Is there a way to measure clutch life remaining?

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Most of the MT cars I've owned give a very short warning period of slippage and then you're stranded. I'm wondering if there is any way to measure or observe how much life remains in a clutch so that it can be replaced prior to complete failure.
 
I've heard this.
If you are at a stop (parking brake released) and shift it into the highest gear (5th or 6th) very slowly release the clutch. If the engine keeps running and the car doesn't jerk... your clutch is starting to slip.
 
There are ways to check a clutch, but no way to determine how much life is remaining. One method to check has been mentioned above.

I get up to about 25-30 mph and shift into the highest gear and punch it out. If the tach revs up and the engine doesn't lug or the vehicle gain some speed then the clutch is NG. With a 4 cyl engine get up to about 25 mph, shift to one gear below the highest gear and punch it out, then its the same as above.
 
AS I recall I had a Volvo with an inspection port behind a rubber plug. Perhaps a shop manual would tell you if your car does. Probably not very commmon any longer.
 
Older Mercedes had a similar method for checking the disc.
To the OP, you can usually nurse a slipping clutch along for quite a few miles.
The trick, of course, is to avoid making it slip.
Clutches also seem to last longer today than they used to, although how the car is driven, highway versus city, as well as how the driver uses the clutch are probably the major factors in clutch life.
 
Originally Posted By: Eddie
On my past vehicles with a manual, I was able to see the disk thickness through an inspection slot.


I was never that lucky. Even with an inspection cover you can only see the edge of the disk and never really know how close you are to the rivets, if so equipped. There really isn't all that much meat on an automotive clutch disk. OTOH even clutches with a lot of meat remaining can have weak springs, be burnt or glazed. Testing the clutch can reveal those issues as well.

Another test is coming to a complete stop and shift into Reverse, without shifting into 1st gear first. If it grinds it might not be fully releasing which is another problem.
 
Thanks for the responses.

When I am driving leisurely, my car is real easy to upshift without the clutch and I probably shift this way about one third the time. I assume that not using the clutch this way extends it's life. Do you agree?
 
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You could shorten the life of your syncros

You might extend the life of the release bearing

Really, most clutches should last the normal expected life of your car, IF used properly, in normal service.

I can't understand a slipping clutch stranding you. You would normally get several thousand miles warning, and even be forced to Gear Down on hills before a clutch will not transmit drive at all.

Some Old Timers and Truck Drivers are in the habit of Double Clutching!
Get good at it, and you only need the clutch to start from a standstill.
 
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Very little clutch wear occurs when shifting.... assuming you match the rev's a little and do not slip it a lot while shifting.

Those who rev the engine a lot and slip the clutch for a long time when starting out will have a short lived clutch.

Remember: slipping is wearing!!

Our cars regularly go to the dump at 300,000 miles with the original clutch untouched...... and still performing well.

That said, clutches may fail for other reasons, pressure plate failure is not unknown.
 
yep you take the transmission off and pull the clutch off and take a look. After all that you might as well put a new one in.
 
Originally Posted By: Indydriver
Thanks for the responses.

When I am driving leisurely, my car is real easy to upshift without the clutch and I probably shift this way about one third the time. I assume that not using the clutch this way extends it's life. Do you agree?


It isn't the greatest thing in the world for the syncros but it can be done, and "if" done right poses no risk. The big word in that statement is "if". As mentioned little clutch wear occurs when up shifting, most wear occurs during hilly starts especially for people who lack the skill needed to take off on a hill, then starts from full stops takes its toll, and improper downshifting.

When I sold Honda cars I found their 4 cylinder Civics and Accords about the easiest vehicles to shift without the clutch. In fact I could drive them as far as I wanted only using the clutch if I had to stop for a light. Not all MT vehicles are that user friendly.
 
Originally Posted By: Indydriver
Thanks for the responses.

When I am driving leisurely, my car is real easy to upshift without the clutch and I probably shift this way about one third the time. I assume that not using the clutch this way extends it's life. Do you agree?


Not worth it. Synchros actually work better with the clutch working normally.
There is almost no load or wear on the disc when you rev match up or down shifts.
Clutches can let go if something breaks, oil gets on it, or more slowly give warnings with normal wear. This one really depends on the driver. 75k for a knucklehead driver, or 300,000 for a mostly highway driven car.
 
This is something I worry about. I have 140K on the OE clutch and have spent more than a few nights at the dragstrip and a lot of track time. Mostly I am pretty easy on the clutch, but there is no way to tell if it has 10% life left or 50%. It is not uncommon in this car for a pivot ball to break rendering the clutch useless in an instant.

At this point I have a somewhat worrying tap/knock when hot that will probably result in the motor being pulled or the car being sold within the next year. If the motor is pulled I will replace the clutch. I will have to decide if the cost to rebuild is worth the money.
 
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