It has been suggested to me to add a bottle of this to my oil and let the engine idle for 30 minutes, then drain the oil. I'm trying to control an oil consumption issue. And I'm going from synthetic to Dino because of cost. I'm adding a qt every 1,000 miles. I've been through the ARX treatments. Would you guys recomend this or not?
Berryman Chemtool in oil
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I've seen Berryman's Chemtool eat thru the can it was in and then eat thru shelve it was sitting on. I would think it's way to harsh to put in your crank case. Auto-rx should work much much more gently and and therefore safely.
I have used B-12 since 1991 and have never had a problem. It is harsh so follow the direction to the leter. I belive that most applications recomend 1/2 pint not whole pint and that 15 minutes is the recomended interval. This should be done at fast idle with no load. I try to stay away from harsh solvents as much as possable any more. It does work and I have never had any damage from it. ARX does such a good job I doubt you will see much difference with b-12.
I bow to JohnBrownings expertise. He's the man. Maybe my problem is instead of using it since 91, I just let it sit on the shelf
[ August 07, 2003, 11:35 PM: Message edited by: RussellA ]
[ August 07, 2003, 11:35 PM: Message edited by: RussellA ]
you hang out at the toyota section on ORC don't you? i saw your post over there.
Rando something went wrong with Auto-Rx application, if you did not get results, perhaps a missed step or point not clear. read the below and if there is a mistake e-mail me direct at
[email protected] and i will send you Auto-Rx at N/C and lets try again·
Why use ‘non-synthetic’ oil when cleaning your engine with Auto-Rx?
Petrol or non-synthetic oil (simple additive package) is formulated to work with existing seal material; i.e. Buna rubber and silicone.
Non-synthetic oil is more effective, faster, and less costly to use as a carrier for Auto-Rx and for a rinse for removing liquefied contaminants.
Auto-Rx chemistry works in engines (gas/diesel), transmissions, power steering units, differentials as it is a natural chemistry formulated to clean metal and rejuvenate seals by cleaning (not swelling) them. Auto-Rx works on ratios clearly defined by the viscosity of the host oil used in transporting Auto-Rx.
Engine is 2 ounces per quart of oil (motor oil will always have viscosity calling for this ratio) – gas or diesel.
Automatic transmission is 6 ounces only in any automatic transmission. Transmission oil is base hydraulic oil with a viscosity rating of ISO 68 plus additive package. Auto-Rx ratio of 6 ounces will clean unit and rejuvenate seals (if seals are not ripped or torn). Auto-Rx is a one-time application due to the thin viscosity of base oil.
Manual transmission is 1 ounce of Auto-Rx to each quart of transmission oil.
Power steering unit is 1 ounce of Auto-Rx in unit to clean. 2 ounces of Auto-Rx if power steering unit leaks.
Differential is 2 ounces per quart of gear oil (80-90 wt.).
All other needed steps to complete application of Auto-Rx are on the website at www.auto-rx.com (engines) and www.auto-rx.net (transmissions) or e-mail any questions to [email protected].
· Why don’t you recommend ‘synthetic’ oil for Auto-Rx application?
Synthetic oil’s use a “complex additive package” in there formulation. It is not conducive in assisting Auto-Rx in stopping leaks. Auto-Rx must “fight” this complex additive package for space on engine’s metal to start cleaning process. Auto-Rx procedure takes longer, cannot rejuvenate seals, and the cost of synthetic oil makes cleaning engines not cost effective.
[email protected] and i will send you Auto-Rx at N/C and lets try again·
Why use ‘non-synthetic’ oil when cleaning your engine with Auto-Rx?
Petrol or non-synthetic oil (simple additive package) is formulated to work with existing seal material; i.e. Buna rubber and silicone.
Non-synthetic oil is more effective, faster, and less costly to use as a carrier for Auto-Rx and for a rinse for removing liquefied contaminants.
Auto-Rx chemistry works in engines (gas/diesel), transmissions, power steering units, differentials as it is a natural chemistry formulated to clean metal and rejuvenate seals by cleaning (not swelling) them. Auto-Rx works on ratios clearly defined by the viscosity of the host oil used in transporting Auto-Rx.
Engine is 2 ounces per quart of oil (motor oil will always have viscosity calling for this ratio) – gas or diesel.
Automatic transmission is 6 ounces only in any automatic transmission. Transmission oil is base hydraulic oil with a viscosity rating of ISO 68 plus additive package. Auto-Rx ratio of 6 ounces will clean unit and rejuvenate seals (if seals are not ripped or torn). Auto-Rx is a one-time application due to the thin viscosity of base oil.
Manual transmission is 1 ounce of Auto-Rx to each quart of transmission oil.
Power steering unit is 1 ounce of Auto-Rx in unit to clean. 2 ounces of Auto-Rx if power steering unit leaks.
Differential is 2 ounces per quart of gear oil (80-90 wt.).
All other needed steps to complete application of Auto-Rx are on the website at www.auto-rx.com (engines) and www.auto-rx.net (transmissions) or e-mail any questions to [email protected].
· Why don’t you recommend ‘synthetic’ oil for Auto-Rx application?
Synthetic oil’s use a “complex additive package” in there formulation. It is not conducive in assisting Auto-Rx in stopping leaks. Auto-Rx must “fight” this complex additive package for space on engine’s metal to start cleaning process. Auto-Rx procedure takes longer, cannot rejuvenate seals, and the cost of synthetic oil makes cleaning engines not cost effective.
I might suggest that you have a mechanical issue that will not be fixed with flushing - especially if you no sucess with the Auto-Rx himile treatment.
