On a 5 door impreza, so not a lot to cover. But it's loud as [censored] and I'm just wondering how much it'd cost to sound deaden it: completely and maybe like the front half of the car only(to see what it's like instead of committing completely). Anyone have any idea?
How much is sound deadening going to cost?
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I have done several of my own vehicles with very good success. In materials I usually spend $100 to $200 depending on how involved I want to get. It is rather labor intensive, not necessarily difficult, just time consuming. I have no idea what a shop would charge but I would think $300 to $500 would seem reasonable depending on the product used and how extensive of a job they did.
Is it going to make a large difference in an extremely loud car? I have to have the radio almost all the way up to hear it perfectly when I'm going 70.
Yes, it will make a difference.
My previous truck had NO sound deadening from the factory and Dynamat Xtreme helped out with noise a lot, and I only put it in the doors.
There is another brand that is more highly recommended, but I can't remember the name off the top of my head.
Start with the doors and continue adding as needed. Maybe just doing the doors would be enough to make a big difference. If that doesn't cut it you can move on to the floor, trunk, etc. I would plan on spending at least $100 and probably more.
What kind of noise are you dealing with? Road noise, wind noise, engine/exhaust noise?
My previous truck had NO sound deadening from the factory and Dynamat Xtreme helped out with noise a lot, and I only put it in the doors.
There is another brand that is more highly recommended, but I can't remember the name off the top of my head.
Start with the doors and continue adding as needed. Maybe just doing the doors would be enough to make a big difference. If that doesn't cut it you can move on to the floor, trunk, etc. I would plan on spending at least $100 and probably more.
What kind of noise are you dealing with? Road noise, wind noise, engine/exhaust noise?
I have used both stuff from raamat and second skin audio. I spent 8 years running install bays for both CC and best buy.
Never ever buy dynamat, they have way too much mark up for something so simple. We used to sell door kits for $100 they are even more now and the employee cost was $33.
Their customer service is also garbage, one of the reps I delt with was terrible to me. I would never give them any more money.
Both the guys from second skin ( ant ) and the guy who owns raam audio (Rick ?) were very good to me in helping out with custom installs.
Never ever buy dynamat, they have way too much mark up for something so simple. We used to sell door kits for $100 they are even more now and the employee cost was $33.
Their customer service is also garbage, one of the reps I delt with was terrible to me. I would never give them any more money.
Both the guys from second skin ( ant ) and the guy who owns raam audio (Rick ?) were very good to me in helping out with custom installs.
A box of raammat (37.5 sq ft) and ensolite cost me about $120 or so with shipping. Good value. This takes care of vibration damper and closed cell foam. However, the vibration damper does not stop road noise. It only lowers vibration (which is still good, if you need to reduce vibration caused by audio speakers). To block noise, you need to put a layer of vibration damper, ccf, and the mass loaded vinyl (MLV) on top. You can get MLV from second skin or from sounddeadenershowdown.com (there are also some good notes there)
I've been told to try putting sound deadner first in the wheelwells. On the outside of the car, that is. My Camry has it there. No idea on how much work that is to do, and what could get trapped behind it; but it's a pretty easy spot to start with. Then maybe the doors.
One side thought: how old are the tires? I've changed at least two sets of tires on my VW before they hit the wear bars, only because the noise was driving me nuts.
I drove my parent's Forester (2004) recently, just to diagnose a bad brake pad; and was shocked at how loud it was... Purely engine noise, didn't get up to highway speeds.
One side thought: how old are the tires? I've changed at least two sets of tires on my VW before they hit the wear bars, only because the noise was driving me nuts.
I drove my parent's Forester (2004) recently, just to diagnose a bad brake pad; and was shocked at how loud it was... Purely engine noise, didn't get up to highway speeds.
Has anyone used or have any input on the process from sounddeadenershowdown.com?
