Carbon clean out?

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Ok. My Dad's blazer, 4.3L, 127K, has to have some serious carbon deposits in the combustion chambers. Simply put, it pings so bad that I'm practically afraid to drive it now. My Dad, per the retarted advice of his retarted mechanic, will only run 85 and sometimes 87 octane. I keep telling him that octane requirement will increase with the age of an engine unless you take the heads off and straight up clean the carbon out by hand. That's not an option with him at this point. He had some "carbon blast" done by the retarted mechanic, for $150
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The ping is worse now! It pings hard with super unleaded 91 octane. What is the best additive to clean carbon out of combustion chambers that's easy to use, like a gas additive. I don't want to sea-foam the beast because you have to let it sit in the cylinders etc. overnight and just getting to the plugs on his truck requires taking the front wheels off and all kinds of other junk. Screw that. Any advice? Gracious
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I think there is another version of Seafoam which you can just pour in the tank and get good results. Some f-body guys pour it slowly into their brake booster line and it gets sucked into the engine and makes a big huge smokey mess. But they find it works well!
 
Try steps 1 and 3 from my write-up below. If it still pings then do all of the steps.


Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner Write-up.
Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner
(Cleaning carbon build-up from engine)

Parts Needed:
-1 can of Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner\2 cans if performing STEP 2 (available at local Chrysler dealer...$7 per can)
-New set of spark plugs(optional)
-Correct amount of new engine oil(ONLY if performing STEP 2)
-New oil filter(ONLY if performing STEP 2)
-Toothbrush
-Clean rag
-Long thin tube(I bought a funnel that came with a long thin tube connected to it at Pep Boys...will come in handy in STEP 2)
-(1) Bottle of Redline Complete Fuel System Cleaner(PepBoys, Autozone)

NOTE: Total time should be 60-90 minutes. This includes waiting time.

*If performing STEP 2, I recommend doing this entire procedure at the time of your next oil change only because I advise changing engine oil and filter afterwards.

Also, before doing anything, a good idea is to first loosen up the spark plugs and then re-tighten them back ONLY to a snug fit(not too tight). This will make life a lot easier when removing the spark plugs in STEP 2.

1). Cleaning carbon from throttle body, intake manifold, combustion chamber and valves:

Start the engine and let it idle or take the Jeep out for a drive until it reaches normal operating temperature(engine should be hot). Turn off engine. Remove the air hose from the throttle body. With engine OFF, spray some Mopar CCC onto throttle plate(not too much) and linkage and clean off carbon using a small tooth brush(make sure you clean the bottom of the throttle plate also). Wipe off dissolved carbon with clean rag……should shine like new. Start the engine(make sure it's hot) and spray the entire can of Mopar CCC into the throttle body….the intake manifold vacuum will suck it in. You may have smoke coming out of the tailpipe during this, and your idle may drop or even try to stall…..this is normal. It’s important NOT to rev the engine during this but to keep a steady idle around 1000-1200 RPM by controlling the idle with your hand on the throttle body spring pack(a glove may come in handy since the throttle spring pack may be hot). When can is empty, shut off the engine IMMEDIATELY. Reconnect the air hose to the throttle body.
*If you are NOT performing STEP 2, then wait 20 minutes before performing STEP3.


2). Cleaning carbon from the pistons:

Remove the spark plugs and spray half a can of Mopar CCC(divided evenly) into the cylinders through the open spark plug holes. If you have trouble spraying into one of the plug holes, try using a funnel or small tube to guide the cleaner into the plug hole or else try to aim as best you could. Reinstall plugs then give the engine a few QUICK cranks(a couple of seconds each time) to mix up the cleaner(DO NOT TRY TO START THE ENGINE WITH FLUID IN THE CYLINDERS). Wait 30 minutes then remove the spark plugs. QUICKLY crank the engine over a couple of times(again, a couple of seconds each time) to eject any excess cleaner out of the open plug holes to help prevent possible hydro-lock. Might be a bit messy but important. Reinstall original plugs.


