91 Integra w/ b18b bogging and power loss below 3k

[Lead Shoes]

I bought the car on the cheap, all of the work was done by the PO who took great care of it but like me could never find the solution to the bogging.

Its a 91 Integra LS with a b18b swap with 150k miles approx, not sure if it they did the hydro tranny swap or not I haven't had the chance to get under it because its pretty lowered.

It has less power than my d16 below 3k rpm, it runs great cold, but after a minute the bucking and bogging begins, it feels like the motor is rocking back and forth in the bay when it bogs, and the exhaust smells bad like its running rich or lean, but after 3k rpm its like hitting Vtec (on a non vtec motor) and it pulls great, I am at a total loss on what it could be.

I just double checked to make sure there were no vacuum leaks, and that they were routed properly because it is a swap after all, the PO replaced the cap, rotor, fuel filter, plugs, and wires. I swapped out the FPR with the one off another B18B that ran great, same ill effects...

I just need some help I don't want to keep throw parts at it blindly, any help is appreciated.....

 

[DemoFly]

Crankshaft position sensor

Just get a new distributor.

 

[chrome]

Might be a good idea to check the relative cam timing on both intake and exhaust cams, and also the timing relative to the crankshaft.

 

[The_Eric]

I think it would be wise to check on what value the temp sensor is reporting. Also, with this being an engine swap, you should check and verify the connectors.

Honda seems to be one of the ones that places interchangeable connectors in close proximity to each other.... It can and has happened. I had a Prelude that had the intake air temp sensor plug swapped with the power steering pressure plug and another with the knock sensor swapped with something else.

 

[vaboom123]

Does the vehicle have the correct ECM for that motor in it? I think the PR4 would work with it. It's been a while since I've dealt with modified hondas.

 

[Lead Shoes]

I was told it is a the orig OBD0 harness with a OBD0 dizzy and the engine is OBD2a, I have not looked at the ecu code.

 

[vaboom123]

If that motor is obd2 then it would need a jumper harness and maybe have a P75 ecu then.

I'm just trying to think of all the options that could be done haha

 

[Lead Shoes]

I will take it out and look tomorrow to be sure...

 

[vaboom123]

I'm pretty sure if the po kept everything OBD0 then all the other components of the old motor were switched over to the OBD2 motor to keep it compatible with OBD0. I think the only wires you'd have to extend a little bit would be for the coolant switch. The original motor had it on the back of the block, and the OBD2 should be on the t-stat housing.

 

[mechtech2]

If it runs good cold, the crank sensor is not the problem.
It is running lean because of a vacuum leak, bad filter or fuel pump, or bad programming.
And with an engine swap, who knows what old parts and systems were mixed to get the final result?