Problem with bleeding brakes, air still comes in.

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Hi all! I have a 95 SOHC ATX plumouth neon. Yesterday, i installed new kesley frotn end calipers, new atuozone rubber hoses, installed the crush washers, and new raybestos pads. The metal line to rubber hose leaked after re tightening, so i put the older rubber hose back on and leaked stopped. Passenger side.
Made sure the master cyclinder was hlaf emtpy then filled each application ( never went bone dry). I used a vacuum pump guage i bought at autozone (34) for a one man bleed. it pulled fluid and air through, but the pedal still went too the floor after and after and after ( went through an entire 32 oz container of dot 3 fluid). brown [censored] did come out.
So got a one man brake bleeder, asked roomate (mechancially and atuo inclined) to help. he even had problems. now, the front end of my car was jacked up on jackstands. i never bled brakes before. thiers no real way for me to have the car leveel witht he tries off. I belive the car was supposed to remain flat/even? read doing this with car inclined will only let more air in...
he all he could think, was the master cyclinder was going. its barely wet around the back of the cyclinder, but it isnt leaking for sure..what shuold i do? or can i use? any ideas on what is casuing air to get back in>?or not totaly evacuate the brake ssytem?
 
I just saw a youtube vid, on gravity bleeding, made by autozone..put celar line on bleeder screw, open, and let gravity drain it into a container..wouldnt it be in a half filled closed capped bottle of DOT 3 fluid? seems to me air would get in since air rises.. does gravity bleeding work? and if so how long would 2 calipers (front car) take?
 
I have always "Gravity Bled" a new caliper... takes no tools.. just patience.

We put the caliper on, open the bleeder, make sure there's enough brake fluid and wait for a steady drip... never touching the pedal. Once a steady drip is established, we close the bleeder, and check the pedal. If the pedal feels OK, it gets a test drive... in a 25MPH area with frequent stop signs... or on a back road.

Usually, that method works super for us. I don't over think things. This is a message board FULL of over thinking!

I've bled brakes with just me, a pan, and gravity to very good success.
 
Gravity bleeding is the way to go unless you have a Motive Products pressure bleeder.Brake fluid starts high in the master cylinder,its heavier than air,it will flow downward filling the lines and pushing out the trapped air.Works in about 30 seconds.
 
Find a buddy with a pressure bleeder or get a spare master cylinder cap and a clean/new bug sprayer to make a $25 DIY pressure bleeder. Google DIY pressure bleeder if you need actual instructions.

Having done all three methods of brake bleeding (gravity, two person you-pump-i-turn & pressure bleed) I will always do a pressure bleed whenever possible.
 
ok! so how do i do the gravity bleed? the car must be level? im doing fornt end, and read the car must be level, not front end jacked p..true???
i saw 2 gravity bleed vids, one was into a conatiner with no fluid, and hose elevated, up, then ddown into a container. another left the hose down and into a container..which would be the correct method?
 
Are the bleeder screws at the top of the calipers? If not, you need to swap sides with the calipers, a common rookie mistake.
 
Originally Posted By: scurvy
Find a buddy with a pressure bleeder or get a spare master cylinder cap and a clean/new bug sprayer to make a $25 DIY pressure bleeder. Google DIY pressure bleeder if you need actual instructions.

Having done all three methods of brake bleeding (gravity, two person you-pump-i-turn & pressure bleed) I will always do a pressure bleed whenever possible.


+1

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...rue#Post2438073
 
Originally Posted By: ziggy
oh! and should/would i leave the master cyclinder cap off? or on, doing gravity bleeding?


It will go faster with the cap off or cracked open so air can enter.

If you gravity bleed, put a loop (concave down) in the hose from bleeder to the bottle. Connect hose to bleeder, guide hose upward for about 2-3 inches in a loop, then bring hose end down into bottle.
 
With multiple attempts with different bleeding techniques, you probably have a mechanical problem. The master cyl is possibly faulty. It may have been pressed too far when dry and disrupted a seal. If you see wetness outside, it is leaking.

There is no need to have any fluid in a bottle with a gravity bleed [initially]. What for? Looks?
And none in any other type of bleeding, either.
If performed right, there is no need at all.
 
I'm glad that I have Mityvac 7201 to bleed the brake. Bought it to do oil change in the E430, then used it to do ATF, PSF and brake. The purchase cost was reasonable at $60-65 8 years ago, it already paid for itself 4-5 years ago. I think it is the most valued tool I have.
 
Originally Posted By: ziggy
oh! and should/would i leave the master cyclinder cap off? or on, doing gravity bleeding?


While gravity bleeding, have your cap unscrewed so that air can enter the tank.. otherwise it can airlock.
 
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