Oil for Rav4

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I would also recommend the PCV valve change....using Genuine Toyota brand.
If you have the screw in type......I would STILL change it.
Also....give it a good look to see if it is clogged.
If it is....then you may end up needing to change the valve cover due to deposits built up between the baffle plate and the top of the vavle cover.
It is NOT likely that you have this condition....but it can happen....and the only good way to solve it is with a new valve cover.......that is if they have the same setup that they used on the 6 cylinder valve covers.
Having the engine breathing through the PCV valve and IN through the breather input....is CRITICAL to engine life....by avoiding the sludge/gell buildup that will result if you don't have that airflow.

If you like the Purolator filter.......I like the Bosch Distance Plus filter (same company) as it has a better pressure bypass valve, even better media than the P1 and a thicker metal for the can.
I have cut them both open and read river_rat's "from the bench" filter analysis.

The Mobil 1 5W-30 that others have recommended is a great oil.


VVT-i At least on the 1MZFE 6 cylinder, there is a screen filter in the oil flow path for the VVT actuators......which I found listed on the dealership parts list.....as being available.
So, if you come up with a VVT issue....that would be something that I would look into before replacing the phaser/actuator.
 
Originally Posted By: wiswind
I would also recommend the PCV valve change....using Genuine Toyota brand.
If you have the screw in type......I would STILL change it.
Also....give it a good look to see if it is clogged.
If it is....then you may end up needing to change the valve cover due to deposits built up between the baffle plate and the top of the vavle cover.
It is NOT likely that you have this condition....but it can happen....and the only good way to solve it is with a new valve cover.......that is if they have the same setup that they used on the 6 cylinder valve covers.
Having the engine breathing through the PCV valve and IN through the breather input....is CRITICAL to engine life....by avoiding the sludge/gell buildup that will result if you don't have that airflow.

If you like the Purolator filter.......I like the Bosch Distance Plus filter (same company) as it has a better pressure bypass valve, even better media than the P1 and a thicker metal for the can.
I have cut them both open and read river_rat's "from the bench" filter analysis.

The Mobil 1 5W-30 that others have recommended is a great oil.


VVT-i At least on the 1MZFE 6 cylinder, there is a screen filter in the oil flow path for the VVT actuators......which I found listed on the dealership parts list.....as being available.
So, if you come up with a VVT issue....that would be something that I would look into before replacing the phaser/actuator.


Interesting information-thanks-I have been using Wix or NAPA Gold filters for quite a few years now and they seem to work fine, so I'll probably stick with either of those. The engine does run very smooth--no ticking on startup or otherwise--.Wiswind and LeakySeals, you both seem to have a plethra of knowledge about Toyotas. Thanks again-as I said before; I think I will change the PCV valve and switch to a highmileage oil--just have to decide which-dino or synthetic. I'll start with those things and see how the oil consumption goes. Go from there and see what happens.

______________________________
97 Prk.Ave.-5-30 QSGB and Wix filter
03 Corolla-5-30 Cenex Maxtron and Wix filter
04 Rav4-5-30 Mobil 5000 and Wix filter
 
I used Wix filters for years and they were a solid filter....got the job done.
They have a LOT of information on their website.
They list the specifications for each filter.....including efficiency.

I prefer synthetic oil over "dyno" but dyno has come a LONG way over the years.
I'm NOT a extended Oil Change Interval guy with Toyota engines.
I also would not go to a heavier oil than specified.....I would try what you are......going to a High Mileage oil that has additional detergents to try to clean things up.
 
Originally Posted By: wiswind
I used Wix filters for years and they were a solid filter....got the job done.
They have a LOT of information on their website.
They list the specifications for each filter.....including efficiency.

I prefer synthetic oil over "dyno" but dyno has come a LONG way over the years.
I'm NOT a extended Oil Change Interval guy with Toyota engines.
I also would not go to a heavier oil than specified.....I would try what you are......going to a High Mileage oil that has additional detergents to try to clean things up.

In my wife's Corolla I have been using synthetic. QSUD and Cenex Maxtron. The little thing runs like a champ and I run 5 to 6,000 intervals. The Mobil 1 high mileage synthetic sounds like a plan for the Rav4-I'll give it a shot and see what happens. I too do not run extended oil change intervals. And yes I do know that today's oils can go much longer but I do the 3,000 mile changes on my Prk. Ave. that now has over 200,000 miles and 5 to 6,000 with synthetic. Old school I guess - but it gives me peace of mind and I use the old oil in a burner in the shop.

