My rod bearings after a HPDE

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Thanks to Bigskye for providing the actual OP spec', I didn't originally catch it; (54-62 psi @ 3,000 rpm).
Assuming you're going to be running M1 0W-40 I suspect your OP will be higher than 62 psi even when the oil is as hot as it ever gets on the street.
If you're planning on tracking the car a lot I would only consider an oil cooler if you're testing the 54 psi minimum OP which of course would only happen if your oil temp's are getting quite high. That may not be a problem for your NA engine unlike the turbos.

Anyway, when you get your car back on the road, PM me with your actual OP figures and we'll take it from there.

Cheers
 
Originally Posted By: ChattZX
Caterham, what do you think about installing an oil cooler?


I would look into getting an oil pan with an increased capacity with trap doors first.

Z32%20oilpan.jpg


That would maybe give a few extra seconds of cornering before the pickup would be exposed. This would also help with cooling. You would have to get a remote mount filter.

For an oil cooler, I would look into SPL's radiator, that includes a built in oil cooler.

Dont forget a lower radiator hard pipe, because the lower radiator hose tends to collapse on the track.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: ChattZX
Will do man. Do you have any personal tips on breaking in a new engine?

I don't recall but did you go all the way with new rings, bores etc?
If you didn't there's nothing special required, if you did there are some very good write-ups on the proper way to set the rings.
But basically you vary the rpm when crusing, increase the maximum rpm limit slowly for the first 2,000 miles. No excessive idling. After 1,500 - 2,000 miles periodically run the engine up to red line under full throttle once it is fully warm of course. I wouldn't consider tracking the car until you have about 5,000 road miles on it.
 
Yeah I went with a full rebuild and nice thats just about the general break in procedure I have heard, just figured I'd ask you to confirm it. Any oil change intervals you recommend during the break in?
 
I'd run a cheap 5W-30 dino for the first 500 miles then drain making note of your OP readings at normal operating temp's.
Assuming you're not going to track the car anytime soon and your OP figures are more than adequate on the 5W-30 dino, for the second oil change I'd likely run a synthetic 0W/5W-30 for a normal OCI of say 5,000 miles.
 
I'm not sure what I'm going to use to break it in, however I'm definitely going with CATERHAM'S suggestion on the M1 0w-40 after break in. I've heard a straight 30 weight is the best for break in due to it not having as many friction modifiers.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: ChattZX
Will do man. Do you have any personal tips on breaking in a new engine?

I don't recall but did you go all the way with new rings, bores etc?
If you didn't there's nothing special required, if you did there are some very good write-ups on the proper way to set the rings.
But basically you vary the rpm when crusing, increase the maximum rpm limit slowly for the first 2,000 miles. No excessive idling. After 1,500 - 2,000 miles periodically run the engine up to red line under full throttle once it is fully warm of course. I wouldn't consider tracking the car until you have about 5,000 road miles on it.

Very useful thread indeed!
Going by the above guidelines, if we consider large industrial power engines (1 MW), 1500-2000 miles equals approx 80-100 hours of operation. Can anyone confirm if in a large off-the-road "fully rebuilt" engine, the new Rings will set properly within the 1st 80-100 hours ?
If yes, how do we confirm that the rings are "setting properly" , and what will indicate that finally setting of the the rings is successfully completed ?

All comments are welcome and actual hands-on experiences are indeed warmly welcomed from all of you experts!
 
You can basically tell if the rings are properly seated if you're not losing any oil aka burning it.
 
Originally Posted By: Bigsyke
Im going up to BIR this weekend for MAP's proving grounds, along with Powercruise @ BIR next month, and will be running either Rotella T6 or something heavier.



You were at Brainerd last weekend? I was too! I was driving the pewter Camaro. I saw lots of 300Z's, which one was yours? Nice weekend, huh?
 
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Originally Posted By: fpracha
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: ChattZX
Will do man. Do you have any personal tips on breaking in a new engine?

I don't recall but did you go all the way with new rings, bores etc?
If you didn't there's nothing special required, if you did there are some very good write-ups on the proper way to set the rings.
But basically you vary the rpm when crusing, increase the maximum rpm limit slowly for the first 2,000 miles. No excessive idling. After 1,500 - 2,000 miles periodically run the engine up to red line under full throttle once it is fully warm of course. I wouldn't consider tracking the car until you have about 5,000 road miles on it.

Very useful thread indeed!
Going by the above guidelines, if we consider large industrial power engines (1 MW), 1500-2000 miles equals approx 80-100 hours of operation. Can anyone confirm if in a large off-the-road "fully rebuilt" engine, the new Rings will set properly within the 1st 80-100 hours ?
If yes, how do we confirm that the rings are "setting properly" , and what will indicate that finally setting of the the rings is successfully completed ?

All comments are welcome and actual hands-on experiences are indeed warmly welcomed from all of you experts!


When I was an engineer at Cummins, our practice in breaking in the large industrial and heavy duty engines was to get them up to rated power as soon as possible after confirming good oil pressure and safe operating temperatures. Our general rule was that if you didn't get to rated power in the first 20 minutes of operation, the liners would glaze, and the rings wouldn't seat properly. High blowby and oil consumption was the result.
 
Originally Posted By: A_Harman
Originally Posted By: fpracha
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: ChattZX
Will do man. Do you have any personal tips on breaking in a new engine?

I don't recall but did you go all the way with new rings, bores etc?
If you didn't there's nothing special required, if you did there are some very good write-ups on the proper way to set the rings.
But basically you vary the rpm when crusing, increase the maximum rpm limit slowly for the first 2,000 miles. No excessive idling. After 1,500 - 2,000 miles periodically run the engine up to red line under full throttle once it is fully warm of course. I wouldn't consider tracking the car until you have about 5,000 road miles on it.

Very useful thread indeed!
Going by the above guidelines, if we consider large industrial power engines (1 MW), 1500-2000 miles equals approx 80-100 hours of operation. Can anyone confirm if in a large off-the-road "fully rebuilt" engine, the new Rings will set properly within the 1st 80-100 hours ?
If yes, how do we confirm that the rings are "setting properly" , and what will indicate that finally setting of the the rings is successfully completed ?

All comments are welcome and actual hands-on experiences are indeed warmly welcomed from all of you experts!


When I was an engineer at Cummins, our practice in breaking in the large industrial and heavy duty engines was to get them up to rated power as soon as possible after confirming good oil pressure and safe operating temperatures. Our general rule was that if you didn't get to rated power in the first 20 minutes of operation, the liners would glaze, and the rings wouldn't seat properly. High blowby and oil consumption was the result.

Many thanks friend for this helpful guideline.
Does it also apply equally to Diesel and Natural Gas fueled engines ?
If we did not do the procedure correctly, is there a definitive method to test for this specific fault (incomplete rings seating), other than a full tear down ?
We would really want to save the cost of tear down and be sure that it is the only solution if we must tear down, by first using some dependable tools you can point us to (before deciding for a tear down). All help welcome!
 
How did you guys come to that conclusion of doing that before 20 minutes of
Running? Did you have issues prior to doing that method?
 
Read up a bit, a hard break in is essential for long life and best performance.

The rotating assembly is either right or wrong, and rings actually seat quite quickly in most engines.

Higher gears at full throttle are best!
 
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Read up a bit, a hard break in is essential for long life and best performance.

The rotating assembly is either right or wrong, and rings actually seat quite quickly in most engines.

Higher gears at full throttle are best!


I've heard of people doing this method before, however they are few and far between. I don't know if I wanna risk it lol.
 
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