Good shear stable oil?

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Hi, I have an old beat up 95 Yukon that burns oil like crazy. It also seems to be shearing the heck out (and then burning) of any non-synthetic oil I put in it. I put in 10w-40 Castrol GTX HM at my last oil change, but have been topping off with 20w-50. I tried some Bardahl's No Smoke and it worked really well for about three days before it was sheared into oblivion. I broke down and spent the cabbage on LOS. Don't judge me! I only put about 8-10 ounces in, but it seems to be working out pretty well so far, but its only been two days. We'll see if it gets sheared as quickly.

Anyway, the point of all this is: What is a good synthetic motor oil that is exceptionally shear stable, and preferably comes in some really thick grades most people would never need? I don't have money for a rebuild, and it wouldn't really be worth it on ths 189k mile beater.

The guy who had it before me knew nothing about cars, and didn't want to learn. I found four different brands and three different grades of motor oil floating around the passenger compartment when I got it. He had half a bottle of 10w-40 super tech, striaght 30 PYB, 10w-30 valvoline, and some other brand that I forget, think it may have been motorcraft 10w-30.

And when I say it burns oil, I mean baaaaad. The first oil I put in it was Castrol GTX 5w-30. It used 1 qt every 80 miles. I drive almost exactly 40 miles a day. When I switched to the GTX HM 10w-40 it slowed to 1 qt every 120miles. now it seems to be more like 1 qt every 150 miles since I started topping off with the 20w-50. Hopefully you can recommend a thicker shear stable full synthetic so I can stop using LOS.
 
OK, hadn't noticed at first that you'd tried 20W50. Not sure what to say. I think the engine is on it's last leg.
 
Red line 10w40
Mobil 1 high mileage 10w40
Mobil 1 0w40 (euro specced oil)
Valvoline maxlife 10w40
Royal purple hps 10w40
Rottella T6 5w40
Almost any HDEO OIL THATS CJ-4 spec.
Could try motorcycle spec.oils like Mobil VR-4 or I hear MOTUL is very stout.

If your gonna use an additive, Id try lubro moly oil saver, heard good things about it recently from bitog members.

Overall it sounds like your engine is on its last leg.
 
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oil burning and oil shearing (in your case) are 2 separate issues.

If you are burning oil to begin with, getting shear-stable oil isn't gonna help.

Your engine is sick..needs mechanical attention that's for sure.

Q.
 
not to sound like a jerk, but if your rig is burning 1 quart every 120-150 miles, I wouldn't bother with a synthetic...Instead stock up on FAR dino or whatever is on clearance and save your money for a new engine or some work on it.

edit: could you clarify if its burning or leaking?
 
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20W-60 or 20W-70. Might be hard to find.

Is your oil leaking onto the ground, or going out the tailpipe?
 
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Originally Posted By: Jeffy_D

Could try motorcycle spec.oils like Mobil VR-4 or I hear MOTUL is very stout.

If your gonna use an additive, Id try lubro moly oil saver, heard good things about it recently from bitog members.

Overall it sounds like your engine is on its last leg.


Yeah it was supposedly rebuilt not too long before he sold it to me. PO was a friend from college, he went and got a job, I went to grad school. He knew I had no car so after he got a new one he gave me his beater. If it was rebuilt then they must have put the rings in wrong.

I've actually been looking into motorcycle oils. Amsoil and Red Line both make 60wt motorcycle oils that look pretty good. Seems like I've heard alot of mixed reviews about Motul om here.
 
Rebuilt? Did they forget to put piston rings on it?

Definitely doesn't sound like shear. Sounds like severe oil burning or its leaking like a sieve somewhere. If you really wanna find something for that, you're officially looking for a bandaid because something is really wrong with that thing.

I'd be buying whatever cheap 20W-50 I could find and be adding stuff like STP or Lucas to it if it was cheap enough to make it so thick it doesn't get used up instantly.

The only oil I can see really working at that rate is basically asphalt.
 
Amsoil it....

Synthetic SAE 60 Motorcycle Oil

Product Code: MCSQT-EA








Synthetic SAE 60 Motorcycle Oil is a premium oil designed for those who demand the absolute best lubrication for their motorcycles. The result of extensive research, it is specially formulated to excel in all areas unique to motorcycles, including high engine RPM, wet-clutch lubrication and more.
 