_______________________
97 Prk.Ave.-5-30 QSGB and Wix filter
03 Corolla-5-30 Cenex Maxtron and Wix filter
04 Rav4-5-30 Mobil 5000 (for now) and Wix filter
 
Based on my experience with your engine and M1 HM 5w30 for thousands of miles now, I think you should..

4k for the first OCI. Dip stick should start getting dark at 1500. M1 HM has heavy cleaners, will kick up a lot of leftovers from other oils. For subsequent OCI's 6k is a good spot for that engine with that oil. You will always see a darkening of M1 HM sooner or later. Its just the oil cleaning and keeping the junk floating, off your engine, removed at oil change.
 
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Based on my experience with your engine and M1 HM 5w30 for thousands of miles now, I think you should..

4k for the first OCI. Dip stick should start getting dark at 1500. M1 HM has heavy cleaners, will kick up a lot of leftovers from other oils. For subsequent OCI's 6k is a good spot for that engine with that oil. You will always see a darkening of M1 HM sooner or later. Its just the oil cleaning and keeping the junk floating, off your engine, removed at oil change.

Thanks for advice-I'll let the Mobil 5000 in it now run out another 800 miles and then give the Mobil HM a shot along with the Wix filter (got a lot of them in my stash). We'll see what happens and go from there. I do like the idea of running synthetic in it as we have some cold weather up here and it will help with the startups in the mornings.
________________________
97 Prk. Ave.-5-30 QSGB and Wix filter
03 Corolla-5-30 Cenex Maxtron and Wix filter
04 Rav4-5-30 Mobil 5000 (for now) and Wix filter
 
LeakySeals said:
I would go with a full synthetic. Our engines are prone to clogging/sticking of the VVT-i controller. If you start it in the morning and hear a momentary tick or some ticking when you first pull away, that's it. I'm using Mobil 1 High Mileage 5w30. 6k OCI. Its a thick version of Mobil 1's synthetic with a High Mileage additive pack. Swellers/conditioners for leaks, extra cleaners to get rid of deposits. Solved my sticky VVT-i controller, no ticking. $26.50 Walmart. WM also sells the Purolator Classic $3.27. You PN should be L14477. That or the P1 sold elsewhere works good. [/quote

I wasn't aware these engines had an issue with this. Can it produce what sounds like a valve tap that can be heard at all times? I ran my 2011 scion xb on pretty much nothing but pyb 5w20 and at around 22000 miles on the car with PP 0w20 in it, it developed what I thought was a valve tap, but now I wonder if the vvti was possibly the problem. I've since traded it in on a 2012, but I want to make sure I avoid this issue again since the dealer didn't want to do anything to fix it. I was planning on either pyb or vwb every 5000 but now wonder if I should stick with synthetic, maybe either PP 0w20 or the Toyota 0w20
 
Regarding Toyota I4's

The Toyota I4 VVT-i is prone to a buildup of deposits over time in the narrow gallies of the VVT-i system. This can lead to sticking of the actuator in the wrong position, resulting in a ticking sound. Most noticeable at startup. I don't think this applies to your 2011, its too new. This may have: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2455182&page=all

Toyota I4's are also prone to sticky rings and clogged piston oil returns leading to increased oil consumption over time. TSB's with modified piston designs were released to resolve this.

Latest model I4's recommend synthetic only. I don't blame Toyota, the above problems were experienced primarily by the combination of cheap dino and neglected OCI's. Those that changed the dino short or on time, those that used synthetic for extended intervals had no issues for the most part.

Your supposed to be running synthetic, suggest you do. Toyota's thin 0w20 is not that expensive. If cost is an issue, the shelves at walmart have many options. Stick to the specified weight. Good syn interval is 7-8k on your 2012 engine. Cut that in half for dino. So your not saving anything with the dino route IMO.
 
Hmmm! Maybe I should be running Mobil 1 HM in my wife's Corolla-it has 95,000 plus on it. What do you think? I've been using QSUD and Cenx Maxtron the last 4 changes.

____________________
97 Prk.Ave.-5-30 WSGB and Wix filter
03 Corolla-5-30 Cenex Maxtron and Wix filter
04 Rav4-5-30 Mobil 5000 (for now) and Wix filter
 
98-02 gen Corollas were plagued with heavy oil consumption problems. The problem was piston design. Only 4 oil return holes that were too small and would clog. The dino/neglected OCI combo would make it happen easily. 75% of them, the ones that didnt ran synthetic. Fixed 03+ with a modified 8 hole large hole piston design. Depending on the date your engine was manufactured, you have the 8 hole modified piston and are not experiencing consumption issues. From what I read 03+ are trouble free. Your currently using synthetic. Your vvt-i system should be quit, no ticking. If all is good, no external oil leaks, you can just keep doing what your doing. Unless there's a reason, 150k would be a better generic number for HM oil. I think the 75k recommendation to switch over to HM oils is dated. If you would like them both run the same, (have extra oil for topoffs, etc) there's no reason you cant switch the Corolla to M1 HM.
 