Sounddeadenershowdown is excellent. Customer service and materials is top notch. I've been using their products for several years. I've also used Second Skin. Raammat also gets good reviews. Those are the 3 I'd spend money at.
Don at sounddeadenershowdown will provide personal assistance if you tell him your issue/goal. It won't be easy, nor cheap to make a difference.
Don at sounddeadenershowdown will provide personal assistance if you tell him your issue/goal. It won't be easy, nor cheap to make a difference.
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Where's the best place to start placing mat(s) to reduce road noise?
Dynamat and other expensive stuff is more for loud sound systems.
You can effectively insulate a car from outside noise with jute or other carpet backing, construction adhesive, and duct tape.
Even a layer or two of hardwood floor underlayment is good - a roll is $25-50.
Helps a lot, but not perfect.
You can effectively insulate a car from outside noise with jute or other carpet backing, construction adhesive, and duct tape.
Even a layer or two of hardwood floor underlayment is good - a roll is $25-50.
Helps a lot, but not perfect.
Originally Posted By: Grant11
On a 5 door impreza, so not a lot to cover. But it's loud as [censored] and I'm just wondering how much it'd cost to sound deaden it: completely and maybe like the front half of the car only(to see what it's like instead of committing completely). Anyone have any idea?
Do check the tires...it's amazing how much racket a seemingly good tire can produce...and if the tires have feathered tread or an aggressive tread or tread cupping, it's even worse. Some high performance tires are bad for noise. Tire Rack can be a good source to see buyer feedback.
Make sure you don't have a hole in the firewall where various things (cables, electrical, etc) go through. That can let in a *bunch* of noise from a seemingly tiny opening. Also, make sure there isn't an air leak from poor weatherstripping or misaligned doors.
I've used B-Quiet which I got on Ebay, with good results.
Start with the trunk floor and under the back seat. You may have noticed the car was quieter with a load of passengers and luggage?
The doors are next, for sure. Some have had success above the headliner, but I've not gone that far.
If the car is a hatchback, they tend to be noiser than sedans, as the removable rear parcel shelf doesn't do as much to prevent noise transmission as a full rear seat more fixed parcel shelf.
In my experience through the years (and I used the roofing felt idea, too, back when) you don't have to cover every square inch. Just enough to dampen the sound and add mass to the panel.
The $200 +/- figure is about what I've spent. But it is rewarding, though.
On a 5 door impreza, so not a lot to cover. But it's loud as [censored] and I'm just wondering how much it'd cost to sound deaden it: completely and maybe like the front half of the car only(to see what it's like instead of committing completely). Anyone have any idea?
Do check the tires...it's amazing how much racket a seemingly good tire can produce...and if the tires have feathered tread or an aggressive tread or tread cupping, it's even worse. Some high performance tires are bad for noise. Tire Rack can be a good source to see buyer feedback.
Make sure you don't have a hole in the firewall where various things (cables, electrical, etc) go through. That can let in a *bunch* of noise from a seemingly tiny opening. Also, make sure there isn't an air leak from poor weatherstripping or misaligned doors.
I've used B-Quiet which I got on Ebay, with good results.
Start with the trunk floor and under the back seat. You may have noticed the car was quieter with a load of passengers and luggage?
The doors are next, for sure. Some have had success above the headliner, but I've not gone that far.
If the car is a hatchback, they tend to be noiser than sedans, as the removable rear parcel shelf doesn't do as much to prevent noise transmission as a full rear seat more fixed parcel shelf.
In my experience through the years (and I used the roofing felt idea, too, back when) you don't have to cover every square inch. Just enough to dampen the sound and add mass to the panel.
The $200 +/- figure is about what I've spent. But it is rewarding, though.
Never had passengers or luggage. One other question, is adding sound deadening going to increase weight significantly? It's already dangerously slow accelerating, it'd be impossible/deadly to get on a busy road if you'd slow it down 10% more.
