Under valve cover, 1992 Civic D15Z1 w/ 265k+ miles

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265,000+ miles or there about...this was going to be just before the head gasket job and the manifolds/head was to come off, but waiting for further to condemn the HG before moving forward. If interested in helping on that issue of this engine's coolant loss, please contribute here.

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NOTE: I have only started servicing the car since December of 2009 or about 35k-40k miles ago.
 
Yeah, it's the first car I've started getting into more serious vehicle maintenance. I'm a learner, alright. Glad it wasn't sludged or varnished. It just seems to be stained metal at this point, as far as I could tell.
 
For a direct link:

http://img37.imageshack.us/img37/7465/1004056k.jpg

Well, I used Valvoline MaxLife 5w-30 for the first 9 months or so; maybe 7,500 miles. The car had some obvious carbon deposits in oil drains after first purchasing the vehicle. So, I used Amsoil's 'new' engine flush (the transmission and engine flush labeled product) at idle only with no load applied, for about 15 minutes prior to draining the oil twice. This increased the number of deposits initially seen in the drained oil.

I swapped over the M1 AFE 0w-30 for a 3,000 mile OCI(probably still API-SM); this is again an unknown app. I'm new to BITOG at the time and I'm uncertain with the engine(I did only just now get a valve cover removal pic, because a friend/mechanic was gathering evidence before replacing the head gasket)...

After this, I used Amsoil 0w30 SSO and got my first UOA performed w/ TBN. Insols were 'meh' higher than I liked, so I used a mix of 2 qts T6 w/ a remaining quart of AFE 0w-30 and a pint of MMO; then added another 8 ounces to top it off.

Since then, I've tried MoS2 twice; once with Amsoil AZO (my 2nd 0w-30 amsoil run; post API-SN era begin) and once with Pennzoil Ultra just prior to the current fill.

Yes, overkill I realize...oh and I tried Lubro-Moly's Pro Line engine flush. After skipping an engine flush for a bit in 2011; prior to using Pennzoil this past December. (UOA linked at the end)

The Pro Line engine flush didn't reveal any more depositing.

I've also used Amsoil's Power Foam twice on this engine for combustion chamber soaking, I've used Red Line's SI-1 fuel additive and Amsoil's Pi. Tried MMO a bit, and failed at trying TC-W3. So, it's either PEA containing or no additives for me in this app.

Now, I'm using Valvoline conventional with Lubegard's engine oil additive. I'm actually quite pleased so far, seems alright placebo is better than with MoS2.

To be fair, the car is acting really weird lately so I can't rely on placebo.

IACV probably needs to go, maybe 1 other sensor(no CEL of course go figure), but worst of all is it potentially has a head gasket and/or oil cooler leak internally mixing with the oil. My last UOA is the first I've seen confirmed coolant.

Here is the thread:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2655364&page=1

PS: I also can't stress enough the other maintenance areas not related to engine oil, additive, etc. This is strictly only in regards to what I put into the engine via gas tank or oil filler/air intake ingestion, etc.
 
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Good info. Will always seem like the first flush, first cleaner oil worked best because it was used when the engine was dirtiest. Biggest change, most noticeable results. Subsequent cleaners don't seem to do as much because your mostly cleaned out by then. What you do know, is what you did worked. Subsequent synthetic runs took the rest of the varnish off and prevented sludge from returning.

Not sure if you mentioned the UOA showed signs of coolant? Or are you just losing coolant? The engine appears far to clean for substantial coolant to be mixing. However roughness and loss of coolant together is a sign. I've had luck with Steel Seal on smaller leaks. If its simply a bouncing unstable idle, fixed an early 90's honda the other day replacing the TPS
 
Well, currentl consumption has been about 1 quart every 3,000 miles at most. Depends on the oil.

Pennzoil Ultra only lost about 1.5 Quarts over 7,500 miles last time. That was my first oil change after installing the new clutch in December.

Some good points Leaky, and currently I like the lubegard mix.

Yes, there 'is' coolant in the most recent UOA I linked above. Potassium went up to 50 ppm and Sodium over 100, previous OCI was Amsoil; IIRC, but these last 2 times I added Lubro-Moly MoS2 with each of those respectively.

I haven't used high mileage oil since the Valvoline MaxLife when first owning the car. Syn blend.

However, once coolant loss is gone and another short interval on dino to follow I'll be over to Max Life Full Synthetic. I plan to run it at least 5,000 miles and sample.

Really like the lubegard so far. We'll see.

I hope it's no worse than a '20 year old' head gasket finally letting go. Compression was fine, though, that's the thing; and the cooling system is holding it's own pressure. Where could there be a leak in the cooling system that would not reveal much of a pressure drop?

IMO, there is only a small amount of seeping going on some where. As someone in the mechanical/maintenance section thread mentioned, these cars have 'head lift' in some cases. I haven't overheated the car before so. When we first bought the car, the coolant was 1/2 gallon low or so and the temp was 'elevated', but it wasn't a problem. No steam or smoke, etc. However, the coolant didn't disappear at the radiator cap until the last 3 months or so; some time during the Pennzoil OCI.
 
I'd like to add, I didn't see the valve train since owning the car. So, in theory it could have been this clean before. I don't think this was a sludger at all, not typical of Honda 4 cylinders like the Civics anyway.

However, that isn't the same as depositing in the combustion chamber and cylinder head rings, etc. as well as valves.
 
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