My 2011 did not have any oil consumption issues, nor does my 2012 seem to at this point either. I wasn't aware mine called for the use of synthetic though either. I bought my 2012 slightly used and it did not have the owners manual with it, so they left me take the manual out of my 2011 when I traded it in. My oil fill cap says 5w-20 or 0w-20. I was considering using pp 0w-20 since the toyota dealer is so far away from me, but I've been afraid to try it again as my 2011 didn't start making the tapping sound until I had switched to that, although I'm sure the oil had nothing to do with it. My thinking was that a dino oil should be ok though since gf-5 requirements are so strict. And I think I'll have to stick with 5,000 mile oci's as thats what toyota specs for these cars, if I want to stay in warranty. that was my other reason for running conventional
 
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Originally Posted By: afoulk
My 2011 did not have any oil consumption issues, nor does my 2012 seem to at this point either. I wasn't aware mine called for the use of synthetic though either. I bought my 2012 slightly used and it did not have the owners manual with it, so they left me take the manual out of my 2011 when I traded it in. My oil fill cap says 5w-20 or 0w-20. I was considering using pp 0w-20 since the toyota dealer is so far away from me, but I've been afraid to try it again as my 2011 didn't start making the tapping sound until I had switched to that, although I'm sure the oil had nothing to do with it. My thinking was that a dino oil should be ok though since gf-5 requirements are so strict. And I think I'll have to stick with 5,000 mile oci's as thats what toyota specs for these cars, if I want to stay in warranty. that was my other reason for running conventional

I'm getting confused. Although the Scion uses Toyota's 2.4L I4, it may not specify the same oil. Scions have always used parts a couple years behind the current Toyota line. What made Scions relatively cheap to own. Not sure if thats true anymore. Not familiar enough with Scions to give an accurate answer.
 
afoulk I took a look and its what I thought, your Scion xb still runs the older 2.4L I4 which is 5w20. Toyota started migrating to a 2.5L I4 that runs 0w20 syn in 2009-10.
 
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
98-02 gen Corollas were plagued with heavy oil consumption problems. The problem was piston design. Only 4 oil return holes that were too small and would clog. The dino/neglected OCI combo would make it happen easily. 75% of them, the ones that didnt ran synthetic. Fixed 03+ with a modified 8 hole large hole piston design. Depending on the date your engine was manufactured, you have the 8 hole modified piston and are not experiencing consumption issues. From what I read 03+ are trouble free. Your currently using synthetic. Your vvt-i system should be quit, no ticking. If all is good, no external oil leaks, you can just keep doing what your doing. Unless there's a reason, 150k would be a better generic number for HM oil. I think the 75k recommendation to switch over to HM oils is dated. If you would like them both run the same, (have extra oil for topoffs, etc) there's no reason you cant switch the Corolla to M1 HM.


Leakyseals-most definetly you are an interesting read. As I said in an earlier post; the wife's Corolla runs great and maybe I'll wait a bit to use the HM oil in it. I guess I will concentrate on the Rav4 for now. Thanks again--

______________________
97 Prk.Ave.-5-30 QSGB and Wix filter
03 Corolla-5-30 Cenex Maxtron and Wix filter
04 Rav4-5-30 Mobil 5000 (for now) and Wix filter
 
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
afoulk I took a look and its what I thought, your Scion xb still runs the older 2.4L I4 which is 5w20. Toyota started migrating to a 2.5L I4 that runs 0w20 syn in 2009-10.

Yeah, I thought the OP had the 2.4 in his RAV4, I thought it was the newer ones that switched to the 2.5. The only problems I was aware of in the 2.4 was the water pumps leaking, head bolt issues, and oil consumption and coil pack issues on the older ones. The water pump I can live with, it looks easy to change, and I'm hoping by changing the coolant out every 2-3 years I can avoid the head bolt issues. I'm just hoping to avoid the top end noise again with this one, my wife isn't gonna let me trade this one in until the wheels fall off
grin.gif
 
The head bolt issue was 02-04 2.4's only. You dont have the issue, your head wont suddenly separate from the block resulting in instant catastrophic overheat. You can relax now....But I can't.
smile.gif
 
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