2007 F350 6.0 Powerstroke with Esso XD3 0W40

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Western Canadians can try MetroTech oil analysis in Calgary.

I've had about 7 of them done. Terry Dyson raised no issues with their analysis.

Drop off the bottle and you'll get a PDF with your UOA by email inside 24 hours is my experience.
 
As stated above, I decided just to see what whould happen if I ran my oil out past 8000 km as I has been doing.

Oil4.jpg


As I said in a prior post, this will be the last post using blackstone, they have moved the goalposts on what the viscosity should be 3 times now, cant get the oil type/name right and now are saying that my oil picked up some zinc and de-sheared with additional use. No more needs to be said about blackstone as far as I am concerned. I do think that I may try an extended drain again though.
 
Here is my next oil change. Oil used was a mismash of what I had to use up. 7L of Petro Canada Duron-E 10W40 (CJ4), 2.5L of ESSO XD3 0W40 (CI4), 4L of the newer ESSO at (CI4+), and I had to add 1L of makeup oil Quaker State 15W40 (CJ4). Oil Consumption was a bit high this last time but overall I think that it is a good report, iron is high but come down significantly. So much for mixing oils being a bad practice. I will also add that I run an aftermarket AFE air filter, so much for aftermarket filters not being able to return good Silicone numbers. Next change will be with Castrol Hypuron 15W40 (CJ4). As usual comments are welcome.

Oil5.jpg
 
The resolution on the pictures is sufficient that you can up the zoom of your browser to 200% or higher and they view great. Let me know if your browser will not do that and if so I will post the links.
 
I got the zoom sorted...I agree on Blackstone. Otherwise, the CAT sample looks pretty good. Nice to see your iron coming down, and also good that mixing doesn't seem to cause any issues.
 
Here is the latest change. Engine is progressing with breakin, I am only posting for the benefit of others now. Oil should say Castrol Hypuron 15W40 which is a CJ4 spec. Oil held its viscosity really well considering what my engine has done to other oils at the same interval. I will run this oil again next summer and hopefully longer if I dont have to take it out for cold weather. Next change will be with PetroCan 0W40 which I have in for the cold weather, its noticibly better in the cold.
Again adjust your zoom to view.
Oil6.jpg
 
Adjust your zoom to view if required.
I ran this oil longer than normal, it sheared down big time but that doesnt seem to really have hurt my wear numbers too much. Going back to the castrol 15w-40 for the summer.
Oil7.jpg
 
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You going back to the Hypurion 15W-40? That seems to be a really good oil - nice cold-weather specs on it. I suspect it is actaully much closer to a 10W-40 than a 15W-40.

As you know, it's easy to get at WM!
 
Yes it is the Hypuron one. It is semi-synthetic and the price premium is only one or two dollars over the other 15W40s on the shelf in the 4L quantity. It has by far been the most shear resistant oil i have run through this engine, I am likely going to stick with oil as my summer oil for the long term but I would like to try a Petro Canada semi-syn, I will price it out next year, its not as convienent as Walmart but the PetroCan bulk dealers give a pretty decent price when you buy a case (4x4L) of it.
 
It's been a long time since I have updated this. All continues well.
Adjust your screen zoom if it is hard to read, photo resolution is very good.

Oil11.jpg
 
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I'm struggling to understand the layout. I'm not familiar with the CAT UOAs.

Is that 12,000 hours of oil use?
Why is it listed as Shell 5w-40?
 
Originally Posted By: Duffman77
Oil is Shell Rotella T6, CJ4 in 5W40.

I assume you just tagged onto your old UOA with an update.
It would be easier for those who use the search feature if you would post new UOA data in a new thread each time. Your history is already in the succesive UOAs.

So the oil hours is km's = 7.5k miles. OK - got that.
Would the CMU/SMU be 98.x km's in total duration? Roughly 60k miles or so, total for the vehicle?


Regardless, looks fairly normal for a PSD with 12k km (=7.5k miles) on the oil.

Fe seems to track with the vis, but only loosely. Not so much the starting virgin vis on the container, as they are all 40 grades, but the vis as it relates to accumulated exposure. As you accumulate longer runs, the oil seems to shear and the Fe seems to track with it. IN NO WAY is the Fe count bad or alarming; just a note of how you can see some correlation regardless of which multi-grade you use. (Fe is also cumulative in the lube; don't forget that.) Typical shearing in a PSD. Nearly every UOA I've seen with HEUI shows shearing eventually if a 40 grade is utilized. However, using a 30 grade from the start rarely results in much, if any, shearing. Almost as if the HEUI systems simply prefer it. That shearing effect also seems to have minimal effect on wear other than Fe. Bearing, upper end and ring wear (Cu, Pb, Al, Cr) all seem to stay fairly consistent.

Overall, a decent, if not unexpected report.

I see you've bounced between 0w-40, 5w-40, 10w-40, and 15w-40. And yet the wear overall (Cu, Pb, Al, Cr) all seem very consistent. And the Fe is not all that bad in variability either. The Fe is probably a combination of the vis degredation and also exposure, which obviously go hand-in-hand. This shows that the engine really does not have a great affinity for any particular brand/grade.

As you have the willingness to experiment with brand/grades, I would suggest trying one of two things:
1) consider using a 10w-30 year round. The lighter grade really helps with the "romp" on very cold starts, and yet there are plenty of UOAs to show that this lighter grade protects just as well as the sheared 40 grades.
2) consider using the least expensive dino or semi-syn you can find. All your OCIs seem to be around 8-12k km (5-7.5k miles). That is not really a reason to use syn's. I would presume you're using syns to either assist in the cold starts and/or because you believe it might result in less wear. But ...
Your UOA data is showing you that the engine really does not care what brand/grade of lube is used, nor does it have preference for base stock. You might as well use a good quality light grade dino oil; you'll get good starts, good protection, and spend less. After all, you're paying for the data; why not listen to what it's telling you?
 
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Thanks for the detailed reply dnewton3.

I cant do much about the title anymore but I do think there is value in having all my history in one thread.

You are correct in that I have approx 60k miles on my unit.

I have considered a 10W30 after seeing others results with it on this board. The issue is availability, I have not found it in a store yet (I could get it from my Petro Canada bulk dealer though). There is always the issue of using up old stock as well, I used up my last of the Petro Can Duron XL 10W40 which is a synthetic CI-4 PLUS oil in the current change. I have a partial jug of the T6 and some 0W40 T5 that will go in this fall for the winter. I didn't have my head on when I bought the T5 as it is an older spec but I'm sure it will be ok, I am not pushing the oil hard at all.

You are correct in that I use the synthetic for cold starts (gets -40 here for about a week a year) and like the high heat benefits for the turbo with respect to resistance to coking. I would really like to get my hands on a 0W30 that is CI4 PLUS or CJ4 for winter use but I will not mail order to get it. I would like some recommendations on that if anybody has any.

In comparing my engine with other 6.0 powerstrokes I have noticed my iron content is always higher while all the other elements always seem to come out better. I agree that it is not excessive and just the character of my particular 6.0. The other observation I have taken is that the greater the separation between the first number and last number (ie 0W40 vs 15W40) the greater the oil has sheared which should be expected as there is more VI to shear. Really the best oil in that regard has been the Castrol Hypuron 15W40 which is a semi-syn CJ4, but I only find it at walmart and don't really like buying it there, also I can get the Duron XL for only a little more.
 
Actually the Rotella T6 has held up quite well shear wise considering most people say to change the oil at 8000 km, the time I did that with the T6 it did stay in range, this last 12,000 km run still out did some of the other oils too despite a 50% longer run.
 
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