3). Start the engine(may need to fire it up a several times). Once started, DO NOT let it just sit and idle or else the carbon will just re-cook in your engine. Rather, rev the engine to 3000-3500 RPM's 10-15 times repeatidly. Again, don't be surprised if you see A LOT of smoke...it's normal. Take the Jeep out and drive it hard for a few minutes. This will do a good job of cleaning out any excess carbon from the engine. Afterwards, I stopped at a gas station to refill and pour in a bottle of Redline Complete Fuel System Cleaner. This does a nice job of making sure everything is nice and clean(not absolutely necessary but I thought it would be a good idea).

4). Install new spark plugs if you decided to get a new set. If STEP2 was peformed then change engine oil and filter since the cleaner may have passed by the piston rings.

*Result...Clean throttle body, intake manifold, valves, combustion chamber and pistons.

*Bonus*...NO MORE PINGING!(unless you have another issue).


jeepzj please copy/paste from other forum,no direct links.Mark

[ August 16, 2003, 03:49 PM: Message edited by: rugerman1 ]
 
When I bought my 93 grand Cherokee 4 years ago it would ping on 90 octane gas (highest available, and available in only one station in the southern half of the country). When I started importing Chevron Techron I tried it in a tank and it eliminated the ping totally. I ran it a second time and then noticed on a trip where I could only by 80 octane gas that it didn't ping on 80 octane. Never again bought premium gas. Saved $25 a tank in gas, increased mileage, and has never pinged again. Last year when I replaced the head (to change to the heavier valve springs on the 97 model) the mechanic could not believe how clean the head and pistons were.
 
You'll find that there are a number of fuel additives that work as widman suggests, one is the techron, Schaeffers 131 neutra, lucas fuel additive and I've heard that the amsoil PI does a good job but know from my own experience.

Just about any one will be the best thing to start with before going through all those other steps. Do a search for those on this board and see what I'm talking about.

bob

[ August 16, 2003, 08:13 PM: Message edited by: BOBISTHEOILGUY ]
 
Does your Dads 4.3 have central port injection. It sounds like his popets are carboned up! I think I would call odis and order a gallon of Fuel Power and use it as labled maybe stronger!! If you decide to go with 131 I would probably buy a case of it and use every fill up. You can not expect this to go away with an in tank additive over night!!!

If he has CPI unit you will probably need to replace the CPI unit or have it professionaly cleaned buy dealer!!!

I have had good results with Lucas and Redline products!!! If you can find a Jober store the 32 once bottle of Lucas Fuel system concentrate is about $7-$8.

If it is carbon on pistons the lube control on top of piston soak sounds like the most economical way to go!!
 
John, what do you mean by his poppets being carboned up? Does that mean it;s running lean and contributing to the detonation or something? His truck has Multi port by the way; it's a 98.

I added a can of BG44K yesterday before I went fishing, which gave it a good solid 3-4 hours total of non-stop running and just that seemed to make it a tad better on 87 octane. 91 octane produces a ton less gas milege, so that's the main reason my Dad won't use it.

But occasionally the ping is so bad, you can just feel the igntion timing go away completely, and then the temp gauge will start to rise a bit in the mountains.
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I'm just going to try two more consecutive bottle of Techron after this, since it's basically dilluted 44K and $15 bucks cheaper.
 
I had great luck using "Fuel Power" in my 91 Caprice (former cop car, 232k miles)I am sure it had many of hours idling time on it before I bought it and the carbon had built up. Before using Fuel Power it prefered 91 octane but I would run 89 most of the time to save money.

After running Fuel Power in almost every tank for the last 8k miles I can run 87 octane with less spark knock then I had with 89.

One thing about this stuff, it even cleaned the fuel tank out so my fuel filter almost plugged last week.

I don't have any miracle claims about increased mileage but it did clean out my fuel system and the carbon deposits.
 
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