seems to love the stuff.
This website seems to love the stuff.
I've never had any success with solvent based flushes either put into the crankcase 1000 km before the oil change, or right before the oil change where the engine is held slightly above idle speed. I just can't believe that a large amount of solvent which could wreak havoc with seals, can remove baked on coke like carbon deposits in a short time. My most recent engine clean out consisted of driving with thin and high detergent Mobil 1 5W30 for eight hours on the highway. The oil was totally black when I got back into town, I changed the oil to a thicker 10W30 Syntec and Redline blend, my valves have never been quieter, and I get less pronounced piston slap noises on startup. Of course, I can't be entirely sure if what I'm experiencing is simply that my engine prefers a thicker oil. I do have Liqui Moly Motor Oil Saver in the crankcase right now as well to try to condition the seals. This is a straight ester additive like Auto-RX. There is however ester in the Redline too which I blend in 20%
Originally Posted By: newhandle
I read about "seals going bad" in every single thread. Isn't it easier to just dump a can of whatever flush in a jar with a seal or 2 and let cook @ normal oil temperature for 2 days or so? I simply refuse to buy the theory that "any" engine flush is potent enough to ruin a seal. Rubber isn't something that would dissolve away like that, let alone for within 100 miles of driving. If it's safe enough to pour into your hand, it better be safe for anything inside the engine.
I think I should devise an experiment and give every flush a run for its money. Step-1: How to form sludge on metal. Ok I give up.
Me rikey. Solvent flushes most definitely cause great harm to engine seals, but only in cars owned by people unfamiliar with the chemical/elastomer compatibility charts widely available on the Net. For those drivers familiar with the charts, little or no harm occurs.
I read about "seals going bad" in every single thread. Isn't it easier to just dump a can of whatever flush in a jar with a seal or 2 and let cook @ normal oil temperature for 2 days or so? I simply refuse to buy the theory that "any" engine flush is potent enough to ruin a seal. Rubber isn't something that would dissolve away like that, let alone for within 100 miles of driving. If it's safe enough to pour into your hand, it better be safe for anything inside the engine.
I think I should devise an experiment and give every flush a run for its money. Step-1: How to form sludge on metal. Ok I give up.
Me rikey. Solvent flushes most definitely cause great harm to engine seals, but only in cars owned by people unfamiliar with the chemical/elastomer compatibility charts widely available on the Net. For those drivers familiar with the charts, little or no harm occurs.
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