Sorry Frank, but the Auto-RX did not help with the oil consumption in our Saturn. The original dose did give it more power though. It did seem to clean a old Civic though, junk in the filter after 1000 miles in there. The B-12 did cut the consumption from 1Q per 1000 miles to at least half that now. Believe this not to represent a failure of the Auto-RX just not designed to free stuck rings, more aggressive measures needed. Maybe soon we can totally clean out this area of the motor.
Frank, I'm sure I followed your instructions on the ARX right. And I used Mobil Drive Clean 10W30 for the applications. I was still using oil during the treatments and had to add a qt around 1,000 miles. And then I went to Mobil 1 10W30 because I wanted to try a synthetic and most people here seem to use it or think It's pretty good stuff. It used as much if not more. I didn't even run it 3,000 miles. I even added a qt of 15W50 to see if that would help. It didn't. I then went ahead a tried the Redline 10W30 cause I had already ordered it and was planning on using it after the Mobil 1 trial. Consumption was about the same. I changed it 8/7 and tried the Castrol 10W40 High Mileage. So we'll see if there's any difference. With all these changes I have kept up with the 3oz ARX maintance dose. I'm getting ready to add a header from LC Engineering this week and while it's at the shop I'm going to do a compression check. Really I'm stumped here because the truck runs very well and it's as clean as a pin all around the engine and underneath. I've never seen the slightest hint of any color of smoke anytime. I've pulled the plugs and checked them for fouling but they were clean. And I don't see anything wrong with the coolant, as far as oil getting in there for some reason. I am going to flush out the green stuff and put in the red Toyota coolant. Maybe I'll find something there. Hopefully, the compression check will reveal something. If not, I guess a qt of oil every 2 weeks is still cheaper than a rebuild, although I don't like it very much. It's a Toyota 22RE and I know guys that have 200,000 miles and never use a drop and I'm at 130,000 which isn't alot for these engines. I will keep you posted. I really had hoped if the seals or rings where bad, the ARX would have helped more. I don't know what else It could be without seeing a difference in the performance of the engine. I really do appreciate your concern and most of all your suggestions. My application went as follows; 1 bottle ARX in dino oil for 1,000 miles. Changed oil and filter and ran dino for 2,000 miles. Changed filter and added 1 bottle of ARX and ran for 1,000 miles. Thats when I started with the Mobil 1. If you see a mistake let me know and I'll try again.
Rando,
Your engine is simply worn ...the only way you will control oil consumption at this point is to use a heavier 40wt or 50wt oil in mild to hot weather.
I'd suggest running the Mobil 1, 15w-50 straight and see how that does. You'll take a bit of a mileage hit, but consumption should be reduced. Other options would be the Redline or Amsoil 10w-40 synthetics. If you want to try a conventional petro oil, go with a 15w-40 like Delvac 1300 or Delo 400.
TooSlick
Your engine is simply worn ...the only way you will control oil consumption at this point is to use a heavier 40wt or 50wt oil in mild to hot weather.
I'd suggest running the Mobil 1, 15w-50 straight and see how that does. You'll take a bit of a mileage hit, but consumption should be reduced. Other options would be the Redline or Amsoil 10w-40 synthetics. If you want to try a conventional petro oil, go with a 15w-40 like Delvac 1300 or Delo 400.
TooSlick
Tooslick, I'm sure your probably right about the engine being worn, although you wouldn't suspect it from the way the truck performs. I would imagine the previous owner wasn't as particular as I am with this truck. My plan is to see how this Castrol 10W40 HighMileage does, then I will try the Delvac 1300 15W40 and go from there. I will try anything that you guys suggest here because I value your experence in this field. At the same time maybe I should start saving for a spring rebuild. Rando
I was a Tech. for 12 years. I know I have been over exposed to solvents!! I wish I had known then what I know now. I am really anal about keeping my kids away from any chemicals. I figure it is too late for me. I am sure that my body fat is so full of chemicals from solvents it could be used as a cleaner/lubricant right from my love handles!!!
If you ever get liposuctioned save me a quart of it and I'll put it in my crankcase and see what it does.
Russell, I had no idea back in 1991 that it was so harsh on seals. I did not know then what I know now! SO I used it and not once had a problem. It worked just as well for me as Amsoils flush at a lot less cost. Auto-Rx did not exsist back then and it was B-12, Amsoil, or 1 quart of Kerosine. I still have two of the vechiles thatI used this in. Neither vechiles has had seal problems yet. If B-12 was used freq. then I am sure their would be issues.
I initialy used it to remove carbon from valves before re-grinding them. Then I used it to clean other varnished and sludges parts dureing disasembly. It worked so good I decided to give it a try as an oil flush. Like all solvent based products moderation is the key. I would never recomend someone do this every oil change.
I also use their aerosol can b-12 for all kinds of cleaning. Firearms, Brake, Throtle bodies, carberators....Anyplace you have carbon or varnish. Just be mindful that this is full of harsh solvents that are known to cause cancer!
Bowing is out of fashion these days!!
I initialy used it to remove carbon from valves before re-grinding them. Then I used it to clean other varnished and sludges parts dureing disasembly. It worked so good I decided to give it a try as an oil flush. Like all solvent based products moderation is the key. I would never recomend someone do this every oil change.
Rando Have you done a dry wet compression test? This would tell you rings or valves. With the milage you have on a toyota engine I would guess the valves. Probably have a worn valve seal somewhere letting in gobs of oil. Just a guess but the dry wet compression would tell you where to go next.
I'm planning to have a compression test done next week. I will keep you posted on the outcome for sure. Since I last posted I've changed the oil and went to the Castrol High Mileage 10W40 w/Toyoto OEM filter. I've only driven a couple hundred miles but it seems to run smoother and I definately have higher oil pressure. I should be able to tell how the consumption issue is going by the end of the week. I should have 1,000 miles on it by then. We'll see?
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