Originally Posted By: Quest
oil burning and oil shearing (in your case) are 2 separate issues.

If you are burning oil to begin with, getting shear-stable oil isn't gonna help.

Your engine is sick..needs mechanical attention that's for sure.

Q.


Missed this post earlier.

I am very much aware of the difference between burning and shearing. What I am trying to say is that anything with VII in it gets sheared down and then because of it being thin gets past the rings and burnt. I've tried STP and it did nothing. Later after adding back in a few quarts I tried No smoke. That worked for about three days. For three days the oil was noticeably thicker and didn't creep down the dipstick hardly at all. After the third day it started burning faster and faster until it was right back where I started. Right now I've got LOS in there and its seems to be holding, but its only been two days. We'll see how things go. I was hoping I could just put in like an sae60 weight synthetic and not have it thin out. Hopefully minimal LOS or something like it would be needed.
 
Originally Posted By: Gendo
Originally Posted By: Quest
oil burning and oil shearing (in your case) are 2 separate issues.

If you are burning oil to begin with, getting shear-stable oil isn't gonna help.

Your engine is sick..needs mechanical attention that's for sure.

Q.


Missed this post earlier.

I am very much aware of the difference between burning and shearing. What I am trying to say is that anything with VII in it gets sheared down and then because of it being thin gets past the rings and burnt. I've tried STP and it did nothing. Later after adding back in a few quarts I tried No smoke. That worked for about three days. For three days the oil was noticeably thicker and didn't creep down the dipstick hardly at all. After the third day it started burning faster and faster until it was right back where I started. Right now I've got LOS in there and its seems to be holding, but its only been two days. We'll see how things go. I was hoping I could just put in like an sae60 weight synthetic and not have it thin out. Hopefully minimal LOS or something like it would be needed.


Sounds like your oil is getting alot of fuel dilution maybe?
 
Originally Posted By: GumbyJarvis
Originally Posted By: Gendo
Originally Posted By: Quest
oil burning and oil shearing (in your case) are 2 separate issues.

If you are burning oil to begin with, getting shear-stable oil isn't gonna help.

Your engine is sick..needs mechanical attention that's for sure.

Q.


Missed this post earlier.

I am very much aware of the difference between burning and shearing. What I am trying to say is that anything with VII in it gets sheared down and then because of it being thin gets past the rings and burnt. I've tried STP and it did nothing. Later after adding back in a few quarts I tried No smoke. That worked for about three days. For three days the oil was noticeably thicker and didn't creep down the dipstick hardly at all. After the third day it started burning faster and faster until it was right back where I started. Right now I've got LOS in there and its seems to be holding, but its only been two days. We'll see how things go. I was hoping I could just put in like an sae60 weight synthetic and not have it thin out. Hopefully minimal LOS or something like it would be needed.


Sounds like your oil is getting alot of fuel dilution maybe?


If thats the case shouldn't it smell like gasoline? I smell it most times I check it and it doesn't smell like gas to me.
 
Your rings may need some cleaning- try some Amsoil Power Foam.
You could also try flushing with Amsoil Flush.
I also don't think any of the oils above can shear in so little miles.

You might get a break on your wallet if you get the Lucas Oil Stabilizer by the gallon. I'm not a big fan of it but I have to admit that it does stop oil consumption in old engines.

Lucas also makes some cheap and thick motorcycle oils. Try any 50 or 60.

Keep it on mineral or esters in case your valve stems are dried up. I used ATP AT-205 rubber swell additive and worked well. You can do a compression test and figure out where the problem is.

You might want to get "Cataclean Engine and Catalytic Converter Treatment" from Amazon when your problem settles down.
 
Originally Posted By: tudorart
Your rings may need some cleaning- try some Amsoil Power Foam.

You can do a compression test and figure out where the problem is.



+1

Try kreen, if possible.
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
So how do you know it is shearing?

Are you running used oil analysis/tests every few days?


I have no proof other than the oil becoming noticeably thinner and not smelling of gas. I'm not going to run UOA's on this peice of [censored] beater. Lol


Anything with VII's doesn't last long. Hence my desire for a synthetic.
 
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