Originally Posted By: Grant11
Never had passengers or luggage. One other question, is adding sound deadening going to increase weight significantly? It's already dangerously slow accelerating, it'd be impossible/deadly to get on a busy road if you'd slow it down 10% more.
It wouldn't add more than 30-40 lbs, from my experience, tops. Besides, you'll be so much happier it won't matter much if it did
Never had passengers or luggage. One other question, is adding sound deadening going to increase weight significantly? It's already dangerously slow accelerating, it'd be impossible/deadly to get on a busy road if you'd slow it down 10% more.
It wouldn't add more than 30-40 lbs, from my experience, tops. Besides, you'll be so much happier it won't matter much if it did
I'd say there are some very good suggestions, both with Raammat and Don from this site have a ton of great information out there. I used Raammat and closed-cell foam I got from Rick, who was incredibly helpful, and MLV I sourced locally (it's really expensive to ship).
I spend about $300.00 on materials, going off of memory. I also spend about 2 week of evenings and 2 full weekends to do the job. I hate to think how much this would cost, but it would have to be a couple grand to pay someone to do, since I removed the entire interior of the car, all the door panels/roof panels, etc. There's no quick way to do this--it takes a lot of time.
As soon as anyone sets foot in the car who hasn't previously ridden in it, they comment immediately on it, almost like something's wrong. It's limo quiet, almost startlingly so. The nice thing is that I don't need crazy power to drive the sound system, and I typically don't even need to turn it up very loudly. I cant talk to people in the 3rd row if I ever have passengers back there. Overall, it's been a great investment of my time, since I go on a lot of road trips and I like to listen to music...and as they say, a speaker only sounds as good as the room in which you're listening. As cars go, I have a pretty awesome room.
It's a huge time commitment to do it all the way, but for me it's worth it. At a minimum, I'd do the front doors, front floor and the fenders and hood.
Total of materials added about 55 lbs. I'm pretty skinny, and so is my wife, so I figure we're still coming out ahead!
I spend about $300.00 on materials, going off of memory. I also spend about 2 week of evenings and 2 full weekends to do the job. I hate to think how much this would cost, but it would have to be a couple grand to pay someone to do, since I removed the entire interior of the car, all the door panels/roof panels, etc. There's no quick way to do this--it takes a lot of time.
As soon as anyone sets foot in the car who hasn't previously ridden in it, they comment immediately on it, almost like something's wrong. It's limo quiet, almost startlingly so. The nice thing is that I don't need crazy power to drive the sound system, and I typically don't even need to turn it up very loudly. I cant talk to people in the 3rd row if I ever have passengers back there. Overall, it's been a great investment of my time, since I go on a lot of road trips and I like to listen to music...and as they say, a speaker only sounds as good as the room in which you're listening. As cars go, I have a pretty awesome room.
It's a huge time commitment to do it all the way, but for me it's worth it. At a minimum, I'd do the front doors, front floor and the fenders and hood.
Total of materials added about 55 lbs. I'm pretty skinny, and so is my wife, so I figure we're still coming out ahead!
Originally Posted By: Grant11
Is it going to make a large difference in an extremely loud car? I have to have the radio almost all the way up to hear it perfectly when I'm going 70.
Crutchfield measured ambient SPL in a F-150 as they installed Dynamat onto various surfaces in the truck. They had a 9 dB drop on smooth pavement with Dynamat on the doors, floor, roof, and hood. Subjectively, a halving of road noise. Worth reading:
http://www.crutchfield.com/learn/car-stereo-proving-ground-pt-4.html
Is it going to make a large difference in an extremely loud car? I have to have the radio almost all the way up to hear it perfectly when I'm going 70.
Crutchfield measured ambient SPL in a F-150 as they installed Dynamat onto various surfaces in the truck. They had a 9 dB drop on smooth pavement with Dynamat on the doors, floor, roof, and hood. Subjectively, a halving of road noise. Worth reading:
http://www.crutchfield.com/learn/car-stereo-proving-ground-pt-4.html
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