2008 Pontiac Grand Prix V6 what oil?

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Originally Posted By: Ram01
I have a 2004 grand prix GTP and I use pp 5w30 until the change oil light comes on and don't burn no oil inbetween changes

Researching the 04-08 era 3.8L GM V6, there is a fair amount of complaints regarding excessive oil consumption problems.

Common theme is..
1) prone to coked rings at low miles
2) factory PCV hose/assy kink from day 1. (TSB)
3) factory exhaust valve seals improperly seated from day 1. (TSB) Causes uneven wear, increased oil consumption over time.

So, PP is preventing 1, and you apparently have none of the other issues. Thumbs up for PP.
 
Originally Posted By: dave1251
I am not impressed on the new SN oils from Chevron. Unless we can get some extended drain UOA's.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2253015&page=1


I question the validity of the VOA even though I'm the one who got it done. If chevron/havoline oils are now the same, blackstone either messed up or PQIA was off on their voas. I'm more willing to lean torwards a blackstone error on the moly numbers for the havoline. It seems when these voa were done the two oils were not the same unless there was a different forumlation for the 5w/10w-30 oils.

If the VOA I posted was correct, I'm not too impressed either.

http://www.pqiamerica.com/testresultssep2011page2.html

http://www.pqiamerica.com/November%202011%20samples/testresultsnovbatch2%2810W-30%292011.html
 
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2007 Grand Prix GT (supercharged)here, 89,000 mi.

Any quality 5w30 will keep this car happy. Use any oil you wish within reason; yours may still be )under warranty (if you purchased from a GM dealer) as is mine (for a few more months/miles).
Changing oil today - PP 5/30 with Fram XtdGuard (the good one).
I've used it all - PP, PU, RP, QSUD, M1EP, Synpower.

OLM is roughly 10k, I do OC every 6,000 mi. I use a 1/2 qrt over 6,000.
Enjoy the new ride. Last of the GP's.

At your mileage I would change the trans fluid and consider replacing coolant this year or next. Check your PS fluid. It is so hard to get to most places don't check it (cause they can't find it (rear of engine, by the passenger side firewall).
 
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Thanks PhillyJoe! With you on the XG, longtime user. Looking forward to the Ultra appearing at WM. Why the change to PP from PU?
 
They're all good to be honest. QSUD is probably the best bang for the buck at $20. PP is $24, PU, SYN and M1EP are around $27.

I used PP 5w30 in my daughter's 3.4 Grand Am 6 weeks ago (which loses about a quart between changes), it is still at the top, so PP got the nod for mine this time as well.

I use synthetic because with the Eaton blower I generate a little more engine heat. With a 6k OCI, I know I don't even need synthetic but from day one with this car I figured I can do a DIY synthetic for a quik-lube conventional price.
 
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
At 6k, what % was left on the OLM?


Yesterday's change was at 5,750 miles and the OLM said 47% left. Rule of thumb is 10% for every 1,000 miles. YMMV.
 
Originally Posted By: xxch4osxx
You have any pics of this car?

whip.jpg


No tint, blacked out lights and black offset rims yet. Considering just painting those rims dark. Not sure about that.
crazy.gif
 
It's a limited number, but the 3800 Series III can have issues with rod bearing/throwing a rod. But it's pretty rare, and much more likely if the car is being beat on hard with say a turbo or supercharger feeding it. Under normal driving conditions, I would say it's no more likely to throw a rod than series II. I had no issue buying my Grand Prix series III.
 
Most will never have a real problem with it and it's definitely not something to lose sleep over, but it does happen.

Being aware of it is a reason not to go playing around with the thinnest oil you can find or revving the **** out of it just for fun.
 
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals

No tint, blacked out lights and black offset rims yet. Considering just painting those rims dark. Not sure about that.
crazy.gif



What do you mean by "offset rims?" I hope you're not getting rims other than the factory offset. It's important
to maintain the factory offset for the health of your wheel bearings and other suspension components.
 
Observations after 200 miles:

No vibrations, no shakes as AC and fan cycle on and off at a light in drive. No ticks, cant tell its running idling. Much better than I'm used to. Weather has been 90-95F here since purchase, may be 100F today. Temp gauge just below middle, goes to middle when idling in this weather. Transmission "clunks" in and out of gear. More than I'm used to. During operation, transmission shifts smooth.

1200 on the oil, its dark already. Just off full. The used car dealer offered 2 free 3k oil changes, will use them for cleanup before switching to synthetic. Wondering if prior owner was using the OLM, stretching the interval. Its either the engine is dirty. Or..these engines are hard on oil